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Old 04-20-2018, 06:01 PM   #99
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Thanks I will go with a second switch. Keeps it very simple. Thanks everyone for your help. Looking forward to using the new Hercules and Ready Brake setup
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Old 04-20-2018, 07:03 PM   #100
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Originally Posted by RKins View Post
Sure I'll help. Maybe we can all learn something here.
Here is a drawing of a couple things. A DC circuit needs a complete circuit. That's the top drawing and includes the proper polarity for a load (for us it's an LED and resistor (they are wired in on his cable)). The lower 2 drawings show the batteries in each vehicle and the negative is tied to the frame.


So my question is how do you complete the circuit? If you tie the + on the coach side and the - on the towed side, where is the path for a complete circuit? They have different + and - and no continuity between them (as shown in my drawings).
The frames of the two vehicles are the same point electrically. As far as electricity is concerned there is only one vehicle.

It might be easier if you could just teach me how to draw on here.
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Old 04-20-2018, 07:23 PM   #101
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See if this displays. Ok, so it's not the best technical drawing ever but hopefully you get the idea.
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Old 04-20-2018, 07:31 PM   #102
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Thanks I will go with a second switch. Keeps it very simple. Thanks everyone for your help. Looking forward to using the new Hercules and Ready Brake setup
A second switch will work on any toad. In some cases you may be able to use the existing toad brake light switch but that would take some study of your specific toads wiring harness.
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Old 04-21-2018, 05:20 AM   #103
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Good morning all.
First of all, both vehicles are not electrically the same. If they are sitting side by side with nothing connected between them and you connect an ohm meter between the two chassis, you'll see infinite resistance. They have nothing in common - that's an easy term to use both electrically and in normal conversation, like "I have nothing in common with you". If they don't have anything in common they are isolated from each other and there is no current flow. Tires isolate the vehicles from the earth making them common.
That being said. If I connect a wire from the coach's battery + to a LED + side and then connect the LED - side to the towed frame it will not light. The battery in the coach needs a return from the towed for the current to flow. That return is what makes them have something in common. Usually the "common" is a - (frame) connected between the vehicles. Vato's last drawing has an interesting comment in the middle of the drawing "Both wires grounded to RV frame" - that's the "common" point between the vehicles. That connection (even though you aren't "grounding" anything) completes the circuit and allows current to flow back to the battery.
Some people have lucked out that their lights have worked "with running only one wire" - what they don't realize is that there is a common between the vehicles somewhere - could be the light harness that is running from the coach to the towed has the ends tied to the frame. Could even be the tow bar between the two vehicles is bridging the frames (even though this is an "iffy" connection). There has to be a common between them otherwise you need to get the + and - from the same vehicle, as in the diagram from the NSA install document that I posted earlier. I didn't draw that diagram, I did a screen grab and uploaded it. They didn't want to have to rely on a "common" between the vehicles, so they ran their own.
Chargerman, using Vato's drawing will get your light to work using the cabling they gave you.
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Old 04-21-2018, 07:27 AM   #104
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Good morning all.
First of all, both vehicles are not electrically the same. If they are sitting side by side with nothing connected between them and you connect an ohm meter between the two chassis, you'll see infinite resistance. They have nothing in common - that's an easy term to use both electrically and in normal conversation, like "I have nothing in common with you". If they don't have anything in common they are isolated from each other and there is no current flow.
Plug in your umbilical and do the same test.

I get the sense that you want this discussion to degrade into an argument. If that's the case then you need to look elsewhere as I am done discussing it with you. Wire things as you wish and have a nice day.

If others would like to continue this discussion I would be happy to talk to them but I will not respond to RKins anymore.
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Old 04-21-2018, 07:43 AM   #105
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When you attach your tow bar from the RV to the baseplate you now have a common ground. I agree that an potential argument is not warranted. Thanks to all who attempted to help me and all of the other positive support.
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Old 04-21-2018, 08:03 AM   #106
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When you attach your tow bar from the RV to the baseplate you now have a common ground. I agree that an potential argument is not warranted. Thanks to all who attempted to help me and all of the other positive support.
Additionally, assuming your umbilical is properly wired, there is a bonding ground wire in it and in most cases (but not all) a positive bonding wire also.
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Old 04-21-2018, 11:55 AM   #107
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I am not looking for an argument. I was trying to help people (no one in particular) that might not understand the wiring and the need for complete circuits. Someone learned something from it I hope.

On a different subject and more back to the original topic - the RB system, I gave up trying to do anything fancy with my brake wire - there just isn't any room in the foot well to get a swage tool in there and keep the cable short. Also the thimble end out front is tucked inside the bumper a bit too, so no room to swage a new thimble on. I designed something else that was removable but again, no room to work on it. The Jeep has adjustable pedals to add another level of complexity. I ended up just connecting the cable like the Mfr designed it. I'll keep an eye on the wear and tear on the cable.
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Old 04-22-2018, 01:07 PM   #108
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So I just started installing my ready brake today. Installing it on a Silverado. I have the cable run to the center of the truck just above the license plate. It’s sticking out quite a bit. Wondering what others have done? I use this truck for more than just a toad and don’t see the plastic connector lasting very long.
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Old 04-22-2018, 01:14 PM   #109
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It has a separate cable that only moves in one direction. It applies the brake by pulling on the brake pedal. It has a one way block that the emergency cable runs through. Once applied it has to be reset before the cable can be loosened.
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Old 04-22-2018, 01:33 PM   #110
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So I just started installing my ready brake today. Installing it on a Silverado. I have the cable run to the center of the truck just above the license plate. It’s sticking out quite a bit. Wondering what others have done? I use this truck for more than just a toad and don’t see the plastic connector lasting very long.
My brother made a disconnect inside f jeep with a pin and roller from a screen door. This way cable does not constantly move when driving and brakes ng
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Old 04-22-2018, 01:58 PM   #111
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Any experiences good or bad with Ready Brake

Was just looking where I placed it and I might move it lower. If I place it just above the license plate it’ll be more recessed. That’s a job for tomorrow though. It’s time for a cigar and beer!
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Old 04-22-2018, 02:48 PM   #112
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I have a GMC and I put mine in the center pocket area above the license plate. At the bottom of the tranny cooler. Not sure if your grill has the same opening. I will post a pic shortly
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