2006 Wrangler Unlimited

[Allentc2]

Found one in my neck of the woods, going to see it after work. I've read many many posts saying what great toads they make.

My question...does it matter if it's an auto or a stick? From my reading, they both sound easy peasy to tow, but I want to make sure I didn't get my signals crossed. LOL

[bob91yj]

I own an '05 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, ours is an automatic, flat towing is a piece of cake.
Transmission in park and transfer case in neutral.

[swampdog2]

They are perfect either way std or auto just towed my 2016 auto 2200
miles without a problem .

[vsheetz]

Manual or automatic - both equally easy. I have a 05' TJ Rubi - with LJ envy. (-:

[Bob1340]

I'm a Jeep guy and I know things!
The LJ's were only built 3 years.

2004 only automatic available in the LJ.
2005-2006 you could get them in the Rubicon flavor.

2005-2006 models (all models with the 4.0 engine) had issues with their Oil Pump Drive Assembles (OPDA) so if you have one of these you need to school yourself.

All these models have a steering wheel lock which can be defeated fairly easy if you wish to tow it without the key in.

I have a 2006 LJ Rubicon in yellow.

[hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by swampdog

They are perfect either way std or auto just towed my 2016 auto 2200
miles without a problem .

2016 (JKU) and 2006 (LJ) are completely different vehicle designs but either one makes a great toad regardless of transmission type.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by Allentc2

Found one in my neck of the woods, going to see it after work. I've read many many posts saying what great toads they make.

My question...does it matter if it's an auto or a stick? From my reading, they both sound easy peasy to tow, but I want to make sure I didn't get my signals crossed. LOL

Allen,
I too have been around, modified, towed, and owned 9 different Jeeps in over a 35 year + period. The TJ model you're going to look at is great for all of the Jeeping needs. Towing them is about as easy as it gets. No, no matter if it's a stick or an auto. I preferably like autos myself. Been shifting my whole life and well, I'm done. Autos all the way for us. Anyway, if and when you get into the setup for getting it ready to tow, here's a couple of items.

1. If it doesn't have one already, get an aftermarket front bumper. There's a zillion of them out there made by many, many quality companies. Don't get stuck on any particular brand. The one I have on our present '15 JKUR is a Smittybilt XRC Mod. It, like many, many aftermarket bumpers have what's called "recovery tabs" welded on the front of them.

They are normally about an inch thick and have either 1" holes in them or 7/8" holes. You CAN and, we and many, many others in the Jeep world use those recovery tabs for towing by simply purchasing some tow bar adapters that adapt your present tow bar, to be used on those recovery tabs. Then, when that's done, you get D-handle pins from Tractor supply for the pins to couple the tow bar adapters to the tabs. The D-handle makes for really easy removal when disconnecting from the coach.

2. When setting up your wiring to toad lights, I've done it a zillion times and, I'm not one that runs and hides when someone mentions using the stock tail lights and bulbs for toad lights. I'd done it that EXACT way for years and years not one Jeep has ever gone up in smoke because I tied into the factory wiring. In fact, you can do yours for oh, about $4.00 total when using regular 3-4 amp diodes from Radio Shack, (if you still have one in your area). If not, you can get them from a number of electrical supply outlets. It's an easy job to do and your tail lights on your Jeep will act THE SAME EXACT WAY when towing it, as they do when driving it.

3. Yes, you can go through what it takes to disarm the key/steering lock but, in a TJ model, when you turn the key one click from insertion, all you do is UNLOCK the steering! You don't energize ANYTHING so, there is no electrical drain on any of the Jeeps electrical systems or battery. And therefore, there is no need for a toad battery charger install either.

4. As for brakes, well, there's a number of ways to go here. One of the cheapest and very dependable ones is the Ready Brake cable operated surge brake systems. It's bigger brother, the Ready Brute, is a combo tow bar AND brake system, all in one. If you're running a diesel coach, it will have air brakes.

In my personal opinion, the M & G brake system for the TJ is the best you can use. With that system, there is ZERO articles INSIDE the jeep, nothing, zilch, NADA!! The unit is installed between the power brake unit and the master cylinder and is a one time install. From that point on, all you do it hook up a small, curly que air hose between the coach and your Jeep, DONE.


Anyway, hope some of this info helps. Good luck with your new toy.
Scott

[Bobbat]

Check on line with Remco Industries.com, trailer parts. They have your answers and what you need to put on your TOAD. Typically any wrangler is capable of flat tow.

[AKIQPilot]

Once again, Fire Up nailed it perfectly. This past spring I ran across a 2006 TJU Rubicon Automatic. It has just over 80,000 miles on it and in near perfect condition. It already had a Smittybilt XCR bumper on the front. I toiled for a couple of months trying to decide which braking system to install. In the end I decided on the Ready Brake. I think I read every single toad brake related thread for the last year. One common theme, backed up by over 60 reviews on Amazon was: the Ready Brake and Ready Brute Elite is loved or very well liked by everyone who has ever tried them. Its simple to install and easily one of the most progressive braking systems available. On top of all the positive reviews is the cost. I bought my Ready Brake for $500 brand new with the break away system, $400 without. Install took an hour or less.

I decided on a Hopkins 56202 toad brake wiring system isolator. It is plug and play on the Jeep TJ. It too works flawlessly. It was $40 on Amazon so a little more expensive than diodes but simple to install. Maybe 30 minutes and that included drilling the hole for the female umbilical cord plug.

I had found a used Blue Ox towbar so i already had the towbar. If I were to do it over again I would buy a Ready Brute Elite even if I was given a tow bar from a different manufacturer. The RBE is a very good system. If you have a gas coach the RBE is one of the best systems available. If you have a DP with air brakes there are other systems that would edge out the RBE.

We are currently in the Redwood National Park headed down to our motorhome. We’re taking the long way to Vegas where we store the coach. We started in Tacoma and will stop in San Diego before heading to LV to meet up with our Adventurer.

A few pics of my set up.

[Allentc2]

The LJ I went to look at had a "constant on" engine check light (buddy says it's probably the oxygen sensor) and an inoperative fuel gauge. LOL Waiting to see if the dealership mechanics will at least run a check to narrow down the cause. I also found an '04 TJ Rubicon that is directly in my path on my way to Hershey tomorrow, so I'll be checking it out. Lastly, a fella in PA has an LJ I had a coworker look at...he said he'd buy it in a heartbeat if he were looking for one. So I really want to see it as well.

And I'll most likely be towing it using the Ready Brute behind a 2019 Bay Star that I will be ordering. .

[AKIQPilot]

Now that I finally own an LJ i would pay a premium for a decent LJ over a TJ in the same condition and miles. The extra room behind the back seat is huge. Full sized luggage or a medium/large cooler will fit back there easily. A months worth of groceries fit back there. Medium sized dog kennel will fit back there. In addition to the extra room behind the rear seat there is also 3” of additional legroom for back seat passengers.

LJ’s seem to be pretty spendy. I was blown away by how much people are asking for them in the southwest. I paid $15k for mine in Alaska. Sold $1500 worth of accessories off it that I didnt need and spent $1000 on brand new take off 2017 Rubi tires and wheels. My LJ had the oil pump shaft fail in 2017. Destroyed the motor. Dealer installed a complete factory new long block with new exhaust manifold, new exhaust to the tail pipe,new injectors, new throttle body, new alternator, waterpump, etc, etc. Cost the guy I bought it from $5500 out the door.

I really wanted a JKU but had to settle for an LJ. So far I really like the LJ.

[FIRE UP]

Tom,
That's one smart looking Jeep there Partner. You should get many miles and a lot of fun with that one. You say you got Rubi take-off tires and wheels? Those are Mud terrains, correct? Not a fan of those 'cause they get real noisy after a short bit but, if they suit you, then that's what's important. Sounds like you've got the whole system down for prep for towing and all that. That's great. Have a good time with that toy.
Scott

[AKIQPilot]

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

Tom,

That's one smart looking Jeep there Partner. You should get many miles and a lot of fun with that one. You say you got Rubi take-off tires and wheels? Those are Mud terrains, correct? Not a fan of those 'cause they get real noisy after a short bit but, if they suit you, then that's what's important. Sounds like you've got the whole system down for prep for towing and all that. That's great. Have a good time with that toy.

Scott

Thanks Scott

Yep, Mud Terrains. Not my first choice but they had zero miles on them, like 7 miles on the odometer of the rig they came off of. They are a bit noisy but far less than I expected. They are relatively narrow so they dont wander around on rutted roads at all. They are about 2” taller overall than the stock tires so the speedo is off by 3mph at 60 but that should be an easy fix if I decide to fix it.

In a year or two when the mud terrains start to show some wear I will replace them with KO2’s or some Nittos or some other slightly quieter but more rock friendly tire. I haven’t done the research yet to know which tire to get.

We are gonna play around in the southwest with this thing. While far from the perfect rock rig it should do ok as a dual purpose vehicle. A lot of grocery getting and a little off roading.

[Bob1340]

I paid in October 2005 $25,243.00 OTD for my yellow LJR. Since then I have managed to get 27,500 miles on it. It's a toy. I bet it is worth close to $22K as is.

They built so few of these in the Rubicon that only 840 Yellow units were built!