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Old 05-02-2005, 03:05 PM   #1
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I have never towed anything before. My Fleetwood Montara has a 4 pin electrically harness in the back. Can someone tell me how to hook this up to my 1986 Chevy Nova?

I have the Unified Braking system from US Gear and am slowly installing the various parts of it. I do not understand where the power brake PUMP is suppose to be installed? It says in a line going to the engine. I would think you would place it in the POWER BRAKE line? But US Gear advertised this system as not being INVASIVE.

Regardless I do not think I need that PUMP. For the time being I intend to tow the Nova with the engine running and in neutral. Given this situation there would be no need to add something on to the power brakes since the engine would be on.

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Old 05-02-2005, 03:05 PM   #2
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I have never towed anything before. My Fleetwood Montara has a 4 pin electrically harness in the back. Can someone tell me how to hook this up to my 1986 Chevy Nova?

I have the Unified Braking system from US Gear and am slowly installing the various parts of it. I do not understand where the power brake PUMP is suppose to be installed? It says in a line going to the engine. I would think you would place it in the POWER BRAKE line? But US Gear advertised this system as not being INVASIVE.

Regardless I do not think I need that PUMP. For the time being I intend to tow the Nova with the engine running and in neutral. Given this situation there would be no need to add something on to the power brakes since the engine would be on.

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Old 05-02-2005, 03:16 PM   #3
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So does this means it will be accumulating miles as you tow. I suspect yes plus it will not do your engine very much good to idle all day long every day you tow.

The four pin connect is for the brake and running lights to your toad. I do not remember the color code but white is ground, brown is running lights, yellow is left trun and green is right turn. The four pin connector has nothing to do with the braking system in your toad.

You need to hook up the braking system per the manufacture instruction or take it back and get your money back and buy a Brake Buddy or some such sustem.
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Old 05-02-2005, 07:32 PM   #4
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I have the SMI braking system that uses a vacuum pump to work the power brakes just like when the car is running. The SMI pump line tees into the big brake vacuum hose between the engine (at the back of the intake manifold) and the brake booster. Your instruction should make it clear where to install the pump. If not, call the manufacturer for tech support.

Also- there's no way I'd tow a car with the engine idling all day. Extended idling isn't good for any engine- especially gas ones. In addition to the extra engine wear and fuel burned, it'll create heavy carbon buildup in the cylinders which will lead to poor economy and dieseling.
It's your car, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Good luck,
Dave
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Old 05-03-2005, 12:14 PM   #5
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I am only going to tow with the engine of the toad running until I can get the lube pump. I only travel for an hour or so and then stop for a rest, anyway.

The Remco lube pump has to have a hole drilled in the transmission pan and a connector put into the hole. Then the pump is connected through the hole.

I would really prefer the axle disconnect device but they do not make one for my 1986 Chevy Nova. However, this car is really a Toyota Corolla made for Chevy in 1986 and with the Nova name on it. Maybe there is an axle disconnect made for the Toyota Corolla?

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Old 05-03-2005, 12:46 PM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by zetron:
My Fleetwood Montara has a 4 pin electrically harness in the back. Can someone tell me how to hook this up to my 1986 Chevy Nova? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Here's a schematic for connecting a 4 pin harness to a boat, if you'll mentally substitute your car in place of the boat it should work out about the same.

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Old 05-03-2005, 03:49 PM   #7
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The US Gear Unified Tow Brake is an excellent system. However, it is critical that it be installed correctly. There was a bad connection in ours that was difficult to locate. It caused the brakes to engage when they weren't supposed to.

The tech that installed ours put the brake pump under the driver seat of the car, then ran the cables under the floormat to the brake pedals, where the pressure is applied to the brakes pedal. The labor for installation was $400, but well worth it.
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Old 05-04-2005, 06:23 PM   #8
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Thanks for the 4 pin schematic. I think I will run the three wires back to the lights and connect them there with the white wire connected to the negative post of the battery.

I think that you are suppose to put diodes in the ciruit. I have a schematic for doing that with a Jeep, should work for my 1986 Chevy Nova too. I am electronic experimenter so I have plenty of diodes. I suppose I need to find the BIG ones that can take 12 volts and use them. Somewhere I read that the ones sold at RV places run $10.00 each.

Thank you fr the information about the Unified Brake system. I have ran the line in the motorhome and will do some of the connections there and in the Nova. What I cannot do is put the pump and selinod in. I have a neighborhood mechanic who I think will do that reasonably.

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Old 05-04-2005, 06:50 PM   #9
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Your US Gear installation sheets should sahow that there is a tee fitting and check valve that goes in the vacuum line from the engine's intake manifold to the power brake vacuum booster. While it's true that you'll have enough vacuum with the engine running, and you won't need the pump, it's only a temporary thing. As mentioned, leaving it running won't do the engine any favors so once you get the Remco stuff hooked up you'll want that pump.

Also, US Gear shows (and includes) a seperate 2 wire hookup that you can add to run the battery and brake trigger lines to the toad. I chose to utilize a 6 wire umbilical cord and use the two extra wires. It's a lot easier and cleaner that way.

If for some reason you don't have the installation diagram Click Here to access the on-line version. It is considered a non-invasive system from the standpoint that it doesn't invade the hydraulics of the toad. However, it does invade the vacuum line but in such a mode that if the US Gear stuff was to fail, you'd still have brakes on the toad while driving it.
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Old 05-05-2005, 07:44 AM   #10
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Mark: Thank you for the info. I have already made up a 4 pin connector and strung the US Gear wires from the back to the front of my motorhome. Now I need to find the ignition wire and the brake "hot" wire on this cutaway Ford 350 van.

I already have a TEE in the vacuum line in the Nova that goes to the Charcol canister, this is for a platinium gas saving injector bubbler. But in this location it does not seem to bubble all the time (vacuum is not constant).

I have the 4 pin harness wire strung out on the ground next to the Nova. I will locate the positive wires on the right and left turn signals and the licence plate light and follow them back to the front and splice in the green, yellow and brown wires. Have to look in my 'diode bag' and dig up some FAT 12 volt diodes.

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Old 05-05-2005, 08:42 AM   #11
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If you have room in the tail light assembly to add a third bulb you can install the brake,running and tail light to the third blub direct.

No diodes or any thing. Just a set of wires from the front to the back of the toad. Check with blue ox or some one because you will need bulb sockets with a ground wire.
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Old 05-05-2005, 12:18 PM   #12
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by zetron:
Have to look in my 'diode bag' and dig up some FAT 12 volt diodes.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

David,

If you can't find any suitable diodes in your 'diode bag', try Radio Shack.

I picked up a package of four last year to use for a tow bar arrangement on my Jeep, they were less than $3 for the pack. They're rated at 6 amps and 50 volts peak, plenty to handle the brake light current. I used the two extra ones in the tail light circuit as an added precaution to prevent voltage from feeding back and illuminating the dash and front parking lights.
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Old 05-05-2005, 03:34 PM   #13
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I could set a bulb in each turn indicator light and run the green and yellow wires to them. I would not have to worry about the license plate light since i never travel at night. But I could do the same there too.


I have a lot of auto 12 volt bulbs around and there is certainly enough space for another bulb in the rear turn light cavities.

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Old 05-05-2005, 06:47 PM   #14
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If you pick up a standard socvket at an auto parts store, you can use the #1157 dual filament bulbs to run both tail and stop-turn filaments in the same bulb. You will have to solder a ground wire to the socket but that's no big deal, especially for an electronic guy.

Blue Ox makes a diode kit if you don't want to go through the hassle. Here's a Link to one at RVupgrades.com.
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