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Old 02-11-2019, 07:21 AM   #15
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Over the years I have had issues with tailgate hinges and weight on the gate. I think that if the bed was longer than cart I would remove the gate, and pin the ramps to floor of bed.
And no way I would run with that much weight on the tailgate. Get a couple of 2X8s (2X12 better), cut to length of floor plus tailgate. Bolt the boards down near the front, a shim at the back of bed to hold the boards above gate, but not by much. Pin ramps to the board...
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Old 02-11-2019, 08:01 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoobyDoo View Post
Over the years I have had issues with tailgate hinges and weight on the gate. I think that if the bed was longer than cart I would remove the gate, and pin the ramps to floor of bed.

And no way I would run with that much weight on the tailgate. Get a couple of 2X8s (2X12 better), cut to length of floor plus tailgate. Bolt the boards down near the front, a shim at the back of bed to hold the boards above gate, but not by much. Pin ramps to the board...


I bought a pair of these for the tailgate.

https://www.dgmtailgatesupport.com/p...lgate-support/

How did you bolt the 2x8ís to the front of the bed?
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Old 02-11-2019, 09:15 AM   #17
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I bought a pair of these for the tailgate.
Looks like that would protect the cable, but not the hinge.


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How did you bolt the 2x8ís to the front of the bed?
I was not hauling a cart, but a long, heavy workbench. I used a piece of angle iron, ran bolts down thru the floor where I could get to nuts below.
If I was to plan to haul a cart often I would decide where the front wheels should be to protect nose and front of bed. Use a 2X4 across the top of planks as chock, and bolt it at ends. A thin spacer would let you slide the planks out after you unload. (I'm assuming you want to be able to close tailgate when not hauling the cart?) A shim at the back of bed will act as a fulcrum. While the front wheels are over the tailgate, the front of boards will want to come up. As soon as front wheels cross the fulcrum, no more force on the bolts. Even after the rear wheels get on the board, the fat kid is on the seesaw.
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Old 02-11-2019, 09:28 AM   #18
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Looks like that would protect the cable, but not the hinge.









I was not hauling a cart, but a long, heavy workbench. I used a piece of angle iron, ran bolts down thru the floor where I could get to nuts below.

If I was to plan to haul a cart often I would decide where the front wheels should be to protect nose and front of bed. Use a 2X4 across the top of planks as chock, and bolt it at ends. A thin spacer would let you slide the planks out after you unload. (I'm assuming you want to be able to close tailgate when not hauling the cart?) A shim at the back of bed will act as a fulcrum. While the front wheels are over the tailgate, the front of boards will want to come up. As soon as front wheels cross the fulcrum, no more force on the bolts. Even after the rear wheels get on the board, the fat kid is on the seesaw.


This all makes a lot of sense.

I think instead of drilling holes in my bed i could engineer a support System that attaches to my tie downs.

Thanks for the input!
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Old 02-11-2019, 10:35 AM   #19
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This all makes a lot of sense.

I think instead of drilling holes in my bed i could engineer a support System that attaches to my tie downs.

Thanks for the input!
It's yours. Many think that any change might reduce there resell value. I'm different. I buy a new vehicle not to put a nice one on the used market, but because I expect to get value out the vehicle by using it. Any change that I make, I think it will ad value for me, not because of what somebody else might think. But most would go into shock if I told them the last pickup I bought new and then sold I got $750 for it. But, I bought in '87, DW drove it for over 150,000 miles. I taught 2 kids to drive, and 2 others to use a manual transmission, and sold it '06. It was not a week old when I bolted a box to the floor of bed...
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Old 02-11-2019, 12:50 PM   #20
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I have a wench in the front of my bed and use arched ramps. Wench brings the cart up and in very easily and then store the ramps under the cart. Wench stays hooked on front with 2 straps
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Old 02-11-2019, 06:59 PM   #21
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Doesnít your wench complain about being tied up in the bed?
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Old 02-11-2019, 09:48 PM   #22
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Please don't consider HF ramps, a cart falling from cheap ramps will get you hurt. Stay with your research and get the long ramps.com get 4 good ratcheting straps not HF and take your cart and have fun .
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Old 02-11-2019, 11:20 PM   #23
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I use Harbor Freight folding ramps with my golf cart for 2 years now without any problems. My Cricket weights in a 305 pounds and not sure if I would put a 1000 or 1200 pound Golfcart on the folding ramps I have form HF.



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Please don't consider HF ramps, a cart falling from cheap ramps will get you hurt. Stay with your research and get the long ramps.com get 4 good ratcheting straps not HF and take your cart and have fun .
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