2014 Jeep Cherokee flat towing

[S-n-L]

RREAM,

As for the grinding noise, originally when I set up the toad I had the grinding noise so I brought it to the Jeep dealer where I purchased the Cherokee. Fortunately I spoke with a mechanic who was familiar with the issue. He told me the the way to avoid this is to quickly move the gear shift from park to neutral or any other gear shift. Reluctantly I did just that with the mechanic in the car and low and behold no grinding. So now I quickly shift the gears and never heard the sound again.

I thought moving the gear shift nice and slow would be the correct way to do it but no, a nice swift movement. Also, as jcullipher mentioned, make sure the engine has gone back to an idle before shifting gears. The quick shift did it for me.

I am now doing the wig-wag thing as soon as I take off to make sure the arms are locked. Just a few days ago I spoke to a couple who did not have their arms locked then went to make a tight turn and the toad crashed into the coach, ouch!!! They also now make sure the arms are locked.

[bcp]

Originally Posted by jjr4

rream - yes, I also sometimes get a grinding noise on the shift to park from neutral. Would love to find a way to avoid this. Anyone have an idea?

I only get grinding, it's the parking pawl, if I shift from R to P instead of following the 15 steps where step 9 says put trans in R, 10 check to see if vehicle moves, 11 shift trans to N, 12 apply parking brake, 13 put trans into P and so on. If you cheat and move the selector from R to P and skip the N step, you will get grinding. It's a PIA to have to follow so many steps but skipping one or more steps may be an expensive decision.

[BobGed]

After I verify that the transfer case is indeed in Neutral by putting the transmission in Reverse and applying some throttle, I then put the transmission in Neutral, turn the engine off and shift the transmission to Park. I never get any grinding.

The engine has to be off when you start the procedure so I don't see the purpose of leaving the engine running while performing this last part of the procedure.

I also have some additional problems with their instructions. Here's the complete text from their User Guide:

1. Bring the vehicle to a complete stop and shift the transmission to PARK.
2. Turn the engine OFF.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position, but do not start the engine.
4. Press and hold the brake pedal.
5. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL.
6. Using a ballpoint pen or similar object, press and hold the recessed NEUTRAL (N) button (located by the
selector switch) for four seconds. The light behind the NEUTRAL (N) symbol will blink, indicating shift in
progress. The light will stop blinking (stay on solid) when the shift to NEUTRAL (N) is complete.
7. After the shift is completed and the NEUTRAL (N) light stays on, release the NEUTRAL (N) button.
8. Start the engine.
9. Shift the transmission into REVERSE.
10. Release the brake pedal for five seconds and ensure that there is no vehicle movement.
11. Shift the transmission to NEUTRAL.
12. Apply the parking brake.
13. Shift the transmission into PARK, turn the engine OFF, and remove the key fob.
14. Attach the vehicle to the tow vehicle using a suitable tow bar.
15. Release the parking brake.

My problem is with instructions #10 & #11. At that point the transfer case is in Neutral and they are instructing you to release the brake pedal for five seconds. They don't tell you to apply the parking brake until instruction #12. What makes them think the vehicle is just going to sit there with no movement particularly if you're on any incline.

I always connect the Jeep to the coach, putting the transmission in Reverse and slowly back up to lock the tow bar prior to performing the procedures outlined above, sans the parking brake application.

Also there's no way I'm getting between the coach and the Jeep while it's in Neutral with only the parking brake holding it.

[rream]

Thanks for the feedback I will try some of the suggestions and make sure I am doing it right today

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by BobGed

After I verify that the transfer case is indeed in Neutral by putting the transmission in Reverse and applying some throttle, I then put the transmission in Neutral, turn the engine off and shift the transmission to Park. I never get any grinding.

The engine has to be off when you start the procedure so I don't see the purpose of leaving the engine running while performing this last part of the procedure.

I also have some additional problems with their instructions. Here's the complete text from their User Guide:

STEP 0. Engage Common Sense before starting this procedure.
1. Bring the vehicle to a complete stop and shift the transmission to PARK.
2. Turn the engine OFF.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position, but do not start the engine.
4. Press and hold the brake pedal.
5. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL.
6. Using a ballpoint pen or similar object, press and hold the recessed NEUTRAL (N) button (located by the
selector switch) for four seconds. The light behind the NEUTRAL (N) symbol will blink, indicating shift in
progress. The light will stop blinking (stay on solid) when the shift to NEUTRAL (N) is complete.
7. After the shift is completed and the NEUTRAL (N) light stays on, release the NEUTRAL (N) button.
8. Start the engine.
9. Shift the transmission into REVERSE.
10. Release the brake pedal for five seconds and ensure that there is no vehicle movement.
11. Shift the transmission to NEUTRAL.
12. Apply the parking brake.
13. Shift the transmission into PARK, turn the engine OFF, and remove the key fob.
14. Attach the vehicle to the tow vehicle using a suitable tow bar.
15. Release the parking brake.

My problem is with instructions #10 & #11. At that point the transfer case is in Neutral and they are instructing you to release the brake pedal for five seconds. They don't tell you to apply the parking brake until instruction #12. What makes them think the vehicle is just going to sit there with no movement particularly if you're on any incline.

I always connect the Jeep to the coach, putting the transmission in Reverse and slowly back up to lock the tow bar prior to performing the procedures outlined above, sans the parking brake application.

Also there's no way I'm getting between the coach and the Jeep while it's in Neutral with only the parking brake holding it.

The Step 0. was added for liability reasons.

[MartinC]

The words 'for four seconds' should be ignored. If you release the button after you have counted four seconds but before the light stays on solid, you have to go through the whole process again. Also, do remember to keep the brake pedal pressed throughout the whole process.

[cherokee1]

Originally Posted by BobGed

I have contacted Roadmaster and Blue Ox and they both said they have appointments to design baseplates for the Limited and Trail Hawk.

I am going to hold off ordering my Limited until the first quarter when they are due have additional exterior color options available, one of which is Cashmere (not available for the TH).

Here's link to a complete list of all of the features and options available on the various Cherokee models:
http://chryslermedia.iconicweb.com/m...herokee_FA.pdf

We just bought a new '14 Cherokee Latitude.... It's beautiful Cashmere with Grand Canyon brown interior, and Active ll drive. Something I learned AFTER purchase that may be of interest to you. Manual says it can be towed 4 down... but NOT on a two wheel dolly!! What??? trans. in neutral... so what's the difference... anyone know why??
Cherokee1

[FlyingDiver]

Originally Posted by cherokee1

We just bought a new '14 Cherokee Latitude.... It's beautiful Cashmere with Grand Canyon brown interior, and Active ll drive. Something I learned AFTER purchase that may be of interest to you. Manual says it can be towed 4 down... but NOT on a two wheel dolly!! What??? trans. in neutral... so what's the difference... anyone know why??
Cherokee1

Because the transfer case can handle both axles rotating, but not just one.

[CJ7ole]

I took a Latitude for a test drive yesterday. Very nice, it is now on my wish list. The dealer said he has leased several for flat towing, the only caveat is that they must use a "baseplate" that does not go through the grill, but underneath. ??? Of course it must be removed before turning it in at the end of the lease period. He claims several manufacturers make such a contraption, but referred me to an RV dealer when I asked the brand name. I can't find one.

[BFlinn181]

The "Big Three" manufacturers of towing accessories, Blue Ox, Roadmaster and Demco, are marketing or planning base plates for the Jeep Cherokee Latitude. In a quick look, it seems that they all come through the grill below the bumper. If the dealer can find one that comes out lower than that, I'd question that it would hit parking lot curbs and make the car's off-road abilities limited.

[BobGed]

I don't think I personally would go through the expense of setting up a leased vehicle for towing, but it wouldn't be a big problem to reverse the process on a Cherokee. While the fascia does have to be removed in order to mount the base plate, the only part that really gets visually modified is the plastic mesh section where the tabs, light and supplemental connections come through. It would be relatively easy to replace that piece a the end of the lease.

[BlueMoose105]

You did a nice job of hiding the license plate number on the 'after' photo, but forgot to do it on the 'before' photo

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by BlueMoose105

You did a nice job of hiding the license plate number on the 'after' photo, but forgot to do it on the 'before' photo

Unless you're a Hollywood mega star, I've never understood what's up with blurring the license plate. I never cover mine when on the road or in a parking lot, couldn't it be just as 'dangerous' to leave it exposed in those situations?

[jdwky]

Originally Posted by BlueMoose105

You did a nice job of hiding the license plate number on the 'after' photo, but forgot to do it on the 'before' photo

Now that's funny!!