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Old 03-01-2014, 04:30 PM   #71
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Our 2014 the gauge jumps to normal in a hurry even in the winter. But the car interior hardly gets warm in a 10 mile drive. I'm talking with a outside temp of 0 to 20 degrees. Flip the control so the heat comes out the AC vent and it's hot, but in floor discharge position hardly any heat at the floor level. Worst car I ever owned for winter use. I have a 2006 Focus and it has good heat at the floor level in 3 or 4 miles.
My 13 Escape is the same. The gauge will read normal while my automatic climate control is not starting the fan yet because engine temp is not up yet. I usually will start the engine 5 or so minutes before I leave anyways so this helps. I prefer to warm up the engine anyways due to it being turbo charged.
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Old 03-01-2014, 06:29 PM   #72
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I'm confused. Is this thread about the Focus battery disconnect or base plate installation?
Don't be confused, take what you need and leave the rest! I think the OP, Patchy, got all he needed on the battery disconnect topic. Ford says to disconnect NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE only. So, that's what I do to avoid any issue with warranty. I facilitate the disconnect with a very simple switch. Done..
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Old 03-01-2014, 09:33 PM   #73
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This is my 2012 Focus negative cutoff switch. Easy, accessible, and inexpensive..
Rkh, be careful. I believe there are two things wrong with your method.

First, (as far as I can see) you are leaving the two small negative wires connected at the battery. No one seems to know what they do, but on one forum, a guy who did the same ended up tearing up his transmission.

Second, that type of disconnect is cheaply made and is known to fail. Sometimes failing "on". There are knife blade styles which are much better.
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Old 03-01-2014, 10:10 PM   #74
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Rkh, be careful. I believe there are two things wrong with your method. First, (as far as I can see) you are leaving the two small negative wires connected at the battery. No one seems to know what they do, but on one forum, a guy who did the same ended up tearing up his transmission. Second, that type of disconnect is cheaply made and is known to fail. Sometimes failing "on". There are knife blade styles which are much better.
Thanks Snowman. I'm covered as I am doing exactly as Ford advises. I don't need to worry about wires that aren't mentioned in my owners manual.
As for my cut-off switch, you are right. I don't trust it so I made a plastic wedge that I install on the backside of the knob/nut when in disconnect mode.
Can't get anything past the experienced gang on irv2...In my picture, you'll see where I store it just below the cut-off assm. It looks like a square piece but actually is notched so it slides over the nut...
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Old 03-02-2014, 08:41 AM   #75
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Rkh, the wires in question are on the negative terminal, at the battery post. They are not disconnected when you disconnect the big cable at the exposed post where you are doing it.

It would be great if you are right, because it would be a lot easier to rig this up. And maybe you are. But to be safe, I'm going with the setup shown on page 2 of the thread.
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Old 03-02-2014, 09:09 AM   #76
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Rkh, the wires in question are on the negative terminal, at the battery post. They are not disconnected when you disconnect the big cable at the exposed post where you are doing it. It would be great if you are right, because it would be a lot easier to rig this up. And maybe you are. But to be safe, I'm going with the setup shown on page 2 of the thread.
I guess what I'm saying is, I trust what my owners manual is telling me to do, and it doesn't include disconnecting that wire group. I've towed this way for over 6,000 miles so I'm pretty comfortable at this point.
Does your manual mention this? Do you know what those wires are for? Just curious.
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Old 03-02-2014, 09:30 AM   #77
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I guess what I'm saying is, I trust what my owners manual is telling me to do, and it doesn't include disconnecting that wire group. I've towed this way for over 6,000 miles so I'm pretty comfortable at this point. Does your manual mention this? Do you know what those wires are for? Just curious.
But upon further review, I did not consider that I am really disconnecting from the frame, not the battery post... Uggghh!
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Old 03-02-2014, 09:47 AM   #78
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But upon further review, I did not consider that I am really disconnecting from the frame, not the battery post... Uggghh!
Now you've got your finger on the problem!
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Old 03-02-2014, 11:37 PM   #79
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Now you've got your finger on the problem!
After 6,000 miles, I think I'm ok disconnecting from the firewall. However, because I'm a CYA kinda of guy, I will unplug the connector off the neg cable. It comes off easily by squeezing the locking clip. At some point, I'll install a connector on the wires as they come out off the battery box so I can put the cover back on...
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:39 AM   #80
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Don't be confused, take what you need and leave the rest! I think the OP, Patchy, got all he needed on the battery disconnect topic. Ford says to disconnect NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE only. So, that's what I do to avoid any issue with warranty. I facilitate the disconnect with a very simple switch. Done..
The reason they want the negative cable disconnected is because if it's left connected the whole chassis is still grounded to the battery and if the disconnected positive cable is allowed to make contact with any part of the chassis a connection is completed and damage can occur. I used the disconnect type with the knob on the positive cable but remove the knob and store it until it's time to hook it up again. I posted a photo in an earlier post here. I've been towing a 2012 Focus for two years and at least 6,000 miles with no ill effects.
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:52 PM   #81
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To hdmoxness, Regarding installing a battery switch on a 2014 Focus Titanium. I like the idea but I might be missing something. Should the disconnect switch be between the new 15" (GT215) cable and the OEM (Ford) negetive cable? I don't see how the switch would work not being in line.
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Old 03-20-2014, 06:51 AM   #82
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To hdmoxness, Regarding installing a battery switch on a 2014 Focus Titanium. I like the idea but I might be missing something. Should the disconnect switch be between the new 15" (GT215) cable and the OEM (Ford) negetive cable? I don't see how the switch would work not being in line.
That is where he has the switch. Inline between the OEM cable and the new one going to the battery. It's not readily apparent in the photo, maybe.
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Old 03-20-2014, 07:08 AM   #83
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Lightbulb DSharpe

The short answer is yes. The Focus neg cable (with its small wires and all) is removed from the neg battery post and brought out on top of the fuse box. The GT215 is then clamped to the battery's neg post and its lug end routed aft, then to driver's side, and then forward to the top of the fuse box. This lug end is secured to one bolt terminal on the bottom of the switch. You then make up a short (4-1/4") 2-gauge cable with a terminal lug on each end. Attach one end of this shortie to the other bolt terminal on the switch. On the other end of this shortie, attach a conversion post, which looks just like the negative battery post on top of the battery. Put the Focus neg cable clamp on the conversion post and tighten. Now you have a switch in line between the battery's neg post and the Ford factory negative cable.
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Old 03-20-2014, 07:29 AM   #84
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Post Brakes on the Ford Focus

Now, in the next breath, I have to eat some of my words and disclose that after installing the negative disconnect, I continued my Focus modifications to install a brake system by SMI (the Stay-IN-Play Duo). In the end, this necessitated a positive cable disconnect, instead of a negative cable disconnect.

So if you decide to use the SMI, or maybe some other brake systems, you may want to read my 4-page document on the subject or view my wiring diagram for the modification, both available by PM or email request (hdmoxness@hotmail.com). See my thread on this subject here.
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