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Old 04-22-2016, 08:19 AM   #99
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Thanks Carter. I'll give that try.

I can also see myself muttering under my breathe remembering I needed something out of the back after I've disconnected the battery.
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Old 04-22-2016, 08:38 AM   #100
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Thanks Carter. I'll give that try.

I can also see myself muttering under my breathe remembering I needed something out of the back after I've disconnected the battery.
Yea, I have that exact same problem. I do have a manual lock on the drivers door that I can open. I do dislike crawling over the seat to fetch something.
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Old 04-22-2016, 10:41 AM   #101
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I'm hoping after 1 or 2 times of doing that I will have learned my lesson. In reality, it'll probably take 9 or 10 times
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Old 04-24-2016, 09:36 AM   #102
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Hey 69Stang,
Before you bother to get a new key I suggest you trial run the Ford tow prep including disconnecting the battery just to see how it works on your car. The way my '12 works is that when you turn the key "off" it stops just before the off position and will not come out of the ignition switch but as soon as the battery is disconnected you can turn it just a tad further and it comes out with no problem.
One other obvious issue I have run into is that after you disconnect the battery you cannot operate any electric door locks or rear hatch latch. So if you want to lock the passenger doors (they only have electric locks) or get into the rear hatch you better do it before the battery is disconnected. I have to admit that I don't alway remember this little detail.
I hooked everything up yesterday and did a practice tow for a few miles and everything worked flawless. Disconnecting the battery allowed me to remove the key just as you described. Thanks.
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:09 AM   #103
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I hooked everything up yesterday and did a practice tow for a few miles and everything worked flawless. Disconnecting the battery allowed me to remove the key just as you described. Thanks.
Now I have to try it.
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Old 04-25-2016, 06:04 AM   #104
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I will be doing my test run this week in advance of my "big trip" next week.
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Old 04-26-2016, 12:29 AM   #105
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Hey 69Stang,
Before you bother to get a new key I suggest you trial run the Ford tow prep including disconnecting the battery just to see how it works on your car. The way my '12 works is that when you turn the key "off" it stops just before the off position and will not come out of the ignition switch but as soon as the battery is disconnected you can turn it just a tad further and it comes out with no problem.
One other obvious issue I have run into is that after you disconnect the battery you cannot operate any electric door locks or rear hatch latch. So if you want to lock the passenger doors (they only have electric locks) or get into the rear hatch you better do it before the battery is disconnected. I have to admit that I don't alway remember this little detail.
Thank You. I have towed my 2012 focus about 30,000 miles with the key in the ignition. I just went out and tried it and it worked. You made my life a bit easier and I learned something new.
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Old 04-27-2016, 06:06 PM   #106
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Took the Motorhome with the Focus attached for a spin. No problem, everything worked flawlessly. RVi2 Brake system did what it was supposed to do and the lights worked fine and of course the tow bar and attachments worked great.

I did notice that the RVi2 Brake system fit "to the quick" between the rise for the seat pan and the brake. Just enough space. I will send a picture of the complete rig when we take off next week.

Thank you everyone for your support and advice. I wouldn't have tried without it.

Tom
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:29 PM   #107
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New E-trailer 2015 Ford Focus BlueOx Baseplate video - IMHO best one yet.
https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-...us-bx2654.aspx

Note: I can only get it to work in MS IE or MS Edge (no Firefox or Chrome).
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Old 04-30-2016, 07:58 PM   #108
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New E-trailer 2015 Ford Focus BlueOx Baseplate video - IMHO best one yet.
https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-...us-bx2654.aspx

Note: I can only get it to work in MS IE or MS Edge (no Firefox or Chrome).
That was a great video. Quick question JoeCar. The 2 drill bots needed did they need to be anything special? I remember reading earlier of people noting that it was super hard and needing a special bit.
Alsom any known discounts on the RViBrake2?
Thanks again
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Old 05-01-2016, 01:54 AM   #109
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Found I still need two keys, the second one is to lock the doors before the battery is disconnected. Once the battery is disconnected I can manually open the driver door and remove the key from the ignition.
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:22 AM   #110
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That was a great video. Quick question JoeCar. The 2 drill bots needed did they need to be anything special? I remember reading earlier of people noting that it was super hard and needing a special bit.
Alsom any known discounts on the RViBrake2?
Thanks again
The only super hard metal is the front bumper that was drilled through in earlier videos. The other metal is also hard, but not that bad, and just takes patience. To drill those two holes on the bottom of each side I used both my cheap Harbor Freight drills and Dewalt Cobalt drills. I started with a small pilot hole, and gradually went larger, and it went fairly quick.

I've never seen RViBrake2 "on sale" anywhere.
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:18 AM   #111
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Well, FWIW, I got the separate blue ox tail lights installed. Yes, I got some of the black stuff inside the lens. Not much one can do to avoid this as it seems when you drill it creates static and those plastic parts like to stick to each other. Was able to vacuum most of it out.
Tried to do the blue ox base plate and gave up. I was soooo close. Had the nose all apart and baseplate in place but I just could not drill the holes into the frame. I don't have a lift so it is even harder to drill through that metal upside down in all sort of contorted ways (was trying to drill up into the frame for the bolts holding the baseplate into the frame). So, I put it all back together and now I am off to see who can do this in the area. I am thinking a collision shop would be best suited. Not going anywhere near an RV shop that is for sure.
Any other suggestions please let me know.
Thanks
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:56 AM   #112
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Too bad you had so much trouble drilling the access holes. I don't know what tool you were using or if you are up for another go at it but here are some suggestions.
- If you use a hole saw it is going to take a LOT of pressure to penetrate and cut. Use a very low speed and press HARD or you are just rubbing and dulling the bit. Use the highest quality hole saw you can get. Don't be surprised if two holes takes two bits. You could try an abrasive type hole saw. It won't take as much pressure but it may just gum up the abrasive. Cutting oil would help that.
- If you use a common spiral flute HSS drill bit. Start with a pilot hole about 1/8" dia. and then step up with increasingly larger drill bits that have a web thicknesss (the flat part at the end of the drill between the two cutting edges) about the same as the previously drilled hole size. Use a lower cutting speed for the larger drill sizes. Try to keep the pressure down and not make a 3 corner hole. Be careful and prepared for the drill bit to grab and twist and pull HARD when it breaks through into the hollow bumper. Using a larger drill motor makes the grab and twist even more dangerous. You are likely going to chip some cutting edges on the bits. It could be dangerous to your hands or shatter a drill bit. Say gloves and eye protection. If you aren't pretty experienced with using a hand drill I would stay away from this method altogether.
- You could also use smaller diameter abrasive cutoff disks mounted on an air drill (Harbor Freight would have them) and cut a square hole. Something larger than an electric Dremel tool. May not be as nice looking job as a round hole but easier than drilling. You could maybe do a bit neater job if you drilled out the four corners with say a 3/8" bit first (start with an 1/8" pilot hole). Eye protection is a must.
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