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Old 02-02-2006, 05:50 AM   #15
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">My thoughts are, doesn't anyone read the manuals??? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'm wondering, too!

I suspect MANY dangerous towing arrangements are zipping about our highways every day. After doing a little basic research about towing with a MH, I was amazed how some simple (or simpleton) mistakes can create a potential rolling disaster. For example, I wonder how many folks simply skip any type of toad braking system? Scary!!!
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Old 02-03-2006, 01:43 AM   #16
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To; Tom N;

I guess it is common practice for us to Try Before We Buy, and see if it works before reading manuals.

My thoughts are " We can't change the way most humans do things, but we can surely point out a mistake, politely, when seen.

Remember, one of us could be traveling behind someone with an improper set-up and collide with toad when/if the base-plate rips off. Meybe, we have to be a little selfish when we do this, but I feel it has to be done and who better do it than IRVER2S ??

I hope this rattles some cages to act.

Thanks======= AJBJRVERS
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Old 02-03-2006, 09:01 AM   #17
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A GREAT article on towing toads

Just one excerpt....

By Mark Penlerick
Engineering Team Leader
Blue Ox Towing Products

Blue Ox's recommendation is that the receiver hitch of the motorhome should never be more than 4 inches higher than the baseplate attachment points. Four inches or less keeps the tow bar level with the ground or slightly angled up towards the coach from the car. The tow bar should never be angled "up" towards the car from the coach. If an extension is added for say a bike rack it is even more imperative the tow bar not be at a severe angle. Not only does it increase the leverage, but each connection adds more slack in the whole setup. It's all geometry and physics. Please, no groans, I know you enjoyed those classes! The farther back you move the pivot point of the tow bar from the center of gravity of the coach, the more vertical movement you get and the more leverage is applied to the receiver hitch, tow bar and the baseplate. See, that wasn't so bad!
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Old 02-03-2006, 03:16 PM   #18
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OK. So what do I do about my situation. MY Saturn tow bar connection will be about 12 1/2" above the ground and the MH receiver is about 21" above the ground. Will a drop receiver work "safely" for my application?
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Old 02-04-2006, 03:55 AM   #19
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BigRed,

I would HIGHLY recommend you contact your tow bar manafacturer....Nine inches is a lot!!

If you have Blue Ox equipment,here's their contact information.
Blue Ox Products | One Mill Road, Industrial Park | Pender, NE | 68047
888-425-5382 | 402-385-3360 (Fax) | Blue Ox | info@blueox.us
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Old 02-04-2006, 04:56 AM   #20
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">MY Saturn tow bar connection will be about 12 1/2" above the ground and the MH receiver is about 21" above the ground. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Get a drop adapter for the motorhome receiver. Get one with a 6" drop. A drop adapter will plug into your receiver and have another 2" receiver 6" lower. You'll plug the tow bar into the lower receiver. Camping World sells a 6" drop hitch receiver for $53.99.

http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...m?skunum=21578

Description

High-Low Drop Hitch levels your towed car-motorhome hitch connection when they are more than 6" out-of-level. Makes towing safer and smoother. Fits any 2" square hitch receiver, lowering the connection point 6". For use only to tow a car behind a motorhome; not for use for towing any type of trailer. Rated 6,000 lbs. GVWR and 100 lb. tongue wt.
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Old 02-04-2006, 05:12 AM   #21
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While Tom's 6" drop suggestion seems to work in theory,I would still call either Blue Ox or Roadmaster and get their opinion.

That's a lot of torque on an adapter in my thinking....
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Old 02-04-2006, 06:55 AM   #22
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The adapter I recommended is made by Roadmaster for towing a car with a tow bar.
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Old 02-04-2006, 08:19 AM   #23
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tom N:
The adapter I recommended is made by Roadmaster for towing a car with a tow bar. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Technically Tom,according to even a Roadmaster Technical Service Bulletin you're 100 percent right....

Still seems like a lot of "pressure" against the angled portion of the drop receiver.

With the towed vehicle now not technically "pushing" it's force horizontally against the "level" receiver on the motor home,but now almost entirely on the exaggerated "drop" receiver at that point,it just seems like a lot...

Yes, I know it's done every day and I would also imagine that braking systems would negate some of the "stress" at the drop, it's just my .02....
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Old 02-04-2006, 08:36 AM   #24
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Here are the specs from Roadmaster. I trust their engineering dept.

High-Low Drop Hitch levels your towed car-motorhome hitch connection when they are more than 6" out-of-level. Makes towing safer and smoother. Fits any 2" square hitch receiver, lowering the connection point 6". For use only to tow a car behind a motorhome; not for use for towing any type of trailer. Rated 6,000 lbs. GVWR and 100 lb. tongue wt.
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Old 02-04-2006, 09:10 AM   #25
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OK I give.....

Here's one I found.....Rated for up to 10,000 lb. and upto 1,000 lb. tongue weight.

Etrailer 6" 10K rated drop bar

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Old 02-04-2006, 09:23 AM   #26
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That drops a ball mount. I thought the subject was dropping a 2" receiver to a 2" receiver?
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Old 02-04-2006, 10:28 AM   #27
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Yep....you're right.....again.

I'll quit while I'm behind....
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Old 02-04-2006, 04:20 PM   #28
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Blue OX makes a 10k lb drop receiver. Maker sure it has a welded gusset plate on each side of the 90degree tube angles with a filler tube between the plates. The welded drop tube without a welded gusset plate is only rated for 5k lbs.
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