Battery drain on Honda CRV while towing

[Forza Tom]

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

I agree with almost everything you said. I added a couple of auto reset circuit breakers between the batteries and the bumper plugs on both vehicles to protect from shorting and to limit current flow. With RV chassis and Toad batteries charged, there is minimal current flow between the 2 systems. Electricity, like water, seeks to level out. When the RV engine is started, there might be a drop in RV voltage as the starter cranks, but the circuit breakers limit how much current can flow. Once the engine is started, the alternator is now 'pushing' current to the toad battery to maintain full charge. When we stop for the evening, I take the keys from the toad and lock it and unplug the umbilical to prevent any trouble.

The only advantage I see to a Toad Charge is it makes your wallet $100 thinner. It also provides pretty LED lights, IF you look under the hood to see them. If you want to keep everything connected when stopping, you could add a diode to the charge wire to prevent current flowing from the Toad back to the RV, just be aware the diode will reduce current flow a bit from the RV to the Toad. That shouldn't be an issue if the alternator works and the wires are appropriately sized.

I simply made a suggestion. Really!!!!!

[howzball]

Originally Posted by jondrew

Just did our initial trip (3-hour drive) with our new 2014 CRV. Haven't gotten a 4-down set up yet (can't decide an supplemental braking system), so I used my EZ Tow dolly. Much easier set up on the EZ Tow with the CRV than my old Murano. Smaller tires so the nets are easier to set up and there are tow hooks on the front of the CRV for the safety chains so I don't have to crawl under the car to attach the chains. My wife keeps bugging me to get a 4-down set up, but so far I'm kind of unmotivated based on what I've seen so far with the EZ Tow.

I don't get where people are complainInc about battery drain while towing CRVs. I put the key in, unlock the wheel, and just leave the key in the "off" position. I know the wheel won't lock up unless you pull the key. Just to make sure, I put a wrap of white electrical tape at the 12 O'clock position of my steering wheel and peek at it while turning the coach. You can see the steering wheel turn as you go. No battery drain at all.

What am I missing? Do you do something different when towing 4-down (other than cycle the trans before leaving and putting it in neutral)?

We're also in the process of getting a CRV ready to flat tow and I'm also curious what most people think is the reason the battery is draining. I'm guessing it's due to the navigation system in the CRV?
Is the fuse they're wanting pulled the Nav system fuse?

To the OP, does your CRV have nav or not? Pulling a fuse doesn't sound like a super expensive fix if that's all we're talking about here.

[Sweetbriar]

I flat tow an 05 CRV without the in dash NAV. No problems with battery drain but for braking I have a Ready Brute tow bar with a surge brake rather than something more active that requires power or such. Modern daily drivers have a very limit battery storage capacity and we have to consider such when setting up for towing.

The problem with a CRV is the in dash NAV system which is active when the key turned to unlock the steering wheel. Same as the radio which can be turned off easily. Several options concerning the NAV system. Pull the fuse, disconnect the battery, add a charge line from the coach or add the disconnect switch in the fuse panel. Each have pros and cons. Either your budget or skills will determine which one an owner chooses.

[coupevilleDF]

Ours does not have the navigation system but still goes dead. The accessory panel, which includes the monitor for the backup camera seems to be the issue. We are still debating whether to install the fuse bypass or a charge line.

[flaggship1]

This big GPS...
The button in the middle is the fusemaster switch.

Arizona raindrops too.

[coupevilleDF]

Originally Posted by flaggship1

This big GPS...
The button in the middle is the fusemaster switch.

Arizona raindrops too.

Did you have to drill a hole or does it replace the empty knockout?

Where in Arizona? Headed there in a couple of days.

[flaggship1]

Originally Posted by coupevilleDF

Did you have to drill a hole or does it replace the empty knockout?

Where in Arizona? Headed there in a couple of days.

We're in Apache Junction until Feb 1st.

So here's what happened. Until Joe (MSHappyCamper) learned and posted that there is a special fuse puller in the fuse box under the hood, I could not get that fuse out. Others tried. No luck. So I had put off doing the job. Never even saw the fuse puller, but trusted it was there since I bought the car new.

I was at Camping World in St. George, Utah and happened to see the Roadmaster Fusemaster in the tow bar aisle. Went to the service desk and told them about the fuse situation. A tech was standing there and he said I bet I can get it. Famous last words. Nope - not until he used the special puller under the hood.

So he says - do ya want us to do it. How much. I don't recall what he said but it was reasonable and the guy was all over it.

I asked him the same question and I believe he said...
Both there is a knock out but it's tight under there so I drilled a hole. I didn't question it. But guess what? The battery hasn't died once. And it looks OEM.

The only draw back is loosing the radio presets. No biggie.