2012 Honda CRV Turn signal wiring

[VickersC]

I have been trying to find any info on wiring connections on a CRV Honda.
Honda had been wired for the 4 pin connector. I wired to 6 pin connector to same pinout as 4 Pin connector. Left Signal does not work. Right signal works OK. But when I turn lights on, both sides (left/Right) blinks at same time.
Diodes have been installed. What do I need to do to get proper turn signals right without changing everything out?
Note: Reason for cable is to charge battery while towing.

C Vickers
07 Dolphin LX, Towing 2012 CRV Honda
Cable: 7 pin to 6 pin round connector

[JCM]

I don't understand your problem. You should use the 4 wires as they were and run an extra wire with a breaker )40Amp or better) to the battery. You could put a breaker on the coach end as well. Worked ok for me but I lately installed a w24 battery. Used an Odyssey baseplate -$10.00) and squeezed the battery in.
Hope that helps.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

VickersC-

Here's a link to a Web page on etrailer to look up the correct pinouts for trailer connectors. Did you wire your 6-pin connector to match the diagrams on that page?

[JCM]

I don't see the need to wire the 6 pin connector - use a 6 pin to 4 pin connector adaptor. I am assuming that the 6 pin is on the back of the rv and the 4 pin is on the car. Then you add an extra plug for the power.

[VickersC]

I am using same wires to signals as the 4 pin cable.
I am using gnd wire to Battery gnd post from connector and + volts pin to a in line diode and a 20 amp fuse for battery charging, that works OK. I will work more on wire out from connector for my signal lights.
Thanks for responding. C Vickers

[VickersC]

I have already changed out to a new 6 pin connector cable. Since this a trickle charge those wires should be OK.
CVickers
07 Dolphin LX
Toad, 2012 CRV Honda

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by VickersC

I have already changed out to a new 6 pin connector cable. Since this a trickle charge those wires should be OK.
CVickers
07 Dolphin LX
Toad, 2012 CRV Honda

VickersC,
First off, when we had an '11 CRV, it had AMBER turn signals and RED running and brake lights. I did the wiring and, setup the lights to work EXACTLY the same when towing it, as they did when driving it. So, my question to you is, do you have AMBER tail lights and RED running and brake lights? Are you setup for the Amber ones to work?

Now, regardless of 4 pin, 6 pin, 7 pin etc. you need to have the appropriate signals from the coach, entering the Honda. And that takes 4 wires.

1. Rt turn/brake
2. Lt turn/brake
3. Tail/marker
4. Ground

Now, if you utilize auxiliary bulbs that have been installed, then I can't help you here. But, if you're using the stock tail lights, Ambers and Reds, then if you look at the drawing I did for the wiring on our CRV, it may help and answer any questions. One thing you'll notice in the drawing. There's what's called a "Tail light converter". This version of the little black box is called the "2 wire to 3 wire" unit. There are other versions but, THIS ONE is the one you need to make all the lights on the back of your CRV, do what they're supposed to do, with proper diode placement that is. That little black box, about the size of half a pack of cigs, converts the incoming signal of "turn/brake" into a separate turn signal wire and brake light wire for each side.

Take a look at the drawing, see what you think. Let me know if I can help.
Scott

[Dutch Star Don]

"VickersC"......I just wired my 2013 CRV about three weeks ago. As Scott stated, the Honda has amber turn signals and red brake lights. If you don't care, you can make the brake lights your turn signals, by wiring them the old fashion way........"left/brake" and "right/brake". If you're anal like Scott and I, you have to use the converter to make the amber lights work and add another pair of diodes to those.

Often, if you're using a braking system that pulls/pushes on the toad's brake pedal, the brake lights of the toad, will wash out (override) the turn signals from your coach. As your turn signal is flashing (using the brake the light bulb) through a diode, your toad is also sending a brake light signal at the same time, which makes your signal go solid. Just something to think about.

[FIRE UP]

[QUOTE=Dutch Star Don;3135947]"VickersC"......I just wired my 2013 CRV about three weeks ago. As Scott stated, the Honda has amber turn signals and red brake lights. If you don't care, you can make the brake lights your turn signals, by wiring them the old fashion way........"left/brake" and "right/brake". If you're anal like Scott and I, you have to use the converter to make the amber lights work and add another pair of diodes to those.

Often, if you're using a braking system that pulls/pushes on the toad's brake pedal, the brake lights of the toad, will wash out (override) the turn signals from your coach. As your turn signal is flashing (using the brake the light bulb) through a diode, your toad is also sending a brake light signal at the same time, which makes your signal go solid. Just something to think about.[/QUOTE]


Don,

Very true if:

Your toad utilizes only a two filament system like, ALL RED lights and no ambers. And/ Or,

If your toad's brake pedal actually activates the brake lights, even WITH THE IGNITION OFF and, you have a toad braking system attached.


On one of our present toads, an '11 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4, it does NOT activate the brake lights when the trucks pedal is pushed and the ignition is OFF. So, I used a Ready Brake for a while on that truck without fear of my trucks brake pedal overriding the coaches turn signals.

But, I now use the M & G braking system, on both toads, (we also tow an '03 Jeep Rubicon which DOES activate the brake lights with the pedal pushed and ignition off) which, by virtue of how it works, would not activate the toads brake lights even if they were activated by the toads brake pedal with ignition off.
Scott

[VickersC]

I have been trouble shooting the signal problem. I dropped the 6 pin connector down from the front and connected the cable from RV. I measured the voltage from back side of connector on CRV. No voltage there. its OK at end of cable. I pulled the connector back slightly and low and behold everything works like its suppose to, lights, signals and voltage 13.4V. I need to do a cleaning job on male connector and disconnect female on the cable and see if something fishy there. At least things are working like its suppose to.
Thanks for your response. Do you have PN of the switch box by itself? I see you can order the whole kit, which I do not need, just switch box. Thanks again
CVickers
07 Dolphin, Toad: 2012 Honda CRV

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by VickersC

I have been trouble shooting the signal problem. I dropped the 6 pin connector down from the front and connected the cable from RV. I measured the voltage from back side of connector on CRV. No voltage there. its OK at end of cable. I pulled the connector back slightly and low and behold everything works like its suppose to, lights, signals and voltage 13.4V. I need to do a cleaning job on male connector and disconnect female on the cable and see if something fishy there. At least things are working like its suppose to.
Thanks for your response. Do you have PN of the switch box by itself? I see you can order the whole kit, which I do not need, just switch box. Thanks again
CVickers
07 Dolphin, Toad: 2012 Honda CRV

May I ask, what "Switch box" are you referring to?
Scott

[VickersC]

The Black Box I was talking about is the one shown above in the drawing (2 wire in 3 wire out)
I cleaned pins on both 6 pin connectors. opened up the female on cable, found no trouble in connector. I next used a small blade screwdriver and expanded the gnd male pin a little. All light are working like they are suppose to now. Thanks for all the info from IRV2 family members. I may change to amber signals in the future, Right now I am pleased to lights working.
Thanks, CVickers, 07 Dolphin, Toad: 2012 CRV Honda

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by VickersC

The Black Box I was talking about is the one shown above in the drawing (2 wire in 3 wire out)
I cleaned pins on both 6 pin connectors. opened up the female on cable, found no trouble in connector. I next used a small blade screwdriver and expanded the gnd male pin a little. All light are working like they are suppose to now. Thanks for all the info from IRV2 family members. I may change to amber signals in the future, Right now I am pleased to lights working.
Thanks, CVickers, 07 Dolphin, Toad: 2012 CRV Honda

Aaaah, I understand now. Yep, those Tail light converters have been around for a long time. I've used quite a few of them in the past. It's sure is nice when they "think" for you and make all the lights work as they're supposed to.
Scott