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Old 01-01-2017, 11:15 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Ominous Z06 View Post
I'm looking to make up a new/back-up sling cable similar to yours, Fire Up. What type/thickness of cable did you go with?

Eric
Eric,
Incredibly sorry for the late reply but, we've been out of town since before Christmas and, just got back home. The cable I used is regular cable, pretty sure it was 1/8" or 3/16" inch stuff from Home Depot. The term "Air craft quality" is well, sometimes over stated. You're pulling on a brake arm in a vehicle, not towing the U.S.S. Enterprise into dock. A 1/8" standard cable has a seriously higher breaking point than what's required to pull that brake arm on a standard toad. People can argue that an "Aircraft quality" is mandatory. Well, choose what they may, it's their Jeep/toad. In the 10,000 or more miles we towed three different toads, including one of our present toads, a 5300 lb. GMC Sierra 1500 4x4, none of my "home made" (Home Depot) cables EVER broke. So, I hope I've answered some or, any questions you may have had.
Scott
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Old 01-24-2017, 07:57 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
Eric,
Incredibly sorry for the late reply but, we've been out of town since before Christmas and, just got back home. The cable I used is regular cable, pretty sure it was 1/8" or 3/16" inch stuff from Home Depot. The term "Air craft quality" is well, sometimes over stated. You're pulling on a brake arm in a vehicle, not towing the U.S.S. Enterprise into dock. A 1/8" standard cable has a seriously higher breaking point than what's required to pull that brake arm on a standard toad. People can argue that an "Aircraft quality" is mandatory. Well, choose what they may, it's their Jeep/toad. In the 10,000 or more miles we towed three different toads, including one of our present toads, a 5300 lb. GMC Sierra 1500 4x4, none of my "home made" (Home Depot) cables EVER broke. So, I hope I've answered some or, any questions you may have had.
Scott
Are there any special provisions that have to be made so the brakes lights work on the toad, like having the key in a special position or anything else? What about a car with no key but push button start? Also, is there any need for your typical towing wiring harness of any type that plugs into the back of the MH? It would seem to there wouldn't be any need for one with this ReadyBrake System?
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Old 01-25-2017, 01:57 PM   #17
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I pull a Jeep Wrangler. The brake lights operate when the pedal is pushed (or pulled by the Readybrute in this case). So, that works fine.


But, you still need turn signals and lights, these would have to be powered from your motorhome as with any other system.


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Old 01-25-2017, 03:39 PM   #18
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nice

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Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
Surge brakes are fickle, at best. Terrain always changes so it won't respond the same every time.

Where Sir may I ask, did you come up with that theory? There's thousands of them in use, not only by members of IRV2 but, many other RV forums and, those thousands that are not members of forums at all. I would think that if they were that inaccurate, the word would get out and, there would be way less sales of them than there are. We used the "Ready Brake" for several years until I wore it out. By that time, we had acquired a D/P and decided to change over to the M & G braking system.

Tying into the coaches air brake system, might be terrifying for some but, in all reality, it's a very simple tie-in. You're instructed to cut a very specific air line, install a "Tee" and run a 1/4" line to the rear of the coach, DONE! Anyway, as for the Ready Brake being "fickle", well, not exactly sure why you're labeling it that way. Ours was quite dependable, and worked the same, every time I applied the brakes.

The only thing about NSAs Ready Brake that I didn't like was the hookup to the brake pedal and, the really ding-a-ling way of adjusting the link cable. I sh..t canned all of that mess and installed my own link cable with a Marine, Stainless steel turn buckle in line. Waaaaaaaaaaaay better and seriously more simple. With that system, if needed, you can adjust that cable in a heartbeat, when ever one desires and, WITH NO TOOLS.

As for the attachment to the brake pedal, that too from NSA was/is rather "cave man". In its place, I drilled the brake pedal, installed a pin, and, placed a brass screen door roller on the end of the cable and, crimped my own cable ferrule to lock that roller in. Now, when it comes time to hook up for towing, The wife simply reached under the floor mat and, grabs that cable end with the roller on it, sets it on the pin on the brake arm and, installs a hitch pin to keep it all in place, DONE!

When not towing, that cable is instantly removed and, tucked away under the floor mat. No additional wear to that system that way, by excessive moving of that cable back and forth while driving the toad. Not only that, but you don't have that hideous looking set of bar clamps and all that permanently tied to the brake arm.
Scott








I wish I had seen your post before I installed mine. I love the quick disconnect pedal modification and never thought about wear on the cable during non-towing activities.

The turnbuckle is GENUIS - that was the single toughest adjustment on the whole install!
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Old 01-14-2018, 03:44 PM   #19
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Break away cable?

I know this is an old thread and maybe a new one should be started. Just let me know. But FIRE UP, if I could get some more information about how the break away cable is attached would be appreciated.
Thank you.
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Old 01-14-2018, 04:31 PM   #20
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nice job
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Old 01-14-2018, 05:40 PM   #21
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I know this is an old thread and maybe a new one should be started. Just let me know. But FIRE UP, if I could get some more information about how the break away cable is attached would be appreciated.
Thank you.
saberg,
I'll get flamed for this but, there was no "break-away" cable. I have never had a break away cable in any breaking system. I have my reasons. The pictures you see are how I setup the operation cable and attachments.
Scott
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Old 01-14-2018, 06:15 PM   #22
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Top notch work. Thanks.
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Old 05-31-2018, 12:18 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Coral View Post
A simple inexpensive toad braking system.

A picture is worth a thousand words.

It does not tie into your coach air brakes, and there is nothing to take in and out of your toad when you are done towing.

Hi, this is a great system! This kind of tow hitch is available in England. However, strangely, the braking system is not. Anybody know how I can get one?
RV's are becoming very popular in this country and people are hauling cars around without proper braking. Looking forward to your replies guys. Frank.
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Old 05-31-2018, 01:41 PM   #24
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Hi, this is a great system! This kind of tow hitch is available in England. However, strangely, the braking system is not. Anybody know how I can get one?
RV's are becoming very popular in this country and people are hauling cars around without proper braking. Looking forward to your replies guys. Frank.
Its called Ready Brake.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Ready...B72F1D8AC02A36
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Old 05-31-2018, 02:35 PM   #25
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Thanks.

Thanks very much for the link
There's a market for these in the UK.
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Old 05-31-2018, 04:45 PM   #26
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This is one great easy system. Been using 4 years .
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Old 06-01-2018, 11:11 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by oldmattb View Post
Three concerns pop into mind:

1. Is there and adjustment for weight? A 6k truck would behave differently than a 2K car (like my Echo).

2. Needs to compensate fir inertia on hills. If one braked the RV on a long downhill, the towd would likely remain in the braking mode until the RV accelerated briskly,

3. No provision for break-away, unless there is a spring somewhere I don't see.

Matt B
1. A 6K truck exerts more inertia than a 2K car thus causing more pulling force on the cable that pulls the brake pedal down. No additional adjustment is necessary. Most folks way over think the cable adjustment and end up with a cable that is too tight.

2. The system contains in internal spring that prevents activation as a result of going down hill and prevents toad braking unless the motorhome is braking too.

3. Brake-away can be purchased separately for about $100. Additionally, the brake-away system is fully independent of the ReadyBrake system. You can install the break-away system on any vehicle regardless of the brand of your toad brake system and even if you have no toad brake system at all.

After years of use, I have found nothing "fickle" as someone claims and terrain has no impact on operation of the ReadyBrake.

I did install a light on the dash of the motorhome that is directly connected to the toad brake light switch so I can monitor actual activation of the toad brakes. ReadyBrake provides a switch on the ReadyBrake actuating arm for a dash light. However, their switch shows when the ReadyBrake is activated and not necessarily when the toad brakes are activated.
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