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Old 08-29-2013, 07:43 AM   #43
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Olddude, here is another option for you, its going to be same money, but a lot safer in long run. Aluminum trailer about $6500 +/-, steel trailer about $3000 +/-, Trailertoad about $3500 +/-. If you buy a steel trailer & trailertoad, you are in for same money, but you have no weight on your coach. Just something to consider.

I have trailertoad & aluminum trailer, now that I have been using for a while now, wish I would have gone steel trailer in lieu of aluminum. Nothing wrong with aluminum trailer, just could have saved myself some money.
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Old 08-29-2013, 01:17 PM   #44
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Just a word of caution. I didn't see anything about being sure there is enough tongue weight. I can see a possibility when loading bikes in front of the car the car might over load the rear. A motorcycle may not.
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Old 09-14-2013, 06:52 PM   #45
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Well I finally got around to trying to rig my trailer today. It didn't go as well as I planned. I've been through two different forms of tie downs and still don't have what I need. I think I've got it figured out now. The problem is that the distance between the tie down hooks is too far. Anyway, here's what it looked like with just the car on. Will post more pics as I make progress.

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Old 09-16-2013, 06:07 PM   #46
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I gave up on the bike in front and will be putting the bike in the rear. Pic to follow.
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Old 09-17-2013, 03:13 PM   #47
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For anyone that is towing a trailer, espically with a combination of vehicles, you should invest in a Trailer Tounge scale Sherline Trailer Tongue Weight Scale - 2,000-lb Capacity Sherline Tools 5780
I found that one of my combinations had a 1000 lb tongue weight where it should have been 600-700.
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:52 PM   #48
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Hi Old Dude 66, so are you pulling a jeep and then a trailer? Are there rules about pulling 2 vehicles? Our wing weighs 800 lbs, my ruckus, another 200. We are thinking of buying a diesel pusher with a 10k hitch. My husband says you have to have the tag axle to use a bike lift on the back of the RV. So we're trying to figure this out before we buy.
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:44 AM   #49
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Quote:
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Hi Old Dude 66, so are you pulling a jeep and then a trailer? Are there rules about pulling 2 vehicles? Our wing weighs 800 lbs, my ruckus, another 200. We are thinking of buying a diesel pusher with a 10k hitch. My husband says you have to have the tag axle to use a bike lift on the back of the RV. So we're trying to figure this out before we buy.
Y Roadrunner,
You have a PM.
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Old 09-18-2013, 10:10 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by gkgeiger View Post
Well I finally got around to trying to rig my trailer today. It didn't go as well as I planned. I've been through two different forms of tie downs and still don't have what I need. I think I've got it figured out now. The problem is that the distance between the tie down hooks is too far. Anyway, here's what it looked like with just the car on. Will post more pics as I make progress.

I have been looking at the location of the trailer axles. They appear to be located just about the middle of the bed. That would make it hard to get enough load on the hitch. When you look at how the car is setting. The center of the axles is just behind the mirror leaving more than half of the car behind center. Having said that, maybe the front axle is heavier than the rear but is it enough. Also maybe the front of the trailer is heavier than the rear. Be sure to check hitch weight when loaded.
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:43 AM   #51
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Quote:
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I have been looking at the location of the trailer axles. They appear to be located just about the middle of the bed. That would make it hard to get enough load on the hitch. When you look at how the car is setting. The center of the axles is just behind the mirror leaving more than half of the car behind center. Having said that, maybe the front axle is heavier than the rear but is it enough. Also maybe the front of the trailer is heavier than the rear. Be sure to check hitch weight when loaded.
That's why you need a Trailer Tongue scale, otherwise you are guessing at where the car should be on the trailer.
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Old 09-27-2013, 03:42 PM   #52
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It's almost done

As I previously stated, I figured out that the bike in front wouldn't work. So I put it behind the car. I borrowed a friends (he owns a trailer sales and welding business) tongue weight gauge. With the trailer loaded as you see it there is 500# tongue weight. I was shooting for 600# but I still have to mount my spare and MC loading ramp. I towed it behind my Chevy Colorado and it tows great, smooth and straight.













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Old 09-27-2013, 04:09 PM   #53
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Suggestion: I pulled a modified Jeep on a trailer for 10 years and found that the best way to secure the rig is to cross the front straps and rear straps. By doing this, the car/Jeep can't move any side to side.
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Old 09-27-2013, 04:48 PM   #54
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Good idea re the cross straps. I noted there is no LP on the trailer yet but I assume that is comimg.

Have you calculated the G force component vs the tensile strength of the tiedown straps and anchor points? This force could be lateral as well as front to back with some vertical component as you go over bumps.

Nylon straps for example would be more ductile, if I can use that word for non metalic material, than steel cables or chains so they would likely streach more before breaking, but you would not want any movememt in any direction. So streaching would not be desirable IMHO.

Good luck - that is a nice setup.
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Old 09-27-2013, 05:50 PM   #55
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Suggestion: I pulled a modified Jeep on a trailer for 10 years and found that the best way to secure the rig is to cross the front straps and rear straps. By doing this, the car/Jeep can't move any side to side.
Old dude,
I'm one also and I have always used crossed straps in the past although I don't feel it is necessary. In the past when I did this I was connecting the straps to the axle. This is not my first rodeo. I have owned several classic and custom cars and have trailered them many miles. Thanks for the reply.

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Good idea re the cross straps. I noted there is no LP on the trailer yet but I assume that is comimg.

Have you calculated the G force component vs the tensile strength of the tiedown straps and anchor points? This force could be lateral as well as front to back with some vertical component as you go over bumps.

Nylon straps for example would be more ductile, if I can use that word for non metalic material, than steel cables or chains so they would likely streach more before breaking, but you would not want any movememt in any direction. So streaching would not be desirable IMHO.

Good luck - that is a nice setup.
Libero,
Sorry but I don't know what you mean by LP. I don't need to calculate anything, since I'm using Mac's 10,000# polyester straps. All D-rings are fastened to the trailer with grade 8 bolts and 1/4" backing plates. I am currently using 5/16" chain in front because I don't have enough room for the straps. I may consider crossing them but I'm concerned about putting too much side load on the wheels. Thanks for your reply.
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Old 09-27-2013, 06:34 PM   #56
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He was referring to "license plate".
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