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Old 01-20-2014, 01:58 PM   #29
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I have a 2012 Focus Titainium that I've towed from Minnesota to Arizona and also from Minnesota to South Padre Island. I have the Roadmaster Invisibrake installed in the car. I use a disconnect on the positive terminal and have experienced zero problems with one exception. I have to retrain the power windows to resume the one touch mode after reconnecting the battery. I never lose radio station setting or anything else. I've attached photos of what I have installed. The red wires are for the Invisibrake when the disconnect has disconnected the car from the battery so the Invisibrake is still connected. The tail/brake/turn signal lights are plugged into the motorhome when towing. Other than using the positive terminal rather than the Ford suggested negative terminal I follow the rest of the cycle by shifting to neutral with the ignition on prior to disconnecting the battery. I'd guess I've done at least 4,000 miles of towing and the car has suffered zero issues. I did make a slight cut on the battery cover to accommodate the disconnect.
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:44 PM   #30
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Looks good! How do you like your Invisibrake?
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:27 PM   #31
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On my 2012 standard ignition I loose the clock and the windows up and down one touch doesn't work.. Needs to be reset.
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Old 01-21-2014, 06:16 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by hdmoxness View Post
Looks good! How do you like your Invisibrake?
It works great, don't have to mess with anything but hooking up the electrics to the motorhome. Only minus side is it'll be a chore if I ever get a different toad.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:55 AM   #33
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After reading about all the different ways to disconnect the battery, I decided to try something different. I flipped the battery around and replaced the positive cable. 24" with extra lead $9. The negative cable is long enough. No case or cover mods.
Now I can just slip the negative on or off.
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:59 PM   #34
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[QUOTE=hdmoxness;1887230]As a side note, I would like to add that I installed a Blue Ox baseplate, readily available for this car, and I used a BO taillight wiring kit that does not interact in any way with the factory Ford wiring. One hole was drilled in each of the taillight housings for a lamp socket and the flat 4-color wire cable runs forward to the plug at the front grill. No diodes, no splices, no chance of putting 12V into the Ford that could accidentally activate anything in the transmission!


Hello all,
I know this thread is a couple months old , but I just joined this forum today and have a question about the Ford Focus taillight wiring kit.
hdmoxness, if you see this, I was wondering where you drilled the holes in the taillight housings. There doesn't appear to be a substantial amount of room for an additional bulb.

Thanks,
Rod B


PS: I guess I'll need to learn how to properly insert a quote from another post.
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Old 02-20-2014, 05:25 PM   #35
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Exclamation Focus taillights

Rod, getting email only once a day right now. Picture or description tomorrow. I have lots more to share on this subject, too.
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Old 02-20-2014, 09:20 PM   #36
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Smile LEDs for Ford Focus Taillights

In my 2014 Ford Focus Hatchback, the installer, a hitch and truck place, installed LED sockets and “bulbs;” Blue Ox offers a kit to do this. To install, they drilled holes in the flat, horizontal bottom of the upper (red) half of the taillight housing, just to the rear of the Ford’s incandescent bulb that lights up that top section. I don’t know if this is the best location or the only possible location or even how they did it, but I know that when they were done, they left some black plastic drilling flakes inside the bulb compartment that they couldn’t get back out. Be careful with the drilling step. 3 wires go into the socket—ground, taillight, and turn signal. The “bulb” is a 2-wire contact base unit with 5 LEDs in its boxy top end—4 around its waist and 1 on top. The 5 LEDs light up when the taillight voltage is applied to give you a taillight and when an intermittent flasher voltage is added, the LEDs all light up brighter to make it flash on top of the steady running light. Here is the right rear taillight:
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Here is a real close-up. If you look closely, you can see the Ford bulb coming horizontally out of the reflector, and just to the left and below the glass bulb and filament, you can see the LED “bulb” coming up out of the black plastic socket that was inserted from below:
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To get the whole taillight assembly out of the car, you have to open a small plastic panel on the sidewall of the hatchback area (I don’t know about the sedan). Through that opening you can locate one black plastic stalk that you unscrew with your fingers. There is another uncovered opening nearby where there is another black plastic stalk to unscrew. They are somewhat hard to see or feel. With these removed the whole taillight housing can be wiggled and slid aft to dangle by its wires. Unplug the wires (or maybe the bulb sockets) to get the housing clear of the car.

On a related subject, I have completed installation of an SMI Stay-IN-Play Duo braking system in my Focus. One little wrinkle was that I had to switch from negative disconnect to positive disconnect, but we have towed it two legs now and it seems to be working really well. I plan to add extensive notes on this installation soon, and they will have some additional information on the taillight installation.
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Old 02-20-2014, 11:44 PM   #37
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On my 2012 standard ignition I loose the clock and the windows up and down one touch doesn't work.. Needs to be reset.
RKh, I have a 2012 Focus manual trans, and I never have disconnected battery when towing. There is no steering column lock. Ignition is off, so why disconnect battery?
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:22 AM   #38
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[QUOTE=hdmoxness;1936805]In my 2014 Ford Focus Hatchback, the installer, a hitch and truck place, installed LED sockets and “bulbs;” Blue Ox offers a kit to do this. To install, they drilled holes in the flat, horizontal bottom of the upper (red) half of the taillight housing, just to the rear of the Ford’s incandescent bulb that lights up that top section. I don’t know if this is the best location or the only possible location or even how they did it, but I know that when they were done, they left some black plastic drilling flakes inside the bulb compartment that they couldn’t get back out. Be careful with the drilling step. 3 wires go into the socket—ground, taillight, and turn signal. The “bulb” is a 2-wire contact base unit with 5 LEDs in its boxy top end—4 around its waist and 1 on top. The 5 LEDs light up when the taillight voltage is applied to give you a taillight and when an intermittent flasher voltage is added, the LEDs all light up brighter to make it flash on top of the steady running light. Here is the right rear taillight:


I have already removed the taillight housing and examined it. The flat part on the bottom appears to be the best location to me also. My main concern is that there won't be enough clearance behind the bulb socket. It also appears that the housing on my sedan is smaller than on the hatch. Thanks for your reply.

This weekend has been set aside for baseplate and wiring installation. The end result should be similar to yours, as I have also purchased Blue Ox products. I'll try to post photos of the results.
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:35 AM   #39
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RKh, I have a 2012 Focus manual trans, and I never have disconnected battery when towing. There is no steering column lock. Ignition is off, so why disconnect battery?
Hi Dave, I have an automatic trans. Key must be turned to acc. Position to put trans in neutral. Key then does not return all the way to off, hence battery will go dead if not disconnected.
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:26 AM   #40
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Hi Dave, I have an automatic trans. Key must be turned to acc. Position to put trans in neutral. Key then does not return all the way to off, hence battery will go dead if not disconnected.
Sorry I didn't read post carefully, I saw "standard" and just assumed transmission, lol!
Now I'm really glad I ordered the car with the manual trans.
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Old 02-21-2014, 11:30 AM   #41
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Sorry I didn't read post carefully, I saw "standard" and just assumed transmission, lol! Now I'm really glad I ordered the car with the manual trans.
We did not want a manual transmission. But the Focus is really a manual transmission with electronic controls to make it automatic! Four wheels down with no restrictions. Just a 10 second additional step of turning the battery cutoff switch. Clock and windows minor issue to us.
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Old 02-21-2014, 11:57 AM   #42
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This weekend has been set aside for baseplate and wiring installation. The end result should be similar to yours, as I have also purchased Blue Ox products. I'll try to post photos of the results.
Good luck with the baseplate install. I have a 2014 also and it required lots of extra modification to plastic parts. Blue Ox said "it should be the same as a 13". I sent them photos but in the end they did not seem to care less. Hopefully yours will go better.
The main crossbar of the baseplate needed to be about 1/2" lower. Maybe the one I got was welded wrong or the car was out of spec.
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