Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Toads and Motorhome Related Towing
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-16-2016, 04:43 AM   #57
Senior Member
 
69Stang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Valdosta, Ga
Posts: 667
JoeCar, did you happen to investigate where the other small ground wires connect? I'd rather disconnect the large ground wire from the firewall and connect it to the disconnect, then add a short ground wire to the firewall and disconnect. What I don't know is if I'd be able to disconnect the small ground(s) and hook them up to the disconnect as well. I thought I had read where someone had checked them, but can't find the post now and don't remember the outcome of what they found. Looks like a pain to remove the battery to find out where they run though.
__________________

__________________
1998 Southwind Storm 34S
2015 Ford Focus Hatchback SE
Retired Air Force 1981-2006
69Stang is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 03-16-2016, 02:04 PM   #58
Senior Member
 
daydream37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: NE Florida
Posts: 160
ALERT! ALERT! The hood profile is slightly different on the 2015-16 Focus Hatchback than the 2014. Ford lowered the hood profile on the newer ones. I had arranged all my components out on the fuse box as shown on the “hdmoxness” solution. I then slowly shut the hood to make sure I had sufficient clearance. The hood would not close. The Battery doctor did not allow the hood to close. I moved it all around to no avail.

I then moved the switch to the side of the battery box closest to the engine and it looked as though that would work. With through bolting it to the box it would make a cleaner installation. I will take a closer look tomorrow.

I suppose you might be able to use the “hdmoxness” solution on the newer Focus but it would require cutting away the thick insulation on the under side of the hood. That would look "wunky" and I am not sure it would still give you enough clearance.

__________________

__________________
daydream37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2016, 05:00 PM   #59
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69Stang View Post
JoeCar, did you happen to investigate where the other small ground wires connect? I'd rather disconnect the large ground wire from the firewall and connect it to the disconnect, then add a short ground wire to the firewall and disconnect. What I don't know is if I'd be able to disconnect the small ground(s) and hook them up to the disconnect as well. I thought I had read where someone had checked them, but can't find the post now and don't remember the outcome of what they found. Looks like a pain to remove the battery to find out where they run though.
I made this much more complicated than it should have been. I am going to redo it tomorrow, and it is surprising just how simple this really is. As for the ground wire, we've got the Titanium with the big sub-woofer in the trunk. The amp for the sub-woofer is about the size of a shoe box but only about half as high. It may be for that. I'll get pictures of the new battery d/c out ASAP - probably tomomrrow.
__________________
2014 Forest River Sunseeker 2650S
2015 Ford Focus Titanium Hatchback DCT auto
JoeCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2016, 05:15 PM   #60
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 79
Here are some pictures of the Blue Ox BX8869 Bulb And Socket Tail Light Wiring Kit installation. Make sure the hole is clean on both the inside and outside, else the bulbs locking in place prongs won’t catch all the way around. I also used RTV Silicone around the edges before I snapped it in place. There is plenty of room for the bulb on the inside if you drill in the right location. There is also plenty of room on the outside for the bulb’s socket and the 4-way trailer connector. The only reason I chose the 4-wire trailer connector versus other connectors is over the years I seem to have collected half a dozen of them.

If you follow the Blue Ox instructions, you end up with the 4-wire harness on the driver’s side. I ran it inside ½” wire loom up to the rear door sill. There is plenty of room to run it between the rear fender inner metal and the plastic bins/spacers surround the spare tire, and out of the trunk under the rear seat. Next I pulled up the weather stripping (see front sill picture) from the front and then popped up the rear sill piece in the rear. Because of the small space in the sill area, the wire loom ended in the middle of the rear plastic sill plate.

I then used some metal wire to snake the 4-wire harness through the bottom of the plastic panel that connects the front and rear doors. There are two snaps on the bottom – front and rear – that you can pull out to give yourself more room. Once you snaked it through, they snap back in place very easily.

For the front, pull up the weather stripping from the front. The front plastic sill has only two snaps and comes out very easily. I removed it, but you don’t have to. You can see the rolled up 4-wire harness to the left. The harness can be tucked behind the plastic panel for the hood release (you may need to pry it out a little on the bottom).

I didn’t run the 4-wire harness into the engine bay yet because I want to run the RViBrake2 electrical connections to the battery, the RViBrake2 break-away wire, and the 4-wire harness all at the same time through the wire loom. So the only place I don’t have wire loom protecting wires is under the door sill area and the hood release panel. UPS updated my RViBrake2 shipping and now it will be here Monday versus this Friday.

Lastly, I checked the connections by temporarily connecting the 4-wire harness to the 7-to-6 Blue Ox socket and coiled wire and plugged it into the truck. The lights worked as expected.

If anyone wants high-resolution pictures (i.e. 3MB), PM an E-Mail address that accepts large attachments.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	TailLightHousing.jpg
Views:	104
Size:	385.6 KB
ID:	121574   Click image for larger version

Name:	RearSill.jpg
Views:	98
Size:	414.0 KB
ID:	121575  

Click image for larger version

Name:	FrontSill.jpg
Views:	94
Size:	245.5 KB
ID:	121576  
__________________
2014 Forest River Sunseeker 2650S
2015 Ford Focus Titanium Hatchback DCT auto
JoeCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2016, 05:26 PM   #61
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by daydream37 View Post
ALERT! ALERT! The hood profile is slightly different on the 2015-16 Focus Hatchback than the 2014. Ford lowered the hood profile on the newer ones. I had arranged all my components out on the fuse box as shown on the “hdmoxness” solution. I then slowly shut the hood to make sure I had sufficient clearance. The hood would not close. The Battery doctor did not allow the hood to close. I moved it all around to no avail.

I then moved the switch to the side of the battery box closest to the engine and it looked as though that would work. With through bolting it to the box it would make a cleaner installation. I will take a closer look tomorrow.

I suppose you might be able to use the “hdmoxness” solution on the newer Focus but it would require cutting away the thick insulation on the under side of the hood. That would look "wunky" and I am not sure it would still give you enough clearance.

With the ground wire removed and the switch right up against the firewall, my switch doesn't appear to hit. I just used a trouble light and it does come close – but with the hood that closed I really can’t see. But I don’t think I’m hitting. I have some deformable foam (holds shape) and tomorrow I’ll see if it is indeed hitting. Thanks for the tip.
__________________
2014 Forest River Sunseeker 2650S
2015 Ford Focus Titanium Hatchback DCT auto
JoeCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2016, 06:30 PM   #62
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 79
I was going to redo my battery disconnect switch installation tomorrow, but “daydream37” got me concerned about hood clearance. I don’t think mine is touching, but it could be close. I just quickly moved things around, and with the switch on its side you not only gain ¼” (the switch is 3” high but 2 ¾” wide), but it nearly fits totally under the cowling. More tomorrow…
__________________
2014 Forest River Sunseeker 2650S
2015 Ford Focus Titanium Hatchback DCT auto
JoeCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2016, 06:16 AM   #63
Senior Member
 
daydream37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: NE Florida
Posts: 160
It's the thick hood insulation that extends below the cowling when the hood is closed that interferes with the switch.
__________________
2004 Winnebago 30b Motorhome
Accompanied by a 2015 Ford Focus or a 2016 Ducati Scrambler or 2006 BMW R1200RT Sidecar Rig
daydream37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2016, 06:12 PM   #64
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 79
I finally managed to finish the Battery Disconnect on our 2015 Ford Focus Titanium Hatchback with the DCT automatic transmission. The complete parts list is as follows (and were all obtained from Autozone):

1. Battery Disconnect Switch – Duralast DL20387 (this is actually a rebranded WirthCo 20387 Battery Doctor Mini Master Rotary Dial Disconnect Switch)
2. Duralast GT225B – 2 gauge 25” long battery cable
3. Lynx 06069 Universal Terminal (quantity 2)
4. Lynx 07047 Charging Post
5. #10-24 x 1-1/2” Machine screws with nuts (to hold Battery Disconnect Switch bottom on)

Note: The length of a cable is measured from the center of the hole in a terminal or the center of the charging post. If you’re on the careful side like me, you’ll cut a little long and shorten it some more if necessary. Below are my exact measures.

While fitting the negative cables, I had both the negative (first) then positive (second) OEM battery cables disconnected and secured.

First, cut the 25” battery cable into a 14” long piece on the end with the terminal clamp that connects to the battery. Then cut the other end to 5” long on the round terminal side. See photos.

Second, attached a round terminal to the 14” long cable. Then attach another round terminal and charging post to the 5” long cable.

To mount the new cable to the negative side of the battery, make sure the nut you tighten is toward the back of the car. Without removing the battery, I was able to use an open ended wrench to tighten it. But don’t tighten it yet. The cable has to be routed the way the photos shows, and I used a workbench attached vice to make all the bends you’ll need (see photos).

Once the 14” long cable is bent just right, attached it to one end of the battery disconnect switch. You may want to do some more fitting of the cable in the vice to get it to lay flat against the firewall. Then you can remove it and attached the smaller 5” cable after making the 90 degree bend in the vice (the vice made perfect bends).

I was not comfortable with how close the driver’s side battery switch exit terminal came to the OEM ground, so I rotated the OEM ground terminal 90 degrees (had to bent a locating tab on the terminal) and it gave plenty of clearance.

Once you are comfortable with your fit, you can use the screws and nuts to hold the back of the battery switch on. And that’s about it.

I did use a spy cam and light to slowly close the hood (see photo). Nothing moved and nothing touches the hood (actually the hood insulation is what it would hit if something did). It was hard to tell exactly how much clearance there was, but the switch mounted in that position missed by a mile.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	BatteryDisconnectParts.jpg
Views:	110
Size:	207.7 KB
ID:	122001   Click image for larger version

Name:	CableCut.jpg
Views:	134
Size:	201.0 KB
ID:	122002  

Click image for larger version

Name:	FirstCable.jpg
Views:	111
Size:	211.6 KB
ID:	122003   Click image for larger version

Name:	SecondCable.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	206.5 KB
ID:	122004  

Click image for larger version

Name:	CableRouting1.jpg
Views:	120
Size:	343.1 KB
ID:	122005   Click image for larger version

Name:	CableRouting2.jpg
Views:	99
Size:	383.8 KB
ID:	122006  

Click image for larger version

Name:	SpyCam.jpg
Views:	127
Size:	408.1 KB
ID:	122007  
__________________
2014 Forest River Sunseeker 2650S
2015 Ford Focus Titanium Hatchback DCT auto
JoeCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2016, 07:12 PM   #65
Senior Member
 
69Stang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Valdosta, Ga
Posts: 667
Thanks JoeCar.
__________________
1998 Southwind Storm 34S
2015 Ford Focus Hatchback SE
Retired Air Force 1981-2006
69Stang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2016, 07:42 AM   #66
Senior Member
 
computerguy's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Solo Rvers Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,833
Joecar,
in post 56 you were going to use a different rotary switch I believe (20393?) to allow the battery to be charged while powering the brake.
Did you change the design? If so, how are you planning on powering the brake while the battery is disconnected?

Thanks for all the great info. I am still a few weeks from doing mine.
__________________
'16 Bounder 35K - 5 Star Tune, Roadmaster RSSA, CHF F/R, TST-507 TPMS Dish Wally Winegard RoadTrip WeBoost 4G-M WifiRanger EliteAC 960w Solar TS-MPPT-60 600AH Lithium GBS Cells
'16 Ford Focus "Auto" Titanium, Blue Ox Avail towbar and baseplate, RViBrake2
computerguy is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2016, 10:38 AM   #67
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 79
I did buy the 4-position switch but instead will use that on the wooden cabin cruiser we’ve been building over the past 20 years ;o) Yes – I did change the initial design. You can still use the 4-position switch, it is the identical size as the 2-position switch and will work in this case.

My RViBrake2 arrived last week. In this forum and others, I’ve read posts from several nervous people about making sure there are no sneaker circuits to introduce power into the car’s electrical system. “hdmoxness” experienced this when he installed his permanent braking system. He had a post in the Battery Disconnect thread about the dome light coming on when he opened the door - with the negative terminal disconnected. So he ended up disconnecting the positive terminal (not the Ford recommendation).

So I decided to do what many have posted for Fords with the DCT auto transmission, use standalone power via a battery in the passenger’s side. I called up RViBrake2 to ask if they recommended a Marine/RV deep duty cycle over the normal Car Starting type battery. They told me I’m not the only Ford owner to call them and they recommended what they bring to trade shows – Schumacher Electric 750AMP “charging/starting” station you can get at Wal-Mart for $60-70. They said some models have 12V, 120V, and USB output. These things are small and light with a built in handle.

RViBrake2 said the RViBrake2 uses so little power, it lasts all day at trade shows, which probably get more use than driving down the road. I haven’t bought it yet – there are so many different models from Schumacher I’m studying their offerings right now:
Jump Starters - Lead-Acid - Schumacher Electric

I’m not recommending any model yet, but here’s what they look like and are priced at Wal-Mart:
Schumacher Instant Power Jump Starter - Walmart.com

RViBrake2 also said these things are so useful, I’d be using it for more than just the RViBrake2. If so, I may splurge a little. I'm headed out to Wal-Mart to see first hand what this looks like.
__________________
2014 Forest River Sunseeker 2650S
2015 Ford Focus Titanium Hatchback DCT auto
JoeCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2016, 08:46 AM   #68
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 79
I had a chance to look at those small 12V portable power stations. They are small and convenient with a sturdy handle. However, the reviews on Amazon are not very good. First, lots of complaints about batteries lasting only a year. Second, if you check out the replacement batteries, they are small - low A-H compared to a car battery. Additionally, I think I could really use a 12V portable power station that would not only power the RViBrake2, but also larger items that require 120V.

So I looked into building my own with a battery box and various components such as 12V outlet, USB outlet, and enough electrical juice to power a decent size inverter. After assembling a parts list, a came across a 12V “Smart Box” (sometimes called “Trolling Motor Box”) that has everything I want, but already assembled and tested. And the price was right about what it would cost me to build it myself.

I found about half a dozen 12V Smart Boxes, but one seemed to get the best reviews from various sites - MinnKota Trolling Motor Power Center at Amazon for $50. Wal-Mart, Sears, and lots of places carry it, but we’re out in the country and it’s cheaper for UPS to do our driving. The only other Smart Box I found that could be better is the Attwood F27 Battery Box Power Center, but it’s about 50% more expensive.

As for battery, I decided to go with a Deep Cycle Marine battery since this is for 12V portable power and not starting a car (even though it could). I also wanted the battery to a Johnson Controls built battery. Even though the box instructions state Group 24 or 27, several people posting reviews claim then got a Wal-Mart EverStart Maxx Marine Battery, Group Size 29DC to fit in.

One word of caution after reading several reviews. Even though these Smart Boxes have a handle, many say don’t trust them except to move then around once on the ground. This is especially true for the larger batteries like the Group 27 or 29. Carry it around by the side handles. And I know using a BatterMinder charger/maintainer/desulfator I should be able to get 10 years out of the battery.

So this is an overkill for the RViBrake2, but for camping I’ll now have a robust 12V portable power pack that can drive a decent size inverter and charge anything I need (cellphone, Kindle Fire, etc.). And occasionally, I need 12V in my shop.
__________________
2014 Forest River Sunseeker 2650S
2015 Ford Focus Titanium Hatchback DCT auto
JoeCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2016, 11:55 AM   #69
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 79
One last detail. I don't like to leave anything exposed, crazy things can and do happen. I used the plastic terminal cover that same with the 25" battery cable to cover the OEM terminal. I simply cut small relief slots on each side, and ran a cable tie through it to hold it in place. See photo.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	BlackCover.jpg
Views:	100
Size:	390.7 KB
ID:	122141  
__________________
2014 Forest River Sunseeker 2650S
2015 Ford Focus Titanium Hatchback DCT auto
JoeCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2016, 07:34 AM   #70
Senior Member
 
billyb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: bel air, md
Posts: 766
one thing i was wondering is..... why can't i run a new separate battery cable from the negative side of the batterey to a bolt on the transmission case to provide a more positive conection for the tranny.
__________________

__________________
'08 33' Windsport Ford 22k towing Ford Focus SE
billyb is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
ford, tow, towing



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Help Please: Towing Ford Focus with Thor Challenger rbmartiniv Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 6 11-01-2015 08:30 AM
Towing a 2016 Ford Explorer? Sammie Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 4 10-11-2015 05:28 PM
2015 Ford Focus Automatic is flat towable Still Bill Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 24 08-30-2015 04:40 AM
Ford Flex with push button start flat towing DAJO Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 2 03-25-2015 04:29 PM
WILL BRAKE BUDDY WORK, FLAT TOWING MY 2013 Ford F-150 4x4 rcestes Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 4 04-13-2014 12:19 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:48 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.