2006 Wrangler Supplemental Braking System

[studesrus]

Originally Posted by AKIQPilot

Ok, I'm trying to decide which Toad Braking System I should buy. I know I want a permanently mounted system. My coach is a 2006 Adventurer Gasser with a Prodigy Trailer Brake controller, not that the brake controller makes any difference. Toad is a 2006 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited.

I've read and read and read and I think I've narrowed it down to the Invisibrake. There are typically a couple of threads on the first page of this forum every day mentioning the Invisibrake.

The four systems that seemed to be most prevalent are:

Stay N Play Duo
Pros:
* Apperas to be an Easy Install
* Progressive
* Almost everything is under the hood and high up

Cons:
*Bulky air cylinder attached to the brake pedal
*Funky adjuster box in Toad cab to adjust and turn on and off.
*Phony activation light mounted to the toad mirror. Can be wired to the Moho dash

US Gear Unified Tow Brake TV1000K
Pros:
* Cool remote control to mount inside the Moho cab
* Progressive and adjustable from the Moho cab
* Seems to function well
* Brake Test feature

Cons:
* Fairly complex
* Multiple components to mount inside the cab and in the engine compartment.

Brake Buddy Stealth
Pros:
* Good Price
* Trailer Brake Controller included
* Progressive Braking
* Brake Test feature
* More versatile mounting of main unit
* Nothing in the cab to interfere with the brake pedal when not being toad

Cons:
* Funky proprietary umbilical cord
* A little complex to install
* Extra components under the hood
* Lots of hose clamps that probably aren't necessary


Invisibrake 8700
Pros:
* Good Price
* All in one unit
* Simple installation
* Visible and Audible feedback in Moho cab
* Adjustable from the cab of toad
* Nothing in the cab to interfere with the brake pedal when not being toad

Cons:
* Not Progressive
* May need an off switch when not being toad.
* A little bulky under the driver seat


I know this subject has been beat to death as I have read most every thread posted in the last 3 months concerning toad brake systems.

What am I missing about the Invisibrake. What makes it less desirable than the other three besides not having progressive breaking?

What other non portable toad braking system is out there that I completely overlooked?

Thanks for your time.

:you should look at the RVi version 3 brake system probably the best system on the market right now. We saw it for the first time in the Motor Home Magazine December 2017 page 37.
stude

[bftownes]

Been towing cars behind motorhomes for over 30 years and never had a supplemental braking system. Nothing but problems.

[Sbrownstein]

Originally Posted by bftownes

Been towing cars behind motorhomes for over 30 years and never had a supplemental braking system. Nothing but problems.

Well, I have driven without one on occasion, when my Blue OX was dying, but most states require one for toads or trailers over a specific weight. There is also the issue of "break away" brakes in most states as well.

Agree...they are nothing but problems.

[Bob1340]

I have two Jeep toads, a 2017 JKRU and 2006 LJRU. I have only towed the 2017 so far. I got the NSA Ready Brute. Simplicity. I got an extra cable setup and break away setup for the LJ, just ain't hooked it up yet.



For electrical I went simple as well. I got the RoadMaster bulb sockets and put them in my brake light housings. Simple 7 pin to 4 pin coiled cable. Only draw on the Jeep battery is when the brakes are actively applied. With the NSA that is only while the Toad is pushing on the hitch. If you are sitting at a stop light the Toad brakes are not on even if you have the MH brake pressed in. The only wiring I had to do that connects into the Jeep is the CoachLink brake monitor. This sends a wireless signal to a display on my dash.

Works fantastic in my opinion. I still need to figure out what adapters I need to hook the NSA tow bar to my 3/4" thick D ring tabs on my LJ bumper.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by bftownes

Been towing cars behind motorhomes for over 30 years and never had a supplemental braking system. Nothing but problems.

Well bft,
Lots of folks do a lot of things that aren't necessarily right or in fact are wrong for a long time and get away with it but, that doesn't make it legal. In our older Jeeping group, we (about 10 families) did it for years, (towed all our Jeeps without any auxiliary braking) for years and years and got away with it. And many folks would still do it if it wasn't for lawyers. But, due to the "liability" thing that's prevailed in so much of our lives in the last 20-30 years, we simply just abide by the "law" and make things work.

As for "Nothing but problems", well, not really. There are some systems that are considerably less problem prone than others. Mainly they are the mechanical ones. M & G, Air Force One and Ready Brute and Ready Brake a few to name here. There is no electrical connections to them at all, sans a trigger for a brake light on the Ready Brute and Brake.

To me, keeping electricity away from an auxiliary braking system is a key to making them reliable with less to go wrong. I'll catch flack for that but, no big deal. I ran the Ready Brake for years and years and didn't have any "problems" at all with it, 'till I wore it out, several years later. ANYTHING wears out after a while.

The M & G system to me, if by far, the top of the line, for less moving parts, less to NO obtrusive items INSIDE the vehicle, no electronics, no battery run down situations, NO conflicting toad brake light signals with coach turn signals, and more. And, it's totally proportional. "nothing but problems", well, none in my book.
Scott

[Bob1340]

If you go with the NSA Ready Brute Elite there is something to basically ignore and something to add. It comes with an LED light you can mount on the MH dash that will indicate when the brake lever on the hitch is activated. But that does not indicate the Toad brake is activated. I did not use this. A great add on modification for these NSA should adopt as standard is a turnbuckle for the cable. So easy to fine tune the cable.
Also on the NSA kit, any cable that has the vinyl covering on it needs to be stripped anywhere you clamp it. You don’t want that covering to slip in the clamp.

BTW for the brake light indicator I use the Demco Coach Link. Pricey but works great. As you pull to a stop at an intersection etc you’ll see the lights on. Once stopped it’ll go off as there is no longer inertia at the brake lever. But with the Roadmaster in Jeep tail light housing your Jeep brake lights are still on as long as the MH brake lights are on. I’d guess you could tow the Jeep for a long time before the battery would go down with this system.
And remember, on an ‘06 model wrangler you need to defeat the steering wheel lock mechanism or leave the key in.

[Sbrownstein]

OK, getting ready to install my Invisibrake controller for my 4500 pound Enclave. Doing a slightly different electrical install to avoid any errant braking signals, but that is not my issue here.

There is a tremendous variety of brake controllers for autos and RVs that drive electric brakes on trailers from 1000 pounds to 10,000 pounds. They have all kinds of fancy progressive control, inertial detectors, displays, etc., as well as a direct electrical connection to the towed vehicle by sending a variable voltage down the 7 way to control the electric trailer brakes. Most cost less than $100!

What is so special about a TOAD? Why doesn't someone make a brake controller for a TOAD that receives the brake controller signal voltage and applies pressure to the TOAD's brake pedal that is proportional to the signal voltage? I am tempted to install the Invisibrake in just that way, just by routing the brake pedal signal in the controller socket to the brake wire in the same socket, down the 7 way and connect it to both sides of the Invisibrake's brake light sense leads. The Invisibrake has its own compressor and vacuum pump to manage the TOAD's braking system and the breakaway will work in the event of a towbar failure.

The Invisibrake has progressive braking all by itself and will raise the pressure as the brake signal remains for a longer time.

Why is this so hard?

[pobstlmo]

Lets do the Math, a Jeep Unlimited weighs 7k and your MH weighs 25k, what are you worried about that you need brakes for?

A pick-up truck, 6K pulling a trailer 10k, needs trailer brakes because the trailer is heavier than the pulling vehicle.
I really don't understand this "Toad needs brakes" thing, it seems to me as a way for someone to make money on needless equipment.
Enlighten me.

[Sbrownstein]

Originally Posted by pobstlmo

...Enlighten me.

I always thought some additional wear and tear on the coach brakes, but, unfortunately, the real people who need enlightenment are the states and provinces that require them on TOADS, and, when running in those states, unfortunately your insurance company,

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by pobstlmo

Lets do the Math, a Jeep Unlimited weighs 7k and your MH weighs 25k, what are you worried about that you need brakes for?

A pick-up truck, 6K pulling a trailer 10k, needs trailer brakes because the trailer is heavier than the pulling vehicle.
I really don't understand this "Toad needs brakes" thing, it seems to me as a way for someone to make money on needless equipment.
Enlighten me.

Whooollllly Mollllley Batman, did you say SEVEN THOUSAND POUNDS for a Jeep Unlimited????? Wow, either you've got a SERIOUS amount of aftermarket parts added or, you've put water in the tires to keep traction. Even the Dinghy towing Guide, (which I rarely believe anyways) says a 2013 Unlimited comes in at 4075 lbs. Man, 7K in weight, for a Jeep, wow.
Scott

[Bob1340]

I need to weigh my 2017 JKRU with the hard top. Mine would be the heaviest due to the Rubicon stuff, axles, bigger tires, sway bar disconnect etc, and hard top. Listed curb weight of this runs 4521. I would guess some of the modified units, especially those that add a bunch of heavy steel stuff, can run over 5000 lbs. They are heavy jeeps. My 2006 LJ Rubicon with hard top has a listed curb weight of 3700 lbs. Dang near 1/2 ton lighter.

[AKIQPilot]

I weighed my 2006 LJ Rubicon on 2 different scales this week. Both scales are calibrated quarterly. Half tank of fuel, Smittybilt steel front and rear bumpers, Warn 9.5ti winch, steel rock rails, steel body armor, 32” tires on 17” wheels.

4200lbs exactly.

I am fairly happy with that weight.

PS. I have no doubt that either of my Winnebagos would stop the toad with no problems but that is beside the point. Motorhomes are already at a huge disadvantage compared to a general purpose vehicle as far as stopping distance goes. And additional weight just increases that disadvantage and makes emergency stops more dangerous.

PPS. My 2001 XJ with 1tons, 44” AG tires, lockers, long arm links, hyd steering, steel bumpers, winch, roof rack, handy man, shovel, axe, complete tool box, huge bag of recovery gear, huge bag of survival gear, huge bag of McGyver gear, etc etc weighs 4985lbs.

I can not imagine a JKU weighing anywhere close to 7000 lbs unless it has an LS, Rockwells, Atlas, planetaries, 2 winches and 56” tires.

[pobstlmo]

Oops, I was not serious about the weight of the jeep I was just stating it was Way Less than the Motor home, OK so now I realize that generality is a no no and I need to be Exact on my Examples.

Sorry.
I did not know States or my Insurance Company required brakes on Toads.

I wonder how much of a Kick back the Insurance Companies are getting from the Surge Brake Manufacture's?

[paulhuyck]

I have been towing a toad for 10 years and well over 100,000 miles. I have never had to make a panic stop or been involved in an accident. About a year ago after reading about all the states with laws regarding supplemental braking systems that I would buy and install the Readybrake system. The part of the installation that took the most time was the wiring from the car to the dash light that lets you know when the Readybrake is engaged as I wanted to be sure that the wiring would not get cut or chaffed (lots of wire ties). Crawling around under the motorhome is not so pleasant, but it all works perfectly.

The main reason for installing the supplemental system was to comply with the law. I did not want to be involved in an accident that was not my fault and be cited for not having a supplemental system. I am sure that in a panic situation that the Readybrake will work as stated although I have never had to put it to the test.