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Old 08-18-2016, 07:14 AM   #1
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Acme Dolly axle seal leak and binding brake

On our last trip out west I noticed on the TPMS that the left dolly wheel was running warmer than the right and there was a little oil on the wheel. I also noticed the left side "Vault" hub piston didn't appear to be poking out of the hub, the right side looked OK.

When we got home I pulled the wheels to inspect the brakes. WOAH. The outer pad on the left side was worn almost completely out. the inner pad was worn a little, but was heat stressed and cracked. The pads on the right side looked almost new.


It appeared that the oil was leaking out of the axle from the rear seal, and the oil was causing the brake to bind.

I contacted UFP (The folks that make the axle for Acme) and their tech walked me through how to replace the brakes and rebuild the seals on the axle.

He also gave me a couple pointers on how to make the job easier, i.e. drill a hole in the lower frame so you can reach the lower caliper bolt with a socket wrench.

Also suggestions on how to make sure the leak doesn't happen again.

They sent me new seals and grease for the both hubs at no charge under their 5 year warranty.

I wrote up the entire process, with photos on my sire:

http://www.2001mirada.com/acme-brakes-and-axle/

..

Very good customer support from UFP.


..
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Old 08-18-2016, 05:01 PM   #2
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Acme Dolly axle seal leak and binding brake

I had to do this last winter. One side of mine leaked on the inner, the other on the outer. As of today after my careful rebuild, no leaks. I rebuilt the calipers as well since I too had one very worn pad and the remaining three were about the same lessor wear.
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Old 08-19-2016, 01:58 PM   #3
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Was your leak at the rear seal or the stainless sleeve o-ring?

ALSO I replaced all 4 pads even though 3 of them looked brand new.
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Old 08-19-2016, 06:09 PM   #4
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My passenger side was the inner and the driver's side was the stainless cap on the outer. On the inner, I had a very slight burr I could feel with my finger tip and smoothed it out prior to re-installation. I had three good pads and one very worn, I replaced all with the UPF pads since all the pads had grease on them. Bleeding is easy if you have someone to help. There is a manual that shows how to bleed on the UPF web site.

I have some photos posted in this thread---->Link
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Old 02-15-2018, 01:28 PM   #5
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You guys are lucky

Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiter21 View Post
On our last trip out west I noticed on the TPMS that the left dolly wheel was running warmer than the right and there was a little oil on the wheel. I also noticed the left side "Vault" hub piston didn't appear to be poking out of the hub, the right side looked OK.

When we got home I pulled the wheels to inspect the brakes. WOAH. The outer pad on the left side was worn almost completely out. the inner pad was worn a little, but was heat stressed and cracked. The pads on the right side looked almost new.


It appeared that the oil was leaking out of the axle from the rear seal, and the oil was causing the brake to bind.

I contacted UFP (The folks that make the axle for Acme) and their tech walked me through how to replace the brakes and rebuild the seals on the axle.

He also gave me a couple pointers on how to make the job easier, i.e. drill a hole in the lower frame so you can reach the lower caliper bolt with a socket wrench.

Also suggestions on how to make sure the leak doesn't happen again.

They sent me new seals and grease for the both hubs at no charge under their 5 year warranty.

I wrote up the entire process, with photos on my sire:

Acme Brakes and Axle 2001 Coachmen Mirada 300QB

..

Very good customer support from UFP.


..
You, and others in this thread are lucky. I'm in process of trying to get an entirely new set of all brake components for my 4 3/4 year old dolly. UFP was of no help. They do not sell to users. The flipped me to Waymires Distributors. Acme had told me UFP could help and would sell me an entire axle set - WRONG. When I got back to Acme and told them that UFFP does not sell to the public, they offered to sell a set to me for $389.99 plus $57.51 shipping. They said $389.99 is their cost.

I have found no where to purchase the 8" rotor / hub / caliper. I have found the same conponents but in the 10" size for $329 with free shipping.

You are probably wondering why I'm replacing everything. Like you did, I looked at the pads and rotors during my last trip. The left rotor was badly grooved and the pad was very thin. I decided I would have my mechanic service them when I got home. Been home for over months and just now getting to them. The left rotor is basically gone. The air vents are gone. The front pad is gone.
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Old 02-16-2018, 05:56 AM   #6
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After I did mine, I have no leaks. I had a small burr on one side of mine that leaked on the inner seal. The other side leaked at the hub. I rebuilt both of my calipers and all the parts not supplied by UFP under warranty (sent to my house after I filled out a warranty form) I bought over the internet at a boating web site. Same brakes, etc. you just need to know the UFP assembly designation.

I was very careful in my rebuilt, and knock on wood, there is no sign of leakage. I have also added inspections to my spring and pre-trip check list to ensure the brakes are in good working order. Don't forget, if you use engine braking on hills the dolly brakes are engaged. They are small pads and will wear quickly with a lot of hill driving so ensuring the master cylinder remains full and the pads don't wear down to metal are paramount to keeping the system operating. I also use a performance DOT 4 fluid with high wet and dry boiling points. These brakes can get very hot. One other thing I found is the newer 12" tire setup allows better brake cooling as the rotor remains outside the wheel width and in the direct path of passing air.
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Old 02-16-2018, 07:31 AM   #7
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What is wrong with the existing rotor, hub and caliper??
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1999 Fleetwood Southwind 35S (Ford F53 6.8L V10) - Toad 2003 Saturn Vue.
(www.1999Southwind.com)

It won't do MACH 2, but I can get a sandwich and take a pee.
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Old 02-16-2018, 01:56 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiter21 View Post
What is wrong with the existing rotor, hub and caliper??


Nothing that I am aware of.
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Old 02-16-2018, 02:10 PM   #9
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I was curious why LakeKerrGuy needed these items? When I did mine, the only thing I replaced was the pads, and of course the axle seals.
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1999 Fleetwood Southwind 35S (Ford F53 6.8L V10) - Toad 2003 Saturn Vue.
(www.1999Southwind.com)

It won't do MACH 2, but I can get a sandwich and take a pee.
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Old 02-17-2018, 06:12 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiter21 View Post
I was curious why LakeKerrGuy needed these items? When I did mine, the only thing I replaced was the pads, and of course the axle seals.
Sounds like the pads wore down to metal and wiped out the rotor.
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Old 02-17-2018, 01:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiter21 View Post
What is wrong with the existing rotor, hub and caliper??
If I could figure out how to post photos on here, I would show you. I believe the caliper locked up and destroyed the left rotor. There is literally nothing left. The cooling vents are even gone.

Right rotor is a little groved, but it could be used. Pads on right have normal wear for the 30,000 miles the dolly has been on the road.

I made the change to the 12" wheel last summer. Three new wheels and tires were shipping to me from Acme while we were on the road . The left rotor was destroyed sometime after that. I looked at the brakes when I was replacing the wheels. They were wore but still usable. I knew I would be getting them serviced before the next trip. So we got home in early September and the dolly was out of mind until 2 weeks ago when I started to get everything ready for this years trip.

BTW, not knowing if this old thread would be found, I also posted a new thread about my issue. In it, I talk about my problems finding parts and Acme's assistance and initial lack of.
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