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Old 08-08-2013, 09:16 PM   #1
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2013 CRV where did you put socket/bulb in taillight?

Which cavity in the tail light did everyone use to install the toad wiring kit's socket - bulb in 2012 2013 model CRV?
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:43 AM   #2
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In my 2012 , I used the Diodes. Seem to work well. In my 1999 CR-v I had install the bulbs in the side of the light panel. Tight fit and since the bulb was side ways, I did not think it had as much brightness.
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:29 AM   #3
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Can't use diodes on the 2013. Mine sits directly above, and in the same cavity, as the original brake light.
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:27 AM   #4
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Quote:
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Can't use diodes on the 2013. Mine sits directly above, and in the same cavity, as the original brake light.
I just had the Base Plate and lights done at a Hitch Shop and they used the diode pack that I supplied. Not sure of the details but they did a really nice job on the whole right down to installing the charge line and the connection for the Breakaway Switch which neatly coils up under the drivers side floor mat.
All Hitches by Doctor Hook, Penticton, BC
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:02 AM   #5
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I have a 2013 Honda CRV. The base plate installer also did the wiring and used diodes.
They work fine.
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Old 08-10-2013, 03:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Can't use diodes on the 2013. Mine sits directly above, and in the same cavity, as the original brake light.
Selah,

Did you do the installation yourself? What type of 1" drill did you use? Any unexpected issues with the kit?

I'm poised to drill, but I'm aware of the price of a new tail light assembly if I goon it!

Thanks, and safe travels,

Calypso
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Old 08-10-2013, 05:57 PM   #7
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Selah,

Did you do the installation yourself? What type of 1" drill did you use? Any unexpected issues with the kit?

I'm poised to drill, but I'm aware of the price of a new tail light assembly if I goon it!

Thanks, and safe travels,

Calypso
I drilled the 1" hole in my 2010 using a hole saw, which worked fine until I had to squeeze the bulbous bulb through the hole. I also saw tat you can't use a larger hole saw cuz the supplied metal clips supplied would not hold the bulb socket in, so I also used a silicone to secure it safely.
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:36 AM   #8
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If you haven't done the work yet, Google TowDaddy. It is a light socket compatible, modular diode system that you can install yourself in less than an hour. No cutting, only requires you drill one hole (for a ground wire) and also solves the 2-way to 3-way light issue.

I used the universal kit on my Fit (missed the plug-n-play version by a couple of months) and it took less than an hour to finish it off.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:07 AM   #9
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Calypso, I had Lazy Days do the entire install, plate, wireing, and SMI brakes.
I don't remember where I read that about not using diodes on the 2013 but apparently Lazy Days read the same article. I did not specify what light kit to use that is just what they installed. They also installed the charge line from the coach, no fuses to pull.
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:00 AM   #10
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I use some sealant on my installations to keep the plug in socket from moving around with road vibration. I used permatex rtv black.
Hole saw works well but go slow.
I also use led lights, they run much cooler. The 2010 CRV had clearance problems and with incandescent bulb they melted the plastic lens. The led lights I'm using now were assembled so the led circuit boards were not very secure and I used some thermal epoxy on them so they would not break apart when I twisted them in the socket. Worked well. I may have bought them off ebay, it's been several years so I don't remember. If I remember correctly, I couldn't find any acceptable leds in the stores locally.

I like the separately wired bulb set up better than the diode system.
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:44 AM   #11
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I like the separately wired bulb set up better than the diode system

As do I. Maybe I am overly cautious or just not up on this stuff as I should be, but I won't get into the wiring on anything I tow and take a chance on screwing up the computer or cooking the wiring system.
We use magnetic lights on the Element we are towing now, but will add a parallel tail light setup when the jeep is put into service. (roof of the Jeep is fiberglass and the magnets will not stick to it)
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:46 PM   #12
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Done!

The hole was a piece of cake - hole saw, slow speed, pilot hole first. I had to bend the light fixture prongs out to get a good fit, then finished it with silicone sealant.

Looks good and I expect they will hold up to rough roads.

I too was reluctant to tap into the CR-V wiring harness. If nothing else, I'll bet you can kiss your Honda warranty goodbye if you modify it.

Thanks for everyone's help! Now, on to penetrating the firewall for the breakaway wire.

Calypso
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:47 AM   #13
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The only tap I make into the car system is one on the brake pedal activation circuit. I find the wire that gets energized from depressing the brake pedal and route it to an led on the MH dashboard. Then I know when that brake pedal is depressed in the tow car, and if my brake unit is functioning properly.
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
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The only tap I make into the car system is one on the brake pedal activation circuit. I find the wire that gets energized from depressing the brake pedal and route it to an led on the MH dashboard. Then I know when that brake pedal is depressed in the tow car, and if my brake unit is functioning properly.
X2.
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