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Old 03-26-2006, 04:19 PM   #1
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I have the Aventa II and on my last trip, one of the legs doesn't seem to want to lock. When I went to unhook, I noticed that the lever was not taut like the other one.

Is this a problem? Don't they both have to lock?
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Old 03-26-2006, 04:19 PM   #2
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I have the Aventa II and on my last trip, one of the legs doesn't seem to want to lock. When I went to unhook, I noticed that the lever was not taut like the other one.

Is this a problem? Don't they both have to lock?
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Old 03-26-2006, 04:33 PM   #3
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To' Webster,

On 3rd Aventa II, first 2 gone because of my mistakes.

Arm not unlocking ?

The only time that happen on my II was when I wasn't level or at an angle, After, backing toad, or pulling forwafd to get load off of toad, it unlocked, sometimes I hit it down,, Raining,,

I hope this is an easy fix, Let me know.

Good luck Aime
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Old 03-26-2006, 06:36 PM   #4
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WEBSTER: I'm thinking both arms MUST have been locked while you were towing, otherwise your toad would have been swaying all over even if you were driving fairly straight. BOTH arms NEED to be fixed length to prevent sway. The fact that one lever was less "taut" than the other probably was a result of less tension from the way things "lined up" as you stopped. Next time you hook up to tow, have someone verify that both levers "snap" into up position as you pull forward going as straight as possible. Try using the lever on your US Gear brake to apply the toad's brakes to create the rolling resistance necessary to cause the desired locked condition. Once locked, the Aventa II arms should not release until you manually depress the levers. My rear view camera has a microphone and I turn the volume up all the way so I can hear my arms snap into locked position as I pull forward. Hope this helps, ED
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Old 03-27-2006, 06:18 AM   #5
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Webster, I had this same problem when I first starting using mine. When you press your lever to let the arms slide out, I somehow did not do this correct.
Now, I make sure both arms are in the down unlocked position. When I start off, I turn on the back up camera, make a left and a right to extend both arms. I watch in the camera and stop to see if they are locked. Once I started this, I have not had a problem.
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Old 03-28-2006, 12:07 PM   #6
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Hmmmm...when I checked the levers, Eugene (toad) was at an angle. When I unhooked, one arm was hard to release, but the other seemed to not have any resistance at all.

But, if Eugene would have swayed if both bars were not locked, then I must have been because there is no swaying. When I hook up, the DW goes out with Walkie Talkie and tells me when they pop up, then checks the Toad lights. She said she saw them pop up.

I like the idea of the brake method. Think I will use that next time.
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Old 03-28-2006, 05:27 PM   #7
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">She said she saw them pop up. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

WEBSTER: when the handles "pop up" the arms have become fully extended and the other end of the handle (inside the tube)has dropped in behind a solid piston-like end of the arm. This is what keeps the arms from coming back in whenever the toad is "pushing" instead of being pulled. When you depress the handles, that raises the handle end up to allow the "piston" to pass, thus the arms can retract. From what you have posted, I don't think you have a problem and it sounds like your Aventa II is working as designed.

I think it is still a good idea to test your USG brake with the lever. With the coach moving forward, at idle speed of course, depress the dash lever and the toad brake should bring the whole rig to a stop and set your towbar arms at the same time, if you are pulling straight ahead. Good luck, ED
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Old 04-07-2006, 10:11 AM   #8
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Webster
I also have the Aventa II. If your toad is cocked (at an angle) one of the arm releases could be hard to depress as it is under pressure - the other unlocks easily and may appear to be unlocked). This may result from curving into a site at an angle. I have had to occasionally "stomp" on the release lever to unlock it.
Many folks just hook up and go - letting the moho pull ahead and lock up the tow arms. I like to take the slack out of the tow arms by reversing the toad until BOTH arms snap up. I also think this is easier on the hitch system...
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Old 04-07-2006, 12:35 PM   #9
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I like to take the slack out of the tow arms by reversing the toad.............. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

RAYW: that method will certainly work also, but IF you use reverse on an automatic transimmission, then you are susposed to go back into 1,2,3, D and finally shift into neutral and let it idle for 2-3 minutes before shutting it off and towing. I'm afraid to ever put my toad in reverse while hooking up the Aventa II, for fear I might forget the above proceedure. I've read that "catastrophic" damage will occur if the auto tranny goes from reverse (or park) into neutral for towing, without first going into drive, immediately before the final neutral position.

Your comments about a cocked angle making one arm seem to be unlocked are quite correct. Please don't think my above comments are meant to be critical-they are not- they are meant to be just a reminder to folks who tow certain automatics of the recommended proceedure. ED
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Old 04-07-2006, 04:34 PM   #10
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Ed:

I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee and I don't think that 123D is necessary. Just put it in neutral, shift to neutral on the 4x4 and then put into Park, turn the key one small click and it's set to go. But, you may well be right on other vehicles.

The Toad was cocked and one arm was very, very difficult to disengage. The other one was easy and appeared to not be locked. I was in a space where I couldn't straighten both vehicles.

I liked the idea of using the Unified Toad brakes to give resistance. I'm going to try that next time. Also, the left and right method seemed to make sense.

Thanks for all your advice. I found it most helpful, as usual on IRV2.com
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Old 04-07-2006, 06:34 PM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">and I don't think that 123D is necessary </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
WEBSTER: you are correct. I was only thinking of the proceedure to be used when the drivetrain is like the one in my Saturn VUE. It uses a Honda engine and transaxle, so what I said may also apply to honda vehicles. ED
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Old 04-07-2006, 07:33 PM   #12
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I have the Falcon II . I have used it for the last 3 years. It seems like one of the arms doesn't lock right away either. My wife always checks it, as I pull forward, along with the signals and brake lights on the toad before we take off. I try and make a tight turn away from the unlocked arm when I take off to help engage it. In 35,000 miles I have always had both arms locked when I unhook.
In the last few months I started to push my Grand Cherokee back by hand until the locks engage. This also lets me know that the transfer case is in neutral and the parking brake is released.
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