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Old 02-28-2014, 12:05 PM   #57
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One problem I see with turning the battery is if you ever have to jump start the car. Seems to me it would be difficult to get a jumper cable clamp on the back battery terminal without also touching metal.
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Old 02-28-2014, 03:07 PM   #58
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One problem I see with turning the battery is if you ever have to jump start the car. Seems to me it would be difficult to get a jumper cable clamp on the back battery terminal without also touching metal.
The big positive lug that the cable directly connects to is easily accessible in the front of the battery tray.
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Old 03-01-2014, 08:12 AM   #59
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Oops! Senior moment. I still like having a switch on the neg. terminal though.
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Old 03-01-2014, 09:28 AM   #60
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This is my 2012 Focus negative cutoff switch. Easy, accessible, and inexpensive..
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Old 03-01-2014, 12:54 PM   #61
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I'm worried the crossbar will make my 2014 focus run hot. From the factory it will get to normal temperature after driving only one block 1/4 mile in cool weather. Anybody had any trouble with temp? Trying to make the battery disconnect last part after I get the facia back on.
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Old 03-01-2014, 02:08 PM   #62
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Question Negative disconnect

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This is my 2012 Focus negative cutoff switch. Easy, accessible, and inexpensive..
What about those other two small wires that come off the connector on the negative battery post? Do they not need to be disconnected?
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Old 03-01-2014, 02:20 PM   #63
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Arrow Focus engine temperature

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I'm worried the crossbar will make my 2014 focus run hot. From the factory it will get to normal temperature after driving only one block 1/4 mile in cool weather. Anybody had any trouble with temp? Trying to make the battery disconnect last part after I get the facia back on.
I assume the "crossbar" you are speaking of is part of the baseplate. I have found our baseplate-equipped 2014 Focus reaches operating temperature quickly, but then the temperature needle stays nailed on the half way point. We are driving in mid 80s outside temperatures in southwest Texas with no problems.
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Old 03-01-2014, 02:43 PM   #64
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Well maybe temp will be ok. As far as I can tell right now all neg wires have to be disconnected. I'm still having fun with this facia, putting on taking off cutting a little more.
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Old 03-01-2014, 03:29 PM   #65
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I'm confused. Is this thread about the Focus battery disconnect or base plate installation?
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Old 03-01-2014, 03:37 PM   #66
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Sorry got off subject, battery is my next step, please forgive me.
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Old 03-01-2014, 03:53 PM   #67
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I'm worried the crossbar will make my 2014 focus run hot. From the factory it will get to normal temperature after driving only one block 1/4 mile in cool weather. Anybody had any trouble with temp? Trying to make the battery disconnect last part after I get the facia back on.
Something to keep in mind that the temp gauge is not as accurate as you may think. Once started up and the engine temp starts to rise, the gauge will pretty much jump to the normal position. The engine however has not reached normal operating temps yet. The gauge will alert you of an overheat condition but it is programmed to go the normal position quickly.
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Old 03-01-2014, 04:09 PM   #68
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You mean the temp gauge doesn't report the temperature at its sensor?
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Old 03-01-2014, 04:10 PM   #69
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Something to keep in mind that the temp gauge is not as accurate as you may think. Once started up and the engine temp starts to rise, the gauge will pretty much jump to the normal position. The engine however has not reached normal operating temps yet. The gauge will alert you of an overheat condition but it is programmed to go the normal position quickly.
Our 2014 the gauge jumps to normal in a hurry even in the winter. But the car interior hardly gets warm in a 10 mile drive. I'm talking with a outside temp of 0 to 20 degrees. Flip the control so the heat comes out the AC vent and it's hot, but in floor discharge position hardly any heat at the floor level. Worst car I ever owned for winter use. I have a 2006 Focus and it has good heat at the floor level in 3 or 4 miles.
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Old 03-01-2014, 04:28 PM   #70
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You mean the temp gauge doesn't report the temperature at its sensor?
The engine temp sensor is actually a sensor that measures cylinder head temp. Not the coolant but the actual aluminum head. This is actually more accurate for engine temp monitoring. Especially when there I no coolant in the system. No coolant in a typical coolant monitored system is not accurate with no coolant flowing past it.

The PCM will read the cylinder head temp and send out this data over the high speed CAN network where modules like the instrument cluster, automatic climate control will intercept this data and use it for the specific needs of that module.
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