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Old 02-07-2017, 10:14 AM   #155
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Update! Ford updated the software and replaced the (DCT) clutch. What a difference. I would highly suggest that anyone having problems with their Focus DCT go to Ford and have it replaced. NO COST TO ME.
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Old 02-07-2017, 03:45 PM   #156
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Update! Ford updated the software and replaced the (DCT) clutch. What a difference. I would highly suggest that anyone having problems with their Focus DCT go to Ford and have it replaced. NO COST TO ME.
I had mine done a few weeks ago under warranty after some squabbling with the service adviser. A quick escalation to Ford Customer Service and they sided with me to resolve the problem. It took a few weeks to actually get the part. Not sure if there was a software update or not. It is working like it did when I first purchased the car. My problem didn't crop up until around 10k miles so we shall see if this really fixed the root cause of the problem. One can hope though.
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Old 02-08-2017, 05:33 AM   #157
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I had mine done a few weeks ago under warranty after some squabbling with the service adviser. A quick escalation to Ford Customer Service and they sided with me to resolve the problem. It took a few weeks to actually get the part. Not sure if there was a software update or not. It is working like it did when I first purchased the car. My problem didn't crop up until around 10k miles so we shall see if this really fixed the root cause of the problem. One can hope though.
What symptoms did you have?

I have 34K on mine and it shudders every once in awhile. I don't think it should at all, but Ford says that's normal
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Old 02-08-2017, 06:32 AM   #158
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Mine "stuttered" from day one and progressively got worse to the point that I didn't think I could go another mile (17,000 miles). The new clutch doesn't stutter at all. It works just as it should. Much better than when I first purchased the car.

There was a letter sent out by Ford that increases the warranty on the (TCM) transmission control module to 10 years or 150,000 miles. I do believe my problem was in the clutch itself though a software update was performed.

It is unfortunate about the DCT problems because I really like the car and I am hoping this most recent fix will finally take care of the problem.
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Old 02-08-2017, 06:46 AM   #159
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What symptoms did you have?

I have 34K on mine and it shudders every once in awhile. I don't think it should at all, but Ford says that's normal
They said it was "normal" to me too. I said it didn't do it for the first 10k miles. This is where being a very detail oriented person is good (and there are many times it is NOT good). They said they could not reproduce it. I said it happens almost without fail when I am doing between 18 and 20 mph and the rpms are between 1800 and 2100. Also, there are times when it hesitates. Like pulling out on to the highway and all of a sudden I have a car on my rear because the trans did not downshift and there is little power on a 4 cylinder when the rpms are low. This could not be reproduced on demand but was a problem in any case. I did my research before bringing it in and then calling Ford.My discussion went like this with Ford Customer Service:
So, let me see if I understand this correctly. Ford has a problem for a number of years with this transmission. I was not informed of this problem when I purchased the vehicle new from you. The problem is a safety risk to me and others on the road. You have a fix for it yet you do not want to perform the fix on my car? Ford is now on notice should ANYONE be involved in an accident with this vehicle that there is a problem with it and Ford failed to live up to it's obligation to provide a safe driving vehicle.
Was a short conversation and the rep was very nice. She said she will discuss the matter with the service adviser at the dealer.
Ford did call me back and said I should no longer deal with the service adviser I was previously. I should now deal with only the service manager going forward.
The service tech diagnosed the problem that afternoon and parts were ordered.
It's fixed and I am a happy person again driving my fun car.
It is a damn shame they say the shuddering is "normal". It is not. If you have ever driven a manual transmission you know it's not normal for the clutch plates to be slipping and shuddering the entire car. Or maybe it is normal for a poor or lazy driver. Not normal for me.
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Old 02-08-2017, 09:21 AM   #160
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They said it was "normal" to me too. I said it didn't do it for the first 10k miles. This is where being a very detail oriented person is good (and there are many times it is NOT good). They said they could not reproduce it. I said it happens almost without fail when I am doing between 18 and 20 mph and the rpms are between 1800 and 2100. Also, there are times when it hesitates. Like pulling out on to the highway and all of a sudden I have a car on my rear because the trans did not downshift and there is little power on a 4 cylinder when the rpms are low. This could not be reproduced on demand but was a problem in any case. I did my research before bringing it in and then calling Ford.My discussion went like this with Ford Customer Service:
So, let me see if I understand this correctly. Ford has a problem for a number of years with this transmission. I was not informed of this problem when I purchased the vehicle new from you. The problem is a safety risk to me and others on the road. You have a fix for it yet you do not want to perform the fix on my car? Ford is now on notice should ANYONE be involved in an accident with this vehicle that there is a problem with it and Ford failed to live up to it's obligation to provide a safe driving vehicle.
Was a short conversation and the rep was very nice. She said she will discuss the matter with the service adviser at the dealer.
Ford did call me back and said I should no longer deal with the service adviser I was previously. I should now deal with only the service manager going forward.
The service tech diagnosed the problem that afternoon and parts were ordered.
It's fixed and I am a happy person again driving my fun car.
It is a damn shame they say the shuddering is "normal". It is not. If you have ever driven a manual transmission you know it's not normal for the clutch plates to be slipping and shuddering the entire car. Or maybe it is normal for a poor or lazy driver. Not normal for me.

Ford seem slow to react when their cars have issues. Most of the time I think they end up doing the right thing, but not always.

Glad you guys got it taken care of.
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Old 04-02-2017, 01:33 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by computerguy View Post
They said it was "normal" to me too. I said it didn't do it for the first 10k miles. This is where being a very detail oriented person is good (and there are many times it is NOT good). They said they could not reproduce it. I said it happens almost without fail when I am doing between 18 and 20 mph and the rpms are between 1800 and 2100. Also, there are times when it hesitates. Like pulling out on to the highway and all of a sudden I have a car on my rear because the trans did not downshift and there is little power on a 4 cylinder when the rpms are low. This could not be reproduced on demand but was a problem in any case. I did my research before bringing it in and then calling Ford.My discussion went like this with Ford Customer Service:
So, let me see if I understand this correctly. Ford has a problem for a number of years with this transmission. I was not informed of this problem when I purchased the vehicle new from you. The problem is a safety risk to me and others on the road. You have a fix for it yet you do not want to perform the fix on my car? Ford is now on notice should ANYONE be involved in an accident with this vehicle that there is a problem with it and Ford failed to live up to it's obligation to provide a safe driving vehicle.
Was a short conversation and the rep was very nice. She said she will discuss the matter with the service adviser at the dealer.
Ford did call me back and said I should no longer deal with the service adviser I was previously. I should now deal with only the service manager going forward.
The service tech diagnosed the problem that afternoon and parts were ordered.
It's fixed and I am a happy person again driving my fun car.
It is a damn shame they say the shuddering is "normal". It is not. If you have ever driven a manual transmission you know it's not normal for the clutch plates to be slipping and shuddering the entire car. Or maybe it is normal for a poor or lazy driver. Not normal for me.
Hi, i agree with you on a clutch in a manual transmission car. I am driving my sons 2010 Ford Fusion 6 speed manual for fun lately, no shuttering, just smooth like my manuals from my youth.
I am in the process of purchasing a brand new 2016 Ford Focus Titanium for a really good price for towing. I am now concerned about finalizing the purchase after learning about your 2016 having a problem at 10,000 miles. I understand that I t does have a 5 year 60,000 mile warranty on the drivetrain from the date of purchase but who wants their car torn apart at 10,000 miles? I took time while at the dealership to talk to a mechanic/repair technician before I talked to a salesman. He told me that in the prior transmissions there was a seal that could leak oil onto the clutch pads which caused the shaking and shuttering. He said in the 2016 models they had redesigned that part of the transmission including some parts and seals. If your car had a problem it makes me wonder if your 2016 was built in 2015 as the 2016 models were coming out in the fall. Can you find out or do you know when/date your car was manufactured? I am also curious as to how long it took for your Ford dealership to receive parts and repair your car if you don't mind sharing the above information. I am a Ford guy and I want to buy and use a Ford. I'm reading this long 12 page thread to figure out what all of you are using to set up your cars for towing. I am using a Roadmaster Falcon 2 that I've used in the last two years to pull my Ford Explorer and now my 4,200 lb 4 door Jeep. The jeep is VERY easy to attach and go. We were thinking about downsizing our Motorhome to a Sprinter chassis type so we needed a liter weight car, thus the 2,800 lb Focus. Anyway, any info you can supply would be greatly appreciated.
Also what did the new extended warranty cover, the 10 year 150,000 mile?
As a side note one of my old friends has a 2014 Ford Focus with 17,000 miles and NO ISSUES.
Thanks to everyone for information in this long thread!
Larry
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:34 AM   #162
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I have a 2012 focus, @ 80k miles I had the clutch and seal replaced ( last month) it's my commute car, 90% hi way driving the shudder was not too bad, it was very noticeable when in slow stop & go traffic. New clutch & seal seem good so far maybe 3000 miles. My year had a tab for extended warranty on the tranny to 100k and tranny control module to 150k not sure on the later years
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Old 04-03-2017, 08:06 AM   #163
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The clutch and transmission problems on the 2012-2016 Focus and Fiesta models are totally unrelated to four down towing. If you want more information you should go look at Ford Focus Forum, Focus ST Forum, Focus RS Forum
I have some personal experience with these problems and my Ford dealer has taken care of me well.
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Old 04-18-2017, 08:10 AM   #164
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12V Dedicated Socket

We got tired of moving around a 60lb marine battery and smart battery box for the RViBrake2. So we decided to hardwire a new dedicated 12V socket for the RViBrake2. We’ve seen some various ways that others have done it, and we thought we’d offer another alternative approach.


Location: There is ample space above the ODB port for a dedicated 12V socket for supplemental braking. Most are under $10 and can be easily found at Amazon and auto stores. Here is a video of how to access that area: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...er/RM-766.html
Select the video: “Roadmaster Automatic Battery Disconnect with Switch for Towed Vehicle w/ Supplemental Braking System for Ford Focus: Item # RM-766” and jump to 10:30 minutes of the video.


Electrical Connections: For the positive connection, we decided to use a fuse tap. The Passenger Compartment fuse box is under the glove box. We selected “Fuse 65 - 10A Luggage compartment lid release” which is always “On”. Additionally, we decided to run a dedicated battery negative terminal 12 gauge wire into the passenger side too, using the large grommet behind the fuse box. The new 12V socket is on the driver’s side and the electrical connections are on the passenger’s side under the glove box. We ran the negative and positive wires from the 12V socket under the dash in wire loom (to date, all our wiring for the Focus has been in wire loom) to the passenger side.


Battery Charger: We also installed an RViBrake2 toad battery charger. RViBrake2 and others stated we don’t need a fuse on the positive connection to the battery, but we installed a 15A one anyway. The fuse in the RViBrake2 battery charger is to protect the motorhome, so we’re protected in both directions should any wire get chaffed.


Rationale: The new 12V socket is on the driver’s side for convenience. The connections are on the passenger’s side because: 1) That’s where the fuse box is, and 2) We are installing a Dashcam and that requires a connection to a fuse that is always on, and one that is only on when the ignition is on. Additionally, for extra safety, we wanted to keep the negative battery terminal that is disconnected when towing totally isolated from any ground in the car and strictly limited to the RViBrake2 12V socket and the Dashcam. Possibly an overkill, but our transmission shuddered the first few hundred miles, then has been perfect ever since. Attached are some pictures and a wiring diagram for the complete setup (the green ground wire now has full loom).

BTW – We use a battery disconnect switch on the negative side (as discussed earlier in this thread).
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Old 04-18-2017, 08:25 AM   #165
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This picture shows what is where:
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Old 04-19-2017, 03:03 PM   #166
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I paid a radio audio guy to disconnect the lighter on the Focus console and run that socket positive side directly from the battery and use a separate ground and wire other than the vehicle ground. That socket I use to power the iRV Brake system. That way I have isolated power to use when the negative is disconnected as directed by Ford.
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Old 04-19-2017, 03:41 PM   #167
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Would it not be easier to connect the lighter socket to direct power from the Motorhome battery as it gets charged as it runs. You might have issue with any ground and power to vehicle?.
Don. Just a thought
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Old 04-19-2017, 06:00 PM   #168
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Would it not be easier to connect the lighter socket to direct power from the Motorhome battery as it gets charged as it runs. You might have issue with any ground and power to vehicle?.
Don. Just a thought
OP here. That's why I did the way I did it. I wanted no chance for power to get to the transmission
I read some of these other ideas in the thread and it scares me how many different ways power might get to the trans.
But we all make decisions in life and as long as you sleep well at night more power to you.
I sleep well.
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