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Old 03-17-2016, 01:09 PM   #211
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Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
If you have a 6 or 7 pin umbilical cord, you probably have an unused 12 v (+) pin. Run a wire from a 12 v (+) on the RV, add in an auto reset 15 amp circuit breaker, then connect to an unused pin on the RV socket. On the toad, run a wire from the same pin in the toad's socket to the (+) post of the battery. You should include a second 15 amp auto reset circuit breaker to that line. You should also check that the ground pin in both sockets is connected to each vehicle ground. If the toad's ground isn't tied in, the circuit won't be complete. (If your toad towing lights are independent, there might not be a path to ground, for instance)

Now, when the RV 12v (+) wire is hot, it will pass electricity through to the battery. If you choose an ignition switched source, the charging will only happen when the ignition is on.
The pin on the coach is already fused.
Put the fuse or CB right on the PDC power lug.

Dan
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:20 PM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
If you have a 6 or 7 pin umbilical cord, you probably have an unused 12 v (+) pin. Run a wire from a 12 v (+) on the RV, add in an auto reset 15 amp circuit breaker, then connect to an unused pin on the RV socket. On the toad, run a wire from the same pin in the toad's socket to the (+) post of the battery. You should include a second 15 amp auto reset circuit breaker to that line. You should also check that the ground pin in both sockets is connected to each vehicle ground. If the toad's ground isn't tied in, the circuit won't be complete. (If your toad towing lights are independent, there might not be a path to ground, for instance)

Now, when the RV 12v (+) wire is hot, it will pass electricity through to the battery. If you choose an ignition switched source, the charging will only happen when the ignition is on.
The pin on the coach is already fused.
Put the fuse or CB right on the PDC power lug.

Dan
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:26 PM   #213
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2014 Jeep Cherokee flat towing

I wasn't sure whether Steve was directing his question to me or Dan. First, if you have Air Force 1, that does draw current.
Second, I would agree you would need the 12v umbilical from the RV ( at the 7pin that usually is RV ignition switched). However, I would strongly suggest you fit a toad charger rather than connecting the feed direct to your battery. The one I have from RVi brake is small and relatively inexpensive. It carries its own fuse and is also fitted with a diode to prevent back feed to the RV. Mine came from RVUpgrade.com but I expect Amazon would carry them.
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:46 PM   #214
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I wasn't sure whether Steve was directing his question to me or Dan. First, if you have Air Force 1, that does draw current.
Second, I would agree you would need the 12v umbilical from the RV ( at the 7pin that usually is RV ignition switched). However, I would strongly suggest you fit a toad charger rather than connecting the feed direct to your battery. The one I have from RVi is small and relatively inexpensive. It carries its own fuse and is also fitted with a diode to prevent back feed to the RV. Mine came from RVUpgrade.com but I expect Amazon would carry them.
What's going to 'back feed'? Two charged 12 v batteries can be hooked up in parallel with no problem. The RV alternator will create a charging current which will flow into the toad battery. When the RV is turned off, the charging stops. The RV won't overcharge the toad battery, it will be no more charged than the RV's chassis batteries are.

Before you'd start or use the toad, you'd disconnect it from the umbilical. I've towed my toad from coast to coast and never had an overcharging or back feed issue or any evidence of this. The need for a 'toad charger' is created by the manufacturer, it's not a box you need to install to charge the battery in the toad.
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:22 PM   #215
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Well, one reason perhaps. When you're cold cranking that big coach engine using a less than perfect battery, do you want your toad battery to come to play? Mind you, that would probably blow the umbilical.

Hey, opinions - everyone has them.
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Old 03-17-2016, 03:41 PM   #216
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Well, one reason perhaps. When you're cold cranking that big coach engine using a less than perfect battery, do you want your toad battery to come to play? Mind you, that would probably blow the umbilical.

Hey, opinions - everyone has them.
No more than 15 amps, then the circuit breakers trip and the toad battery is isolated. That's why the 15 amp auto reset CB's.
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Old 03-17-2016, 04:01 PM   #217
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No more than 15 amps, then the circuit breakers trip and the toad battery is isolated. That's why the 15 amp auto reset CB's.
That is a very interesting theory....never thought of that aspect.
I will say that on my Freightliner chassis, the 12v charge line is through a relay.
So it is only active when the key is on. This means when parked, the RV can't drain the toad.

Also, the AF1 DOES NOT draw any current until the Break Away switch is activated. And the current it needs comes from the TOAD since it is now loose from the RV.

As far is popping the circuit breaker while starting with a low battery, what really is happening, is that the 12V source in the toad is now trying to pull up a 10v (approx)source. This assumes that the starter is drawing the chassis battery down. So we have a 2v or 3v differential across some 12ga wire.
Since the wire will have some resistance, there will be some current limiting.
Too many variables to say it is a real problem....but interesting theory.


Regards,

Dan
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Old 03-19-2016, 03:48 PM   #218
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Another snippet of information: The Jeep dealer in the city where we are staying for a while has recently told me that supplies of the flat tow kits won't be available until 6th June, by which time we will have left for home. So I called my local to home dealer to make arrangements to take us in after our return. (I sent them a copy of the TSB to apprise them of our requirement.) I learnt from them yesterday that the kit part number is no longer valid as FCA has redesigned the fix. So, let's wait and see. Maybe they will be putting the switch and fuse together under the hood as I recently suggested!
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Old 03-20-2016, 09:59 AM   #219
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Another snippet of information: The Jeep dealer in the city where we are staying for a while has recently told me that supplies of the flat tow kits won't be available until 6th June, by which time we will have left for home. So I called my local to home dealer to make arrangements to take us in after our return. (I sent them a copy of the TSB to apprise them of our requirement.) I learnt from them yesterday that the kit part number is no longer valid as FCA has redesigned the fix. So, let's wait and see. Maybe they will be putting the switch and fuse together under the hood as I recently suggested!
Wow, what a scramble.

They actually need to do two things to make this work.
1. Isolate the EPS system so it can be powered up by itself.
2. Connect 12v power to the isolated circuit.

Their first kit could have done all of it if they would have run more wires from the PDC back into the console. This would leave the switch inside the car (my preference).

Still hate the battety drain.....in you park overnight, and forget to turn off the switch, you get a dead battery in the morning.

Dan
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Old 03-24-2016, 07:40 AM   #220
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Well, one reason perhaps. When you're cold cranking that big coach engine using a less than perfect battery, do you want your toad battery to come to play? Mind you, that would probably blow the umbilical.

Hey, opinions - everyone has them.
Re the Charge wire issue, a diode, rated at or above the rating of the fuse/circuit breaker/charge line, will prevent the possible back-feed I've been doing that on the past few toads.
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Old 03-24-2016, 07:41 AM   #221
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Another snippet of information: The Jeep dealer in the city where we are staying for a while has recently told me that supplies of the flat tow kits won't be available until 6th June, by which time we will have left for home. So I called my local to home dealer to make arrangements to take us in after our return. (I sent them a copy of the TSB to apprise them of our requirement.) I learnt from them yesterday that the kit part number is no longer valid as FCA has redesigned the fix. So, let's wait and see. Maybe they will be putting the switch and fuse together under the hood as I recently suggested!
June??? 2016??? Does anyone have, in writing, the availability date of the revised kit?
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Old 07-22-2016, 07:20 PM   #222
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Sorry about reviving an old thread, but I have been considering a 2014 Cherokee Sport. Reading the earlier posts indicate that none of those are towable . Can anyone confirm this for me?


Thanks,
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Old 07-22-2016, 07:39 PM   #223
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Sorry about reviving an old thread, but I have been considering a 2014 Cherokee Sport. Reading the earlier posts indicate that none of those are towable . Can anyone confirm this for me?

Thanks,
Tom
Only Cherokees with the 2-speed Active Drive II 4WD system are towable 'four wheels down'. This is because that system has a neutral position. I do not recall if the 2014 Sport had that option. If you find a 2014 Cherokee Model which has AD-II it will need the "flat-tow wiring kit" installed. Threads in this forum explain the details.
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Old 07-22-2016, 08:48 PM   #224
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Thanks, Rick. The specs don't mention that feature, so it probably does not have it.


Thanks again. I probably won't bother to look at it.


Tom
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