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Old 10-14-2012, 08:22 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlovitt

Camping World used Roadmaster diode kit on my 2012 Explorer (LED tail lights). Maybe they wired it incorrectly but it eventually "killed" my BCM and the car wouldn't start at all. Cost CW about $1600 to restore the car to factory. Now we are trying to figure out what to do next.
dlovitt, sorry to hear about your experience with diodes but thanks for sharing. Your situation answers the question asked earlier in my thread, "why ever would I not want to use diodes"? I take it that your tail light housings have no room for another bulb? If not, you might check out the LED style as they take less room and require a 9/16" hole vs 1" for standard bulb kit. I ordered the standard bulb kit by Roadmaster from the etrailer web site based on feedback from an actual 2012 Focus owner.
Good luck...
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:13 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Rkh View Post
dlovitt, sorry to hear about your experience with diodes but thanks for sharing. Your situation answers the question asked earlier in my thread, "why ever would I not want to use diodes"? I take it that your tail light housings have no room for another bulb? If not, you might check out the LED style as they take less room and require a 9/16" hole vs 1" for standard bulb kit. I ordered the standard bulb kit by Roadmaster from the etrailer web site based on feedback from an actual 2012 Focus owner.
Good luck...
i am taking back to CW Tuesday and will pass along your suggestion. Thanks.
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:03 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by mrt_1111
I own a 2012 ford focus hatch back. I just finished putting in the regular bulb kit. I routed the wire along the passenger side under the molding and along the door frame (the rubber door seal pull off). It was easy to do. The hardest part is getting through the fire wall. There is a large rubber grommet. I used a coat hanger and pushed it along the side of the grommet, attached it to a single wire and pulled it back through. I had to do one wire a time.

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Hey MRT, is the grommet you speak of the one where the steering shaft passes through to the engine compartment?
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:25 PM   #18
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Ugggggh! The boot on the engine side of the firewall for the steering column is much larger than the one on the inside on the floorboard. I see no way to push any wires through without damaging or puncturing the engine side boot. Not gonna do that. I think it's going to be much easier to simply drill a 3/8" hole in the firewall, install a rubber grommet and silicone. I've already got a hole drilled through the firewall behind the brake where the readybrake cable runs so I can pick a spot near it..
Of course, all this work is to save a buck by not taking toad to the shop.
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:38 PM   #19
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Ugggggh! The boot on the engine side of the firewall for the steering column is much larger than the one on the inside on the floorboard. I see no way to push any wires through without damaging or puncturing the engine side boot. Not gonna do that. I think it's going to be much easier to simply drill a 3/8" hole in the firewall, install a rubber grommet and silicone. I've already got a hole drilled through the firewall behind the brake where the readybrake cable runs so I can pick a spot near it..
Of course, all this work is to save a buck by not taking toad to the shop.
True but you'll know what was done and where....
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:08 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Muddypaws
I was able to wire up two different cars (both hondas) by running the wire into the passenger compartment, then under the carpet near the kick panels to the rear, and through existing holes to the light sockets.

You probably have a couple of grommets in the firewall that aren't too crowded to get an additional 4 wires through. You might even find find one or more that are unused. I've worked on several Fords and have never had a problem finding a way in.
Hey Muddypaws, you are from my old stompin grounds, SJ Ca...Born and raised there long ago.
As for available entry points through the firewall, I'll be darned if I can find one..I found the steering column and hood latch entry points but those holes are tighter than ole Dicks hat band. I remember the days when you could literally sit on top the fender well under the hood of your car and have access to any part of the engine and firewall. These new cars seem to be overcrowded in there with multiple layers of thick foil insulation. No room for this much older and less flexible body.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:37 AM   #21
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We have a 2012 Focus, went with regular bulb kit, works just fine. The only problem you may encounter is when you drill the hole in the lens housing a lot of it may end up inside! The only way that worked to remove all the filings was to rinse the housing with water and let it dry before reassembly. Air, vacuum did not do it, nor did altering the speed the hole was drilled at. There seemed to be a lot of static build up that drew the stuff well into the lens, even drilling from the underside to keep material from falling in did little to help.


Attachment 27593


The end result however looks just fine!
Any tips on removing connectors from light assembly.Looked at mine will a screw driver disconnect the connector.
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:13 AM   #22
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Please excuse my ignorance. I've been following this thread, in fact my 2012 Focus is even the same color as doghauler,s. The lights on my MH are in full view, so why would I need lights to be hooked up on my toad. Is there a law about this I don't know about?
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:46 AM   #23
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Please excuse my ignorance. I've been following this thread, in fact my 2012 Focus is even the same color as doghauler,s. The lights on my MH are in full view, so why would I need lights to be hooked up on my toad. Is there a law about this I don't know about?
Dave, it's a law in my state. I also know its a law in Alabama, (towed vehicle requires lights) etc..I also makes me feel safer especially at night where somebody may have depth perception issues if all they see is my Motorhome lights..
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:49 PM   #24
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Well, since I will be traveling, I will do it to comply with laws no matter where I am at. What confuse me, is there is a 4 pin connector by my motor home hitch. I just figured that could be plugged in somewhere and presto... The lights would work. Now everyone is talking a about putting in extra lights and diodes. I sure don't want to be modifying the wiring harness in my car.
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:17 PM   #25
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Well, since I will be traveling, I will do it to comply with laws no matter where I am at. What confuse me, is there is a 4 pin connector by my motor home hitch. I just figured that could be plugged in somewhere and presto... The lights would work. Now everyone is talking a about putting in extra lights and diodes. I sure don't want to be modifying the wiring harness in my car.
davedeb, etrailer.com is a good place to get the needed hardware if you are a DYIer...Unfortunately, the Focus does not have a simple solution like a pre-wired connection under the hood for us.

http://www.etrailer.com/tbwiring-201...automatic+only

This link shows a diode kit and a kit that uses separate bulbs. The diode kit allows you to splice into your existing wiring. The diodes are used to prevent the backward flow of current thus preventing major damage to logic boards. I don't trust them and wont use them.
I purchased the basic light kit that includes separate bulbs and wiring. This works well on the 2012 Focus because there is plenty of room to install an additional bulb in each lens. Route your wiring under carpet and running board, through firewall and store in engine compartment until you need to plug into,motorhome.
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:25 AM   #26
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Hallman,
I did not use the connector at all, just removed the three bulbs (half turn) as they needed to be removed to clear the debris out anyway.
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:29 AM   #27
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Forgive me, I meant Hillman, not Hallman iPad auto corrected me in wrong direction again!
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:30 PM   #28
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Here is a video I found my help on wire routinghttp://www.etrailer.com/t1-2012_Ford_...
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