Any Year Jeep Wrangler? Automatic 4-flat ok?

[Kro1957]

Looking at finding a Jeep Wrangler to tow behind the coach. 4FD. Automatic.

Let me see if I got this right.

Put Shifter in N. Then transfer case in N. Then shift to R and see if it moves. It should not. Then the same for D. If all is ok put in Park and proceed to hook up to coach.

Leave the ignition to Acc allowing steering to move freely. Newer models I hear do not require this. Not sure what year forward.

I am guessing this is the same for both 4cy and 6cy? Any year Wrangler?

Thanks
James

[MCJones]

If you can get a 2012 or newer, it won't be a steering wheel lock problem. It also has the newer v6 which is a very good engine. I'm not sure when the steering wheels began the "non locking" feature, but I know it is true from 2012 and up. good luck mark

[JohnBoyToo]

u got it !
EZ, PZ , isn't it...

then you got a toad that can take you anywhere you want to go

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by Kro1957

Looking at finding a Jeep Wrangler to tow behind the coach. 4FD. Automatic.

Let me see if I got this right.

Put Shifter in N. Then transfer case in N. Then shift to R and see if it moves. It should not. Then the same for D. If all is ok put in Park and proceed to hook up to coach.

Leave the ignition to Acc allowing steering to move freely. Newer models I hear do not require this. Not sure what year forward.

I am guessing this is the same for both 4cy and 6cy? Any year Wrangler?

Thanks
James

James,
You're pretty much correct in the fact that just about any year/model Wrangler is FLAT TOWABLE. And, your procedure for prepping for tow is pretty much right on the money too. We've towed, CJs, YJs, and three different TJs. We've not had the pleasure of owning or towing a JK model Wrangler.

With the TJ models, you turn the key one click from the "Off" position to unlock the steering only. With that one click, you're not energizing any portion of the toad so, no battery charge line is needed or, no fuses need to be pulled either. And, yes, put the T/C in neutral and, the transmission in Park and, you're good to go.

As for the lights, well, this is always a debate. I've used the stock tail lights and bulbs for toad lights in all of our 8 Jeeps so far and, in almost 30 years of towing them, NOT ONE problem in doing it that way. The only thing you have to consider is, if you're using an auxiliary braking system in the Jeep, any action on the brake pedal will energize the Jeeps brake lights. And that's even with the key in the "Off" position. So, just be aware of that.

Towing Jeeps is one of the easiest setups out there in toad-land. If you need any help on setting it up, PM me and I'd be glad to help.
Scott

[Lt Dan]

Originally Posted by Kro1957

Leave the ignition to Acc allowing steering to move freely. Newer models I hear do not require this. Not sure what year forward.

I am guessing this is the same for both 4cy and 6cy? Any year Wrangler?

Thanks
James

The change to a non-locking steering was around 2008. As previously said, the new V6 engine and 5 speed transmission starting in 2012 is a great improvement. Check with a local company that deals in lease returns. I bought an almost three year old Wrangler with only 35,000 miles on it for less than a lot of eight year old models with over 100,000 miles. Generally, lease returns have to be kept in good condition and the mileage low.

I installed the Mopar harness which connects the Jeep's lights to the motorhome using relays. That way there is no chance of back feed into the wiring harness.

[Kro1957]

It has to be inspected and driven yet but I just put a deposit on a 2001 w 71k miles on it. 4.0L

I would like to buy newer but this one seems to be in great shape and it is what I can afford for right now.

I never owned a Jeep b4. I have driven a truck for 39 years. I am going to feel lost without my truck!!!!

[HHIDan]

For tail lights you could buy these diodes as a kit or find them to buy separately, if you put them in you can easily take them out when you trade your jeep.
http://www.amazon.ca/Blue-Ox-BX8848-.../dp/B003VARHBQ

[vsheetz]

I have towed multiple jeeps, both YJ, TJ, and TJ Rubicon models.

Pretty much correct setup procedure. Except no need to do both reverse and drive to ensure it does not move. The goal here is to ensure the transfer case is truly in neutral, so either will do. Myself and most others probably use drive. Plus the already made comments regarding years without locking columns.

Btw, if you do have locking column but don't want to leave the key in the jeep - if equipped with Sentry Key security (evidenced by a grey instead of black key) you can have a dummy key made up without the chip to enable engine start.

[falconman]

On our 2006 TJ the owners manual states when doing the check to see if the transfer case is in neutral by using D or R, DO NOT shift the transmission back into park with the transfer case in neutral and the engine running! Transmission damage may occur.

[Kro1957]

I actually seen this a while back on a youtube vidio and the guy shifted it back in park, made sure the brake was released and then went on his way.

So your telling me this is not correct? Where should the Gear Shift be in?
With the transfer case in N. Do a check with it in gear and then do what?

I am hoping this jeep has a owners manual. Or I may have to download one.
Thanks!!
James

[aauummm]

Originally Posted by Kro1957

It has to be inspected and driven yet but I just put a deposit on a 2001 w 71k miles on it. 4.0L

I would like to buy newer but this one seems to be in great shape and it is what I can afford for right now.

I never owned a Jeep b4. I have driven a truck for 39 years. I am going to feel lost without my truck!!!!

You'll have so much fun driving the Wrangler that you'll forget all about the truck!

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by Kro1957

I actually seen this a while back on a youtube vidio and the guy shifted it back in park, made sure the brake was released and then went on his way.

So your telling me this is not correct? Where should the Gear Shift be in?
With the transfer case in N. Do a check with it in gear and then do what?

I am hoping this jeep has a owners manual. Or I may have to download one.
Thanks!!
James

Hey James,
As you've read and, I've told you, all you're doing when you try either forward or reverse of the transmission is, to TEST to see if you've accomplished putting the transfer case into NEUTRAL or not. Obviously, if you try either DRIVE or, REVERSE and, the vehicle does not attempt to move, then you were successful in putting the transfer case into neutral.

Now, here's what happens when you "check" for neutral(in the T/C) by putting the transmission into either drive or reverse. In either gear, the transmission WILL SPIN it's output shaft that goes into the transfer case. That means, all the gears and shafts inside the transmission are momentarily spinning during the check.

Now, there are NO BRAKES inside that transmission to slow things down and stop them from spinning immediately. They will COAST for even a slight few seconds. And, when that happens, it's kind of like putting your transmission in park when you're still moving.

So, all you need to do is:

1. Put the T/C in NEUTRAL.
2. Check to make sure it's in NEUTRAL by, putting the transmission in DRIVE or, Reverse, (as stated earlier, either will work).
3. Upon finding out that you've successfully put your T/C in NEUTRAL, then a very safe way to proceed to the next step would be to, place the transmission in NEUTRAL and, shut off the engine.
4. THEN, place the transmission in PARK, with the engine shut down.

In doing it that way, there are NO SPINNING (coasting) gears or shafts that will grind when putting the transmission into PARK. That method has worked flawlessly for us for over 30 years of towing Jeeps.
Scott

[vsheetz]

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

Hey James,

As you've read and, I've told you, all you're doing when you try either forward or reverse of the transmission is, to TEST to see if you've accomplished putting the transfer case into NEUTRAL or not. Obviously, if you try either DRIVE or, REVERSE and, the vehicle does not attempt to move, then you were successful in putting the transfer case into neutral.



Now, here's what happens when you "check" for neutral(in the T/C) by putting the transmission into either drive or reverse. In either gear, the transmission WILL SPIN it's output shaft that goes into the transfer case. That means, all the gears and shafts inside the transmission are momentarily spinning during the check.



Now, there are NO BRAKES inside that transmission to slow things down and stop them from spinning immediately. They will COAST for even a slight few seconds. And, when that happens, it's kind of like putting your transmission in park when you're still moving.



So, all you need to do is:



1. Put the T/C in NEUTRAL.

2. Check to make sure it's in NEUTRAL by, putting the transmission in DRIVE or, Reverse, (as stated earlier, either will work).

3. Upon finding out that you've successfully put your T/C in NEUTRAL, then a very safe way to proceed to the next step would be to, place the transmission in NEUTRAL and, shut off the engine.

4. THEN, place the transmission in PARK, with the engine shut down.



In doing it that way, there are NO SPINNING (coasting) gears or shafts that will grind when putting the transmission into PARK. That method has worked flawlessly for us for over 30 years of towing Jeeps.

Scott

Steps 3 and 4 here are what I do. Else you run the chance of hearing a very nasty noise when moving to park.

[Kro1957]

Thank you!!

I have that process printed off and will go over it with my wife and son. You know, just in case something ever happens to me. I want them to know the process. And of course to remind myself, because I will forget it 5 minutes from now.