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Old 05-03-2011, 11:23 PM   #1
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2002 CR-V toad?

Anyone towing a 2002 CR-V, and if so, anything to share about "do's and don'ts" ? I've read somewhere that there may be an 02' model and a 2002 1/2.

While I'm typing, any thoughts on brake preferences between brake buddy and SMI Duo?... Or other strong favorites / preferences to share?

Thanks for sharing
Joopy
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Old 05-03-2011, 11:31 PM   #2
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I had a brake box and when it died I had the SMI Duo installed. Wish I had installed the SMI originally. It is so easy to use, just plug in the lights, hook up the break-a-way cable, and toggle on. Most of the time I forget to turn the toggle off when I disconnect, it apparently doesn't matter.
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Old 05-04-2011, 12:38 AM   #3
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I have towed a 2003 for 50,000 miles and I love it. I use a Roadmaster baseplate which was fairly easy to install along with a Stowmaster tow bar. I wired the tailights to seperate bulbs that I installed in the taillights. That was the easiest way to go. I have not used a toad brake system which is not advisable.
The only reason I haven't used a supplemental brake system is because my coach is fairly light and has air brakes.
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Old 05-04-2011, 01:58 AM   #4
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The SMI DUO is drop-dead simple, totally out of the way, and works great. We also added bulbs to the rear light cavity, as that keeps you from having to fuss with the auto electrics, except making one small clip connection to the brake light switch wire under the dash. We also added a hot wire from the coach to the auto battery to not have to fuss with fuses. Some CRV models say take a particular fuse out, or you run into battery drain problems.
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Old 05-04-2011, 09:05 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J&SW
The SMI DUO is drop-dead simple, totally out of the way, and works great. We also added bulbs to the rear light cavity, as that keeps you from having to fuss with the auto electrics, except making one small clip connection to the brake light switch wire under the dash. We also added a hot wire from the coach to the auto battery to not have to fuss with fuses. Some CRV models say take a particular fuse out, or you run into battery drain problems.
Thanks for the responses. I'm leaning towards the SMI Duo after speaking with the company today and clarifying a few questions. Sounds like adding bulbs to the existing cavity is the ticket. Do the bulbs do both brake a turn signal?
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Old 05-05-2011, 01:45 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jupiter View Post
Thanks for the responses. I'm leaning towards the SMI Duo after speaking with the company today and clarifying a few questions. Sounds like adding bulbs to the existing cavity is the ticket. Do the bulbs do both brake a turn signal?
Yep.
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Old 08-23-2011, 12:14 PM   #7
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We have towed our 2005 CRV about 9000 Mi with our previous Winnebago Journey DL 2003, our son about 8000 mi with his 34' Class C Diesel and 400 mi with our new 2011 Itasca Navion. Brake systems are recommended but we did not install. Tow gear is Blue OX and I installed base plate myself, not an exact fit; requiring a drill as I recall.
Hope that helps.
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Old 08-23-2011, 08:10 PM   #8
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'03 w/Ready Brake. All do's, no don'ts....
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Old 08-24-2011, 12:36 PM   #9
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I am using a "Brakebuddy" system. Works fine an only issue we have had is the power plug has got mashed twice (by accident). You need a hi quality replacement plug, from experience do not go cheap, I now go direcly to BB for a replacement plug.

O.K. most states REQUIRE all towed vehicles to have in use while towing a supplemental brake system. If the towed vehicle ever breaks away it should come to a stop using the supplemental system. Would just hate to see Chucks CRV rolling down the road all by its lonesome ...LoL!

Ever do a panic stop the the RV...they do not slow down very quickly and adding a towed vehicle to the back end ...well that adds more time on to a full stop. Having a supplemental system on your towed vehicle will aid in slowing down the RV under a panic stop.
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Old 08-24-2011, 01:15 PM   #10
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[QUOTE=Stevegd007;939019]
O.K. most states REQUIRE all towed vehicles to have in use while towing a supplemental brake system. If the towed vehicle ever breaks away it should come to a stop using the supplemental system. Would just hate to see Chucks CRV rolling down the road all by its lonesome ...LoL!

You and me both. Not to worry, I've got that sucker chained up so good that if it does get loose it will have the whole back of my Motorhome with it.
As far as supplemental brake systems go, that new one from Roadmaster looks very good . The only problem I see is that the brake lights activate the toad brake system and when I have the exhaust brake on (all the time ) the brake lights come on when I lift my foot off the accelerator which would activate the toad brakes. Not good !
90,000 miles and I'm still thinking about a toad brake system, so thats good !!
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Old 08-24-2011, 02:24 PM   #11
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Regarding lights for your toad. Let me give a different perspective on the subject. I know there are a number of different opinions and schools of thought regarding mounting separate lights in the toad tail light lens modules or using diodes with the existing lights. Some of this centers around warranty concerns or concerns about creating electrical problems with the vehicle if the lighting is not kept separate, or simply for simplicity of installation. For this everyone has to make there own decision. I chose to use diodes and the existing lights. We have a 2004 CR-V for a toad. I wanted the toad lighting to mirror or display the exact lighting functions when towed as displayed when driven, and I didn't like the idea of drilling into the taillight modules and attempting to mount three separate lights in each unit (turn, brake & tail), or two, if you go with a 'combined' brake turn signal lighting configuration for the toad. There is room in each light module for the diodes and it made a very neat installation that has worked well with no electrical problems. This configuration in our case displays amber turn signal on both the MH and the toad. Either way you have to modify either the lenses (drill and add light sockets) or the wiring by cutting the wiring and adding diodes. My choice for the reasons noted above was to cut the wires.

If you are planning on doing the wiring yourself here is some information which might help with the installation. The two main questions for me when tackling the wiring was where to run the wires and how to get through the firewall with the wiring! Here is what I found and did which may help point you in the right direction.

Regarding getting the wiring from the front of the toad to the rear lights there are several options. I wanted as clean and neat an installation as possible and chose to locate and follow the existing wiring run. I did not want to run wiring outside underneath the vehicle, and I didn't want to drill any new holes in panels, framework or firewall. On our '04 CR-V the wiring loom runs in a channel or wire race along both the left and right side of the vehicle accessible from the interior of the vehicle by removing the edge molding and lifting up the carpet. I ran the wiring on the left side (driver's side) of the vehicle which gave a direct route to the point in the firewall where you can access the engine compartment.

At this point the wiring loom goes through the firewall through a large rubber grommet or boot just behind the gas pedal. It is not very obvious. If they haven't changed this arrangement through the model years this 'through point' is behind a molded plastic 'foot rest' under the carpet behind the gas pedal. Remove this molded plastic piece and the rubber boot is on the firewall near the top of this location with the wire loom running through it. From there it is a matter of neatly routing the wiring to the front of the vehicle through the engine compartment. You come through the firewall left of center and so the most logical route was to the left side behind the wheel well to the grill location to the plug mount incorporated in the Roadmaster base plate installed earlier.
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