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Old 03-30-2016, 12:42 PM   #71
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one thing i was wondering is..... why can't i run a new separate battery cable from the negative side of the batterey to a bolt on the transmission case to provide a more positive conection for the tranny.
Billyb - not sure what you are attempting to accomplish. The primary goal is to not inject any power into the transmission (actually the whole car). And the reason for keeping the tail lights separate is who knows what sneak electric circuit could exist should a diode fail. By disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery you accomplish 100% of what is needed to keep the transmission from changing state.
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Old 03-30-2016, 01:50 PM   #72
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Ford focus

Because the ground that ford uses is connected thru the cars body steel, and after awhile corrosion CAn creep into the cable end where it is attached to the fender well and create a bad connection.
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Old 03-30-2016, 07:13 PM   #73
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Because the ground that ford uses is connected thru the cars body steel, and after awhile corrosion CAn creep into the cable end where it is attached to the fender well and create a bad connection.
Understand. However, from an electrical standpoint it does not matter since it is not the transmission case itself Ford is worried about, but instead the computer that changes the gears. Put another way, say the transmission case lost all ground (which I don't think is possible), the computer itself could still change gears if its electrical connection remains intact. If there were someway for rust to break the ground to both the transmission and the computer that changes gears - you effectively have a localized battery disconnect protecting the transmission during toad use. From a DC perspective, either you have "+" and "-" connected, or you don't. This is why disconnecting the Positive Terminal works for some users - even though it is neither recommended (by Ford) nor safe (when you change batteries, you always disconnect the negative first).
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Old 04-09-2016, 11:03 AM   #74
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After disconnecting the battery using JoeCar's method why not use the disconnected battery as your power source for the RViBrake2? After disconnecting, isn't the battery a standalone unit? There is no connection between the grounds of the RViBrake2 and the car. Your disconnect is further downstream and should not pick up a stray ground.
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Old 04-09-2016, 11:59 AM   #75
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focus

i would think as long as you disconnect both positive and negative, there should be no problem. you just don't want any chance of any stray current getting back to the tranny
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Old 04-09-2016, 06:02 PM   #76
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After disconnecting, isn't the battery a standalone unit? There is no connection between the grounds of the RViBrake2 and the car. Your disconnect is further downstream and should not pick up a stray ground.
You are correct. However, I'm just a little paranoid - and I'm not alone as RViBrake technical support told me I wasn't the only Focus/Fiesta owner asking about using RViBrake with a portable 12V power supply.

So I bought one of those "Smart Battery Boxes" and put it in the passenger's side floor. I went with an EverStart Max 29DC. I can now use that as a portable 12V power source or for the RViBrake2.
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Old 04-09-2016, 09:28 PM   #77
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You know that I am very close to completion of the installation of the tow package. I tested the light kit with the motor home umbilical and it went well. The base plate is installed, the lights work, my last thing to do is to hook up the RVibrake2. For the life of me I can't find a way to get a two wire 12ga power cord from the engine compartment to the cockpit. I really don't want to drill a hole in the firewall. I am open to suggestions.
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Old 04-10-2016, 07:24 AM   #78
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You know that I am very close to completion of the installation of the tow package. I tested the light kit with the motor home umbilical and it went well. The base plate is installed, the lights work, my last thing to do is to hook up the RVibrake2. For the life of me I can't find a way to get a two wire 12ga power cord from the engine compartment to the cockpit. I really don't want to drill a hole in the firewall. I am open to suggestions.
Did you remove the soft plastic grommet where the clutch pedal would be located if you had a standard transmission? I ran both the RViBrake2 brakeaway wire and 1/2" wire loom (containing the lights electrical wires) through there. I ran the wires and loom between the battery and fuse boxes and had room to spare.

You can also run it on the passenger side using a factory grommet - no drilling. Here's a video:
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:01 AM   #79
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There is another unused hole about 3/4" dia way up high in the driver side front wheel well. It is relatively close to the cars battery and is up high under the dash so wires are kept short and protected. Remove the plastic wheel well inner liner and a foam insulation pillow near the drivers door hinges to get to it. If you go down thru the clutch pedal hole you are getting close to the hot exhaust system. Not so easy to reach but it's where I ran all the light and brake system wires.
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Old 04-10-2016, 07:06 PM   #80
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There is another unused hole about 3/4" dia way up high in the driver side front wheel well. It is relatively close to the cars battery and is up high under the dash so wires are kept short and protected. Remove the plastic wheel well inner liner and a foam insulation pillow near the drivers door hinges to get to it. If you go down thru the clutch pedal hole you are getting close to the hot exhaust system. Not so easy to reach but it's where I ran all the light and brake system wires.
I just took a look and not sure how to find this. "Remove the plastic wheel well inner liner..." - is this done from the inside of the car or outside? Do you have a picture you could send?
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:12 PM   #81
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I will have to take a look tomorrow. I love this forum. Thanks guys.
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Old 04-11-2016, 05:43 AM   #82
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I installed a Ready Brake and breakaway kit, so I had to drill holes for those. I also installed a Brake Light LED. I ended up running those 2 wires through the same grommet that the Hood Release Cable runs through. Comes our right behind the battery.
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Old 04-11-2016, 08:57 AM   #83
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The plastic wheel liner is on the outside of the car above the tire. It covers the entire wheel well(top, front and rear). Its above the tire and inside the fender. After you take off the front tire remove a few screws and plastic buttons and it drops down and comes right out. You have to remove this liner when installing your baseplate. The foam insulation to remove is between the backside of the fender panel and the cars unibody frame near the driver door hinges. It is held in place with just a little light adhesive that comes loose pretty easy. Sorry I don't have pictures but there are pictures in the blue ox baseplate install instructions.
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Old 04-11-2016, 04:42 PM   #84
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The plastic wheel liner is on the outside of the car above the tire. It covers the entire wheel well(top, front and rear). Its above the tire and inside the fender. After you take off the front tire remove a few screws and plastic buttons and it drops down and comes right out. You have to remove this liner when installing your baseplate. The foam insulation to remove is between the backside of the fender panel and the cars unibody frame near the driver door hinges. It is held in place with just a little light adhesive that comes loose pretty easy. Sorry I don't have pictures but there are pictures in the blue ox baseplate install instructions.
Thanks. I installed a BlueOx baseplate and didn't have to remove it. One key detail I have learned - Next time I prep a car for flat-4 towing, have all the parts available on day one. With the front fascia off - you have greater access to installing all these things. Because I have never done this before, I ended up buying one item at a time (baseplate first) just in case of failure. In the end, it was easier than I anticipated.
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