2014 Cherokee Toad

[donie]

We have a 2014 Cherokee Limited with the Active Drive II trans and as we speak, it's in the shop getting the tow setup installed.
Got a call from the shop and they said everything is installed except for the brake wiring.
With it having LED wiring is presenting a whole can of worms for the shop but they are figuring it out.

[BobGed]

You might want to get some details as to what they plan on installing. After a lot of research this Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring for Jeep Cherokee 2014 - RM-154 is what I installed in my 2014 Cherokee. There is even an excellent installation video on the same page.

Do not under any circumstances let them try to rig a separate bulb kit.

[Bikinjim]

I just self installed the wiring in my 2015 Cherokee. Used the Roadmaster RM-154 diode kit and used the B instructions as I have the push button ignition. Also, since the Cherokee uses the same light for the brake and turn signal, you also need to install a relay if you use a supplemental brake system. I used the Roadmaster relay. Search for and download Roadmaster's tech service bulletin #144 for the Cherokee to identify the correct wire to cut and connect into on the brake switch. It's really tight under the dash, but I got it done. Works great!

[Buddyry]

Any happy ending stories re: the installation of an invisa brake system on a 2014 Cherokee. We have had nothing but problems and the dealership will be removing it soon. The claim is the brake pedal arm is the culprit???

[Bikinjim]

I don't have any info on the Invisa brake, but would recommend the Ready Brake if you wind up considering another brake system. I now use the Ready Brute Elite tow bar with the integrated Ready Brake and it seems to work well, was an easy install in my Cherokee, and is very easy to hook up to tow. The Cherokee has an existing hole in the firewall that I used to pass the Ready Brake cable through to the brake pedal. The Cherokee has a double firewall that is covered with a vinyl seal on the inside and rubber grommet on the outside. I just removed the vinyl seal and pushed out the grommet. I then used two large washers on either side of the inner firewall hole to anchor the Ready Brake cable housing. Then I routed the cable housing along the driver's side frame rail until it was past the radiator. I made a bracket and attached to the bottom of the metal bumper (in the center), and fixed the cable housing to it. The Ready Brake cable was then inserted into the housing and attached to the Cherokee brake pedal with the included bracket. I did have to buy longer 3" bolts for the bracket due to the design of the Cherokee's brake pedal arm, but it worked out well. Externally, the cable is not obtrusive as only the attachment loop protrudes from one of the lower grill holes. Just a thought for consideration if you decide to change brake systems.

[Bumps]

We have the 2015 Cherokee. Installed the BlueOx diode kit. Though in tight quarters, it was actually a pretty easy install. \ken

Amazon.com: Blue Ox BX8848 4 Diodes Taillight Wiring Kit: Automotive

[donie]

Finally got the rig and Jeep back.
Installed is a RVi brake setup and Road Master vehicle setup to match the All Terrain setup on the MH.
Tested it on the way home from the shop for half hour and it works great.
Now comes the fun part of loading the rig and heading out.

[SuperGewl]

I used the Universal Tow Daddy to hook up the wiring. Works great and very easy to install. My only mistake was letting camping World do it when they installed the base plate setup. I personally would have connected the wires in a different spot than where they did.

[BobGed]

Demco now has a plug-in wiring connector system for the new Cherokees Towed Connectors | Demco Products

[Jetboyblue]

Bikinjim
I am also considering the Ready Brake but have a few concerns. 1 - Routing the cable from the front of the Cherokee to the brake pedal. I have the 6 cyl and the space in the engine compartment between the firewall and the engine (under the brake cylinder) appears to be to tight to get the cable in. Do you have the 6 or 4 cyl? If you have the 6 cyl how did you navigate the cable on the outside going in? (I'm aware of the grommet passing through the firewall behind the brake, it getting access to this point on the outside that concerns me.)
2 - Brake adjustment (or cable adjustment). With the type of brakes on the new Cherokees the fist pump on the brake goes deeper than the 2nd or 3rd pump. How did you set the cable so on the first pump it is not to shallow (No brakes) and the 2nd or 3rd is to much (locking up the jeep brakes). Or did you not find this to be a issue?

Here is my plan on setting up our new 2015 Jeep Cherokee....
TOW BAR - Roadmaster with EZ5 (521447-5) baseplates.

LIGHTS - Considering a wireless setup. With wireless there is no cutting into OEM wires anywhere. I have the Jeep tow package which will let me get power for the wireless receiver on the back of the Jeep at the 7 way connector. Yes this will put a drain on the Jeep battery but we are talking LED wireless, low power drain.

BRAKES - As I mentioned I'd like to use the Ready Brake but am also considering the Blue OX Patriot.

By using wireless lights and the Ready Brake there is no bulkhead wire connector on the front of the Jeep.

Bikinjim, do you have photos of your install? If so I'd like to see them.

[rream]

Originally Posted by BobGed

Demco now has a plug-in wiring connector system for the new Cherokees Towed Connectors | Demco Products

Not really new they installed mine at the Demco factory in Iowa in December 2013

My Jeep was used to engineer the base plates for the Cherokee

[Bikinjim]

Jetboyblue - unfortunately, I didn't take any photos during my install. To get the ready brake and breakaway cables installed on my Trailhawk, I took off the front driver's wheel to get easier access to the engine compartment firewall grommet penetration (supported the car on a jack stand) and to route the ready brake and brake away cables along the driver's side frame rail. Not sure if your car is different as I have read that the Limited has active shutters (mine does not) which may make the install harder for you. Removal of the wheel made access pretty easy on my car. I also did the cable installs when I had the fascia off during the Blue Ox baseplate install which also made the cable routing around the bumper easier. For the ready brake cable termination at the front of the car, I bought a flat piece of steel at Home Depot and fashioned a bracket to attach the nylon cable fitting to the bottom of the bumper. Once the cable housing was routed from the firewall along the frame rail and past the AC condenser, I created an S shape in the housing to insert into the nylon fitting and bracket at the center of the vehicle just below the bumper. The cable eyelet then protrudes outside the grill below the bumper. For lights, I used the Brakemaster RM-154 diode kit and the Brakemaster brake light relay kit to prevent overriding the turn signals when braking. The relay was actually the hardest thing to install due to the close confines of working under the dash. If you decide to go this route, be sure to search for the Roadmaster service bulletin that explains how to install the relay kit on the Cherokee and which wire to cut and use on the brake switch. But I have towed 4 times now and it has all worked flawlessly. My total install time for the baseplate, brake cables, and light wiring was a day and a half, although I did study the installation instructions and searched for user experiences for a couple of days before I decided to order the equipment and planned how I would do everything. The only real trouble I ran into was reinstalling the fascia. I had trouble getting the bottom fascia to fit up properly. After scratching my head for a couple of hours, I figured out that the the Blue Ox safety cables were interfering with the bottom of the fascia. Repositioning the bottom of the cables upward allowed for sufficient room for the fascia bottom to be properly aligned. With regard to adjusting the ready brake cable, I simply followed the NSA instructions to have sufficient slack to prevent brake actuation during turns. I also installed the ready brake light in my motorhome. For the most part it only actuated when braking, however, if descending a grade of 6% or more with the MH downshifted for engine braking, the light does come on indicating some braking taking place with the Cherokee. Hope this helps. I will see if I can get any pictures to help show how I installed the ready brake cables.

[Bikinjim]

Jetboyblue - I failed to mention that my Cherokee Trailhawk is the 6 cylinder model.

[Bikinjim]

showing ready brake cable connector at front of Cherokee Trailhawk (picture is upside down!)



showing the breakaway cable connection and light connection adjacent to baseplate (picture is upside down!)



Ready brake cable, nylon end fitting, and bumper bracket I made.



Ready brake cable routing from bumper to driver's frame rail.



view from driver's side wheel well. Shows mounting of breakaway device (red) and cable to bottom of driver's side frame rail; and ready brake cable housing just below the breakaway device and cable.