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Old 07-10-2013, 03:39 PM   #15
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Whether I am doing worse damage to my vehicle than towing 4 down is impossible in my opinion. I have torsion axles, purposely left a closed box knife on the floor for 400 miles and it didn't move more than 2". I do cross the tie downs to stop the side to side movement, but that may be overkill? I have been towing using various methods since 2001, so far absolutely no damage to any vehicle I have kept in my enclosed trailer, I can't say that about the other methods. This has been the best method for me, if there is a different method that works for others I get it, there are compromises on everything.

I also have researched various methods of securing my Harley Road Glide and various vehicles in my trailer, but this last method wasn't only the easiest, it has provided the best results of keeping the vehicle secure. I have not had one occasion where my straps have loosened, again, I can't say that about the other methods.

I do have 3 pieces of 'E' track running full length of trailer in addition to 'd' rings in the floor at various locations to enable the flexibility of securing vehicles and more importantly to keeps the straps located in the most desirable location and angle.

Secondly, keeping the trailer has never been an issue so far in two years at my space in the park. I know there may be an occasion where I may have to leave the trailer in the storage area of a park versus at my location, but so far this hasn't been the case.

I had same concerns initially, but I prefer the enclosed trailer method for many reasons. However, yesterday I would have loved to have a vehicle to tow 4 wheels down (unfortunately, out of my 5 vehicles I currently own not one is able to be towed 4 wheels down), I had to take my unit in for a Spartan Recall to Cummins Coach Care and it would have been nice to tow a vehicle to service center so I didn't have to have a ride home and then back to Cummins to pick up the unit. I am contemplating getting a 4 wheels down tow vehicle, but haven't determined which compromise on vehicle is best for me yet.
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Old 07-11-2013, 05:34 PM   #16
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I have been using a trailer for the last 9 years and about 90,000 miles. 99% of the time I always had a long pull through site but a few were tight... Last year I did my first 4-down towing and while there is less weight to tow I really like the trailer better. My biggest issue with a trailer is the tires. No more that two years on a set and I have had a few different brands. I say "set" because once one of the set comes apart I replace them all.
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:23 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by powerboatr View Post
Actually you are incorrect
Thanx for clearing that up for me. Evidently I know nothing about how to tie a car down to a trailer.
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:31 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by jeryan59 View Post
Whether I am doing worse damage to my vehicle than towing 4 down is impossible in my opinion.
I did not mean overall damage, I was just referring to potential suspension damage. Towing in a trailer is far better than 4 down for overall damage. In other words the car is bouncing around more inside the trailer than it would be if the wheels were on the road.

Try riding in the car inside the trailer for a while on a rough road. You will want to get out .
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:14 PM   #19
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DegoRed, you commented on one of your posts that you upgraded your hitch. We have a F53 with a 5000# hitch and I am thinking of starting using a trailer to haul our 2013 two door Rubicon and our Can Am four wheeler. Total weight will be about 5800 pounds if I purchase an aluminum trailer or 6300 pounds if I use a steel trailer. How did you upgrade your MH hitch?
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Old 08-18-2013, 08:10 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
nomad10th,
While we don't own one, we have towed our Jeeps on an aluminum trailer and it was nice because of the main fact of it being considerably lighter than a steel one of the same length and construction layout. We have a trailer outlet near our home and, without a doubt, even the simple aluminum ones look elegant.

There is no doubt about it, if I was in the market for a car trailer, I'd look seriously at an aluminum one. And, also there's no doubt about it, you'd pay considerably more for that "lightness". I'm not a fan of dollies. I'd rather have a trailer if, I had to haul a car or truck that was not flat towable. At least you can back a trailer if needed.
Scott

Below is just one of the many that are featured as we drive by daily. Yep, a bit pricey but, look at the specs. Fairly impressive.

8218 18-Foot Tilt - $7,001.00

Hitch Style: Bumper Pull D-Ring Floor Tie Downs
4-Wheel Brakes
Aluminum Wheels
LED Lights
Removable Fenders
Stake Pockets
2014 Aluma 18-foot 82"x216" all-aluminum 8218 Open Tilt Trailer. Tandem rubber torsion axles, 7000# GVWR, empty weight 1350#, 2-5/16" coupler, 14" aluminum wheels, 4-wheel electric brakes, LED lighting package, four 5000# tie downs, 8 stake pockets, removable aluminum fenders, safety-chains, swivel tongue jack. VIN #1YGHD1822EB104778
I visited my local Aluma dealer and I really like the 8218 Tilt.

Dealer quoted me $8400 out the door including a delivery charge.

Where can I get one for 7K out the door?

Curt
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:33 AM   #21
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Curt, that sounds really high for that trailer. I basically got online, and called/shopped every Aluma dealer I could find. The cost to have a trailer shipped is not that much.

Ended up finding mine about 4 hours away, sucked burning a day driving to and fro, but saved me about $1000. Paid $6K for my 24ft, however it does not have a tilt bed, but would guess that should/would add $500 to $700 to price.

Good luck!
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:26 AM   #22
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We used to go to the dunes near Yuma.its about 250 miles from Tucson. I bought a new ATV and after only 2 years the rear mono shock wore out. When I took it to Yamaha shop the guy said let me guess. You trailer it to the dunes and only tie down the front. I said how do you know. He said that's the only ones he replaces. I was bitching about the quality and he said if I was too lazy to tie down the whole suspension I should tie down the back because the front shocks were cheaper to replace.
$600 for the mono shock taught me to tie down the whole thing.
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Old 08-19-2013, 12:07 PM   #23
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From trailering vehicles to various racing events, I was fortunate to be shown the correct way from day one by veteran racers. The best way is to ratchet strap down each corner, but to cross strap them, this keeps vehicle from moving. For example, right font is ratchet down to left side, left front to right side, same for back. We check tension on straps at every fuel stop.

Never ever had problems with vehicles this way, and have traveled to a ton of events in my life time, Baja, Glamis, Moab, Little Sahara, Ketempcy, Hidden Falls, etc., not to mention the 5k-7k miles a year just driving around the country.
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Old 08-19-2013, 12:58 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curtisgeiger View Post
I visited my local Aluma dealer and I really like the 8218 Tilt.

Dealer quoted me $8400 out the door including a delivery charge.

Where can I get one for 7K out the door?

Curt
Curt,
I don't think I ever said that was an "out the door" price of $7K. That was the price listed on the web site, that particular trailer at that time. What someone pays for something in their region or area may be considerably different than what you or I or anyone else pays in ours, theirs or your region area. It all depends on how hungry the salesman or owner of the company is. There may or may not be similar base prices but, again, how hungry are they.

We've flat towed our Jeeps for 25 years and never, NEVER caused any more damage to them by being flat towed than they'd receive by driving them. Besides, we used them to the max of their capability anyway. I mean, if there was damage to them by towing them, then there would be damage to every single vehicle that's flat towed, all over this planet. That includes CRVs, trucks, SUVs, cars, pickups- two and four wheel drive and many, many more.

If you want to trailer your vehicle, than fine, trailer it. It's yours so, you can transport it any way you like. But damage while towing, I'd have to see physical damage that was a direct result of towing before I'd believe any existed. Good luck.
Scott
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:04 PM   #25
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Buy a regular steel trailer, not that much extra weight, put your car on it and quit worrying. If it is over it will only be by a few pounds.
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:36 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
nomad10th,
While we don't own one, we have towed our Jeeps on an aluminum trailer and it was nice because of the main fact of it being considerably lighter than a steel one of the same length and construction layout. We have a trailer outlet near our home and, without a doubt, even the simple aluminum ones look elegant.

There is no doubt about it, if I was in the market for a car trailer, I'd look seriously at an aluminum one. And, also there's no doubt about it, you'd pay considerably more for that "lightness". I'm not a fan of dollies. I'd rather have a trailer if, I had to haul a car or truck that was not flat towable. At least you can back a trailer if needed.
Scott

Below is just one of the many that are featured as we drive by daily. Yep, a bit pricey but, look at the specs. Fairly impressive.

8218 18-Foot Tilt - $7,001.00

Hitch Style: Bumper Pull D-Ring Floor Tie Downs
4-Wheel Brakes
Aluminum Wheels
LED Lights
Removable Fenders
Stake Pockets
2014 Aluma 18-foot 82"x216" all-aluminum 8218 Open Tilt Trailer. Tandem rubber torsion axles, 7000# GVWR, empty weight 1350#, 2-5/16" coupler, 14" aluminum wheels, 4-wheel electric brakes, LED lighting package, four 5000# tie downs, 8 stake pockets, removable aluminum fenders, safety-chains, swivel tongue jack. VIN #1YGHD1822EB104778
I recently bought one of these to tow my wife's C300 and our Honda MC.
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:38 PM   #27
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Buy a regular steel trailer, not that much extra weight, put your car on it and quit worrying. If it is over it will only be by a few pounds.
Buying an aluminum trailer makes sense to me living in the rust belt. The 700/800 pounds of weight savings is a plus.
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:02 PM   #28
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Buying an aluminum trailer makes sense to me living in the rust belt. The 700/800 pounds of weight savings is a plus.
Plus I can move the Aluma by hand when I need to.

Not possible with a steel trailer
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