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Old 09-30-2013, 08:13 PM   #1
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Advice for an enclosed car hauler

After lots of consideration I'm pretty sure that we're going to purchase an enclosed trailer for towing.

The reasons are:

1. Ability to two either of our cars (neither are approved for flat towing)

2. Ability to bring the golf cart &/or motorcycle

3. Provides 'some' extra storage

4. We're rated at towing 10,000 so with the car at 3600 and the golf cart around 600 and the motorcycle at 800 I figure a trailer 5000 and under works.

The car is 16' and the golf cart is 7' so I'm debating between a 24 & 28 foot trailer. One problem is we are a 45' coach so either trailer will put us at/over the 70' length - will that be much of a problem?

The other question I have is how long of a tow arm should I be looking at, do I have to get the extended arm?

Any suggestions about the side door being 32 vs. larger sizes?

Any hints about what you consider a must or "wish you had done" prior to purchasing your trailer?

I'm wondering because I'm trying to decide if I should just purchase a trailer or order one with the spec's I want - the problem is since I haven't used a trailer what do I need/want?
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:45 PM   #2
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Luckyone,
I will be following this thread as I have played with the idea of a enclosed trailer too. Others with more experience with chime in. You might consider a trailer with a v nose front. I like Featherlite brand because all aluminum making it lighter weight and their trailers have v nose and hitch tongue length gives additional room for turning. Can't remember if that is an option or not. Let us know what you get. Can't answer the overall length question. Most DP with triple axle stacker trailers must be over 70' too.
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:19 PM   #3
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I have a 42' Coach, 24' v nose trailer with extended tongue. Extended tongue is mandatory for tight turns so you don't hit front of the trailer with back of coach. I have trailered for 3 years, no legal issues with length so far. It is tight in some parking lots however.

I prefer torsion axles vs leaf spring, but I would research as there is pro's and con's to both. I would strongly encourage ordering (I'm on my second trailer as my first trailer wouldn't accomodate my full size SUV for door height opening), I have an escape door but I rarely use it. My smaller vehicles hit fender well (I have seen some fender wells that are removable) and my full SUV door hits on the top of the escape door frame.

You will want the side entry door, nice to get in and out to check on things. I have a rear ramp door I had reinforced to accommodate 6,000 lb SUV going in the back, and side ramp door near the front to load Harley or golf cart. In floor spare tire compartment, but it is covered up sometimes depending on how I load.

Three full length of trailer 'E' Track, 6 'D' Rings in floor, and Condor Motorcycle wheel chock are all important to me.

Lighting is important, especially inside depending on how else you may use trailer.

I went extra 1' taller than standard, but I wish I would have went even taller for extra storage (you don't know it is back there anyway), but I can walk around with no issues and my vehicles clear with no issues. I have taken 4 motorcycles to Sturgis, mutliple various other combinations of vehicles/motorcycles. Some ways I wish I would have done 26', but turning would have been a bigger issue.

Keep in mind one of the big advantages of trailering is backing up, I couldn't do it with tow dolly or 4 down.

Make sure you get appropriate rated axles for your 10,000 GVW, and I highly recommend a Sherline Trailer tongue scale especially if you will be doing different combinations.

I have mine getting insulated as we speak, big regret. I had mine pre wired for 30 amp power with breaker box, pre wired for roof air/heat and braced (my next addition more than likely).

I also upgraded exterior to .30, upgraded to heavier torsion axles with higher rated brakes, jack with sand foot, diamond plate on bottom 24" all the way around to protect finish, anodized polish corners all the way around, and mag wheels with radial tires.

I also recommend equalizer bars and sway control. Good Luck!
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:59 PM   #4
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My suggestion: Featherlite V-nose stacker. Put a side ramp on it and put the M/C in sideways, car behind it, golf cart up front. Shorten it as much as possible - the V will hold a tool box, and the space in front of the golf cart can be decked to use as an attic.

Will be $$$$, and I doubt it will be under 5,000 lb. In addition to E-track in the floor, a strip about 3.5 to 4' high around the walls makes it easy to tie down everything.

Definitely triple axle, If you go w/doubles I'd want 19.5 wheels so you can get above E-rated tires. That's not a rig you want a flat on.
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:10 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeryan59 View Post
I have a 42' Coach, 24' v nose trailer with extended tongue. Extended tongue is mandatory for tight turns so you don't hit front of the trailer with back of coach. I have trailered for 3 years, no legal issues with length so far. It is tight in some parking lots however.
Check.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeryan59 View Post
I prefer torsion axles vs leaf spring, but I would research as there is pro's and con's to both.
I'm still looking at this one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeryan59 View Post
You will want the side entry door, nice to get in and out to check on things. I have a rear ramp door I had reinforced to accommodate 6,000 lb SUV going in the back, and side ramp door near the front to load Harley or golf cart. In floor spare tire compartment, but it is covered up sometimes depending on how I load.
Did you get the extra wide side door or the 32"?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeryan59 View Post
Lighting is important, especially inside depending on how else you may use trailer.
This is something I overlooked - thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeryan59 View Post
Make sure you get appropriate rated axles for your 10,000 GVW, and I highly recommend a Sherline Trailer tongue scale especially if you will be doing different combinations.

I have mine getting insulated as we speak, big regret. I had mine pre wired for 30 amp power with breaker box, pre wired for roof air/heat and braced (my next addition more than likely).
Another great idea that I overlooked - thanks!
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:13 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VanDiemen23 View Post
My suggestion: Featherlite V-nose stacker. Put a side ramp on it and put the M/C in sideways, car behind it, golf cart up front. Shorten it as much as possible - the V will hold a tool box, and the space in front of the golf cart can be decked to use as an attic.

Will be $$$$, and I doubt it will be under 5,000 lb. In addition to E-track in the floor, a strip about 3.5 to 4' high around the walls makes it easy to tie down everything.

Definitely triple axle, If you go w/doubles I'd want 19.5 wheels so you can get above E-rated tires. That's not a rig you want a flat on.
Check on the triple axle if I go 28. I thought that a double would be ok if I only went 24.

The wall strip is a good idea that I hadn't put on the list - until now, thanks
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:40 AM   #7
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Triple axle most likely would put you over 10,000 lbs as least that was my concern. Correct?

Jery. what brand trailer do you have? Great post. Thanks.
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:01 AM   #8
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36" sidedoor with holdback and ATP step, 60" side door ramp, you may need wider with golf cart? Twin 5,200 lb Dexter Torsion Axles with brakes on both axles and E-Z Lube hub axles. I also added stabilizer jacks on rear so I can load unload without being hooked up, I added a pair of aluminum sidewall vents (one on each side, one up front one in the rear), 54" Escape Door (Driver's Side).

Freedom Trailer made both of my trailers, not the same league as a Featherlite, but not entry level in my opinion from my research.

Interior height on my trailer is 7'6", with the height of my coach I wish I would have went 8' interior height.

I did an electrical package with 12 volt lights, wall switches, fluorescent lights and 110 volt outlets. I have two non powered vents and it is wired and braced for a/c.

I am having the inside of trailer insulated and painted this week, wish I had it done at factory but I am sure this guy will do a very good job.

I also did 10 'D' rings in the floor, no show beavertail is very important. There are some really informative videos on You Tube, I think it was "how to buy a auto hauler"?
Good luck, hardest part was trying to get everything I wanted for the amount of money I wanted to spend, as usual that is the struggle!
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:09 AM   #9
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Lots of good info above.

When I had our trailer made (avatar) I had a four foot side door made. Much easier to load/unload motorcycles when vehicle inside.

When trailer was made, we had the company add metal in the floor for the track width of the two vehicles I was putting in at the time.

I like leaf springs. Easy to service and if a failure, easy to repair.
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Old 10-01-2013, 02:55 PM   #10
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One thing I did remember, make sure you get ALL LED lights, some of the mfg save a few dollars by not putting all LED lights on exterior.
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Old 10-01-2013, 04:54 PM   #11
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We've been pulling our 10,000 lb 26 ft enclosed trailer for 4 years now and totally love it.

The "box" is 26 ft plus another 5 ft for the tongue. Your coach is max 102 inches wide which means 51 inches on either side of center. If your tongue length is superior to 51 inches, it is next to impossible for your coach to hit the box regardless of the tightness of your turns....you'll need to be mindful of the tongue however. With a 60 inch tongue length, you're in business.

I have added an ATP box on top of part of the tongue closest to the front of the box to house wood blocks, junk, battery charger and a deep cycle battery that operates the tongue jack, break-away brake system, trailer back up / unloading lights, and two interior lights. I also moved the electric tongue jack to immediately next to the ATP box, to increase the distance from the back of the motorhome to prevent the possibility of the top of the jack hitting the coach when transitioning to steep inclines.

I have a 36 inch road side door, another 48 inch road side escape door located above the wheel wells, a 48 inch curb side ramp up front and of course the back ramp. All ramps are ATP covered and spring loaded. 8 D rings provide anchorage for my golf cart and whatever car we bring.

My SUV and my car are high enough that I can open the doors without hitting the wheel wells, buy my wife's A4 is lower so I had to add 2 thicknesses of 2 by 10 to raise her car so it wouldn't hit the wheel wells. If I could start over, i would order the trailer with ATP ramps to do the same thing.

Two vertical support jacks in back allow me to load or unload anywhere anytime and the lights provide vision at night.

There are base and top cabinets up front to hold the 50 amp power cable and power distribution panel, tools, compressor, spare parts and too much junk.... Two 48 inch double neons provide lighting when connected to 120 volt power sources, and also feeds two electrical outlets located on the outside of the trailer plus another on the wall behind the front cabinet counter top.

The first year I had the trailer, I installed a back-up camera that I hooked up to the coach monitor. This in my mind is a must and is extremely useful when backing up in any situation.

Tires rapidly became an issue as typically, trailer tires are.....crap. I replaced with LT light truck steel belted tires and have never had a problem since.

I spent a year looking around for the right trailer, and I'm quite happy with the one I have. Hope this helps you make the decisions that will get you the trailer you're looking for.

Cheers.
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:56 PM   #12
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Those of you with enclosed.trailers, post a couple pictures if you would. Love to see them.
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:31 PM   #13
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Thumbs up

The extended hitch is a must, I still hit my ladder if I back up to sharp, but can turn as sharp as I want going forward, trailer mounted back up camera also a must, springs or torsion , pro's and con's, springs are repair able but ussally are not a problem, torsion, if need be can run with the wheel removed, know someone who lost a wheel assembly and didn't know it till fuel stop, bias ply tires wear badly, pop for the radials, side ramp door sounds like a nice option, I back my car in to put less weight on the hitch, now, check other posts on vehicale lenght, lots and lots of input here you'll be suprised how many states are under 60'!, I'm 65' and havent had any problem's, at least legally, getting stuck on a dead end sucks! happy hunting
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:54 PM   #14
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Here is my rig that I had custom built for hauling behind my Fleetwood Discovery 40X!
I did the screwless exterior (No screws or rivets)
10,000 lb axles with brakes on both axles
I did lighting inside and spotlights that swing out
Extended tongue and a small 12" extention on the coach hitch.
Painted it to match the coach exactly for runoff onto the trailer.
Full cabinets and hangers for straps and tie downs
Various Harley Decorations
Full polished stainless steel bottoms and all casings.
3 Condor M/C chocks and 9 heavy duty D-Rings
You can do so much to a 24ft trailer to work for your application and it hauls perfectly!
Just my 2 cents!!
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