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Old 08-05-2012, 07:14 PM   #1
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Another dumd newbie

First purchase is a Monaco Dynasty. Multiple suggestions from dealer on auxiliary braking for tow car. Are they always necessary and which work the best?

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Old 08-05-2012, 07:19 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by davleb View Post
First purchase is a Monaco Dynasty. Multiple suggestions from dealer on auxiliary braking for tow car. Are they always necessary and which work the best?
Are they always necessary? Yes absolutely. There will be people who will tell you that they don't use auxiliary brakes since their MH has ample braking capacity. What they omit to mention is the case where the towbar fails and the toad freewheels down the highway. The auxiliary brake unit will kick in and stop the runaway.

Which one? many good choices. All I can say from first hand experience is that my Brakebuddy has been 100% reliable in 20,000 miles of towing.

Bruce Dickson 2013 Thor Challenger 37GT, 5 Star Tune, Safe-T-Plus Steering Control with Air Trim, Roadmaster front and rear Sway Bars, SuperSteer rear Track Bar, Crossfires, 2012 Honda CRV on Blue Ox Aventa LX tow bar. Full timers since Jan 2012.
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Old 08-05-2012, 07:50 PM   #3
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I use the Roadmaster Invisibrake. Just set it up once and forget it. Stays in vehicle permanently
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:08 PM   #4
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Love my Air Force Braking system by SMI. IMO, best in the industry. Here is the link:

2010 Fleetwood Discovery 40G
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:51 PM   #5
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bdickson said it all and I cannot do better. I have the older style Road master where you have to install it each time you use it. I would get one of the newer style ones where you do not have to put stuff in your car each time. But I would have to say that my Roadmaster is very well made and has worked flawlessly.
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Old 08-05-2012, 10:11 PM   #6
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I like my Ready Brute with the Ready Brake, it's simple, hooks up quickly, relatively inexpensive and I don't have any brake controller box to move in and out of the toad. Good luck.
Mike, Lora and Bebe
05 Safari Simba 37 PCT, WorkHorse W22, Koni FSD, CrossFire, Rear Trak-Bar, SG2
Ready Brute w/ Ready Brake, Safe-T-Plus, 05 GMC Envoy
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Old 08-07-2012, 10:04 AM   #7
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Are they always necessary: YES. not matter what the stat law, No matter what the weight of the towed, If you rear end someone and you do NOT have aux braking the term "Reckless Endangerment" may be applied and that makes the fine in the states that require them look like peanuts.

Which work best:
Now that is dang near a "Which Religion Is Best" question.. I will discuss several systems.

First: Many dealers push what I call "Box" systems, Brake Buddy, Even brake, et-al, these are boxes you place in the driver's seat that push on the brake pedal when you stop. Avoid these.. The big advertising lie is "NO INSTALLATION REQUIRED" what they mean is no DEALER installation required, YOU have to install it EVERY TIME you tow. and I have had replies that admitted to saying "oh the heck with it" for a short tow, Thankfully they did not crash on that short tow. I would avoid these systems.> They have several other faults as well but I just covered the big two.

Then you have air/hydraulic systems like the M&G and Air Force one.. If you have a Diesel with air brakes I these are worth serious consideration.. They work well and are completly transparant to a driver of the towed vechicle (That is there is nothign to remove or stow, Just the air hose and the safety cable).

Then we have systems like the US-Gear Unified Brake Deceleratort, this is an electric/hydrauilc NOT compatable with most trailer brake controllers (but it has it's own) this unit is both purportional and progressive, NOTE these are desiarable trates. Purportional means you can adjust the "Gain" so that the towed stops itself, and the RV stops itself (Ideal situtation) as opposed to one trying to stop the other, Progressive means the harder you stop, the harder IT stops. This unit gives the operator the ability to disable the towed brakes or,, to engage them WITHOUT engaging the motor home brakes (Useful on occasion, For example hooking up while pointed down hill. Been there, Used that feature). On paper this is the best system there is, In reality, it can be (I had a few issues with mine).

Invisible Brake by Roadmaster: Nearly as good as the above, this is an air/hydraulic system with electronic control, the enitre unit fits in the towed and is invisible to the driver of same. All that connects to the motor home is a single wire (An indicator) to sense when it activates, and the standard tow light harness. Like all towed-based systems (Including the US gear) it sucks power from the towed battery, but, again like the US-Gear, it has a way to replace that power from the motor home (NOTE that is the next problem with the box systems, they too suck power from the towed, no means to replace however).

I have heard of a problem with one of these where the thing activated when it should not have.. Bad installation it turns out (had that problem with the US gear too only a different bad install, cost me a brake job).

Ready Brake (Best if you use the Ready Brute tow bar) this is the simplest of all brakign systems and has an advantage most of the others do not (Well M&G simply bypasses this problem and US-Gear addresses it). The vacuum booster on the towed.

This is a surge brake system.. When you slow the motor home the towed tries to push it along faster. this causes a system of levers to pull the pedal toward the floor and apply the brakes, Always JUST ENOUGH if the cable pulls too hard the towed drops back and the cable relaxes. thus it compensates for the Vacuum in the booster tank (or lack thereof) it auto adjusts to differeing loads in the towed and so on, I have read of only two issues with this unit.

One person had an issue with the break--away sytem engaging when it should not,

Another had his cable adjusted too tight so it would pull when it should not have.

Both were easily fixed.

Home is where I park it!
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