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Old 05-15-2016, 05:27 AM   #113
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Good info.. I'm not attempting again.
I didn't even attempt the top large hole. I do have a dremel and pretty sure that would have done the job for that albeit a square hole.
The problem was the holes underneath. I was attempting the pilot hole with a 3/16th bit on my electric drill. It looked about half way through when I gave up. Just too much effort was needed to get to that point. No way was I going to spend the whole day alone, trying to drill, upside down, in the FL heat, on my back trying to make it happen.
Wanted to let others know this is a major undertaking - drilling the holes. The rest was simple even though lifting the base plate to test fit by myself was interesting to say the least.
It'll be a satisfying couple of hundred dollars to spend knowing the hole drilling is so ridiculous hard.
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Old 05-15-2016, 06:39 AM   #114
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That metal is some kind of super hard stuff. I used a cutoff wheel because my drill bit would have taken forever.


Blue Ox must be mounted differently then Roadmaster, I only had to do one hole in the end of each frame end.
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Old 05-15-2016, 09:32 AM   #115
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I had no problems with the 1 1/4 holes on top. I used a good quality hole saw. The bolt holes underneath were fairly easy also. Putting the nuts on the bolts is another story. That took the better half of the day.
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Old 05-15-2016, 07:53 PM   #116
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Nice article on Ford Focus as Toad:
Go Gear: How we tow | WinnebaGoLife
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Old 05-30-2016, 06:55 AM   #117
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The saga contnues.
So, Ford said they would install the baseplate for 255 (3 hours at 85/hour) I say great and drop the car off at 8AM letting them know I will be waiting for it.
11:45 I get a call saying they are looking at the instructions and "does this thing go on the front or the back?"

I say never mind and get the car as quickly as possible from these nut cases. Off I drive to home depot to get a metal hole saw and 2 titanium bits 1/8" and 3/8".
A half hour later the nose of the car is off again and holes being drilled. FYI, wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt. That metal being bored out is hot. Ask me how I know.
Agreed, getting the nuts on those bolts is an exercise in patience. But I am successful.

Key points, get the right drill bits, have tremendous patience getting the bolts on, it's easier on a lift but can be done on the ground (did mine on the ground), I could have trimmed less of the radiator trim.
I need to adjust my horn on the driver side as it is tight against the frame I believe and sounds a bit weird. It needs to be free to vibrate properly (a least that's my thought on it. It is very tight with the baseplate installed.

Next project is the battery disconnects (I am doing positive and negative disconnects for extra safety)
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Old 05-31-2016, 07:40 AM   #118
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Good job - and that's why we do {almost} everything ourselves. We canceled 3 trips this spring so we haven't yet tried out the new Focus being towed. We needed a complete kitchen makeover - but as you experienced with your local dealer - we decided to do the work ourselves. If you want something done right, do it yourself.
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Old 07-02-2016, 07:10 PM   #119
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Really? I flat tow a 2016 and never wait more than 10 seconds for the transmission to indicate READY. It's the same amount of time it takes when I start the car first thing in the morning. Surprised you are concerned.
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Old 08-23-2016, 07:52 AM   #120
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Well, my coach is finally out of warranty work at Lazydays (but not done yet!). Another story. Another post for that. Lesson learned - NEVER bring your rv to Lazydays for work.
Did my first 4 wheel down trip around the block a few times. All went well. It is quite different than towing a trailer.
My RViBrake arrives this weekend so the nose will come off again to install the final touches.
I ended up doing 2 battery disconnects. One for the positive and one for the negative. Didn't want to take any chances. Plus I order the switches with off, battery 1 and battery 2. This way I can use
Battery 1 for normal use.
Off, well off is off. It is not connected to anything.
Battery 2 then connects to the coach, the car battery, and a 12v connection used for the brake system inside the vehicle. This setup keeps the car battery fully charged and isolates the car battery from the car wiring (I did the separate wiring harness and added lights to the rear). Should the car come detached the RViBrake is still attached to the battery and will stop the car.
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Old 08-23-2016, 06:52 PM   #121
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Have not read all 9 pages. I assume it's all be hashed and re-hashed. Glad to see OP found the earlier definitive thread on it.

People who have not researched towing a Ford with the battery disconnect recommendation should tread lightly before posting that they would not disconnect it. It's not about running down the battery. It's about making sure the transmission cannot activate and destroy itself.

You can disconnect the positive if you want. It makes absolutely no difference. However it is safer to disconnect the negative. Judgement call. On my 2013, it would have been much easier to disconnect the positive from an access point of view. I would have done the longer cable to the negative mod, with a quality disconnect switch.

Do Not just disconnect the ground cable at the firewall. Again, I assume I'm repeating something that has already been written.

So, yes, disconnect the battery. At the battery. Negative or positive. If the positive, understand the risks!

Carry on.
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Old 08-24-2016, 07:10 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by computerguy View Post
I ended up doing 2 battery disconnects. One for the positive and one for the negative. Didn't want to take any chances. Plus I order the switches with off, battery 1 and battery 2. This way I can use
Battery 1 for normal use.
Off, well off is off. It is not connected to anything.
Battery 2 then connects to the coach, the car battery, and a 12v connection used for the brake system inside the vehicle. This setup keeps the car battery fully charged and isolates the car battery from the car wiring (I did the separate wiring harness and added lights to the rear). Should the car come detached the RViBrake is still attached to the battery and will stop the car.
Any pictures?
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Old 08-24-2016, 07:33 PM   #123
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Not complete but close. The battery disconnects need to be in a very specific location to not hit the hood. They do hit the heat/soundproofing but mine is really think and it compresses easily enough not to hit the actual hood.
As said earlier the line from the coach (5 pin connector on the car) needs to b connected when the nose comes off this weekend to install the RViBrake breakaway.
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Old 08-25-2016, 07:01 AM   #124
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I had my local radio installer connect the battery to the the 12 volt socket on the cockpit console. I made sure the he understood that the neg and pos poles have no interface with the car circuit. That way i could disconnect the neg cable from the battery and still have power in the cockpit for my i2rv.
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:05 AM   #125
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Quote:
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I had my local radio installer connect the battery to the the 12 volt socket on the cockpit console. I made sure the he understood that the neg and pos poles have no interface with the car circuit. That way i could disconnect the neg cable from the battery and still have power in the cockpit for my i2rv.
Are you actually disconnecting the negative cable from the battery? It is all the way in the back and next to impossible to get to on my '16.
I added a 12v socket in the cokpit to the right of the steering wheel. I didn't want to mess with the factory one because I use it for my dash cam and it is controlled by the ignition which is what I want.
I am happy with the setup with my 2 disconnects.
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:10 AM   #126
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Quote:
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As said earlier the line from the coach (5 pin connector on the car) needs to b connected when the nose comes off this weekend to install the RViBrake breakaway.
Well done. As for the RViBrake away, BlueOX has two versions of the bracket that the brakaway switch can be attached to.
Per the pictures here:
Search for Blue Ox Baseplate | Blue Ox

One bracket is long and flat and connects horizontally to the bottom of the radiator support. The other mounts vertically to the baseplate ( for baseplates with Serial# lower than 00045). I had the later one that is long and flat. Even thought I have a hatchback, my bracket looks like the one for sedan. I did not have to take the nose off, but simply remove the 6 push pins on the bottom of the fascia and pull the under tray down to access the radiator support. It was a 10 minute job.
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