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Old 10-15-2013, 11:43 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gemini5362 View Post
I hook everything up with my towbar. Check the toad is in neutral, steering wheel unlocked etc. I then take off in my motor home you can feel when the arms reach the end of the travel. I have yet to take off anywhere that I did not have to hit my brakes within a few feet while pulling out of a rv park parking lot etc. I watch the toad to make sure that when I stop it does not have one side continue for a few inches. Some of the methods here might work very well to make sure you have them locked in. I noticed one person put his emergency brake on and made sure his vehicle locked both arms. I would forget to take the emergency brake off I am sure. Obviously you realized that one arm did not lock in so however you checked to make sure of that worked. Call blue ox and ask them what to do about it. Advice on here is great and helps but for something like this the manufacturer is going to make sure that you are safe.
Don't ask me how I know, but, putting on the EBrake is a BAD idea...
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Old 10-15-2013, 01:37 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by dennis45 View Post
Don't ask me how I know, but, putting on the EBrake is a BAD idea...
Hmmm when doing a downhill/uphill hookup, how is is putting then ebrake on a bad idea?

No one would really be dumb enough to take off with the brake on, or would they? Just wondering. LOL (Don't have a smiley face on this keyboard).

I have been doing that for many years, but I always double check everything before I hit the road. Only put the brake on for a "hill" hookup by the way. You have to prevent the car from rolling, so it must be in park, or Ebrake on.

Don't use the brake on the level.
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Old 10-15-2013, 03:09 PM   #31
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I use the e-brake all the time 'cause the car needs to idle in neutral for 3 minutes for transmission lubrication.

I use that time to hook everything up and check the lights. Usually takes more than three minutes to get'r all done.

The very last items are to reach in and turn off the engine, flip the fuse bypass switch and release the e-brake.

If you do it the same way ALL the time then it's hard to forget UNLESS you get distracted. That's why I won't let anyone talk to me until I am completely finished. Then and ONLY then will I listen to someone speaking otherwise I am oblivious to what they are saying.

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Old 10-15-2013, 03:18 PM   #32
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What about the rubber sleeves on the arms?
How did you replace them.
Also can you lubricate them with W-D 40????
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Old 10-15-2013, 04:06 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
I use the e-brake all the time 'cause the car needs to idle in neutral for 3 minutes for transmission lubrication.

I use that time to hook everything up and check the lights. Usually takes more than three minutes to get'r all done.

The very last items are to reach in and turn off the engine, flip the fuse bypass switch and release the e-brake.

If you do it the same way ALL the time then it's hard to forget UNLESS you get distracted. That's why I won't let anyone talk to me until I am completely finished. Then and ONLY then will I listen to someone speaking otherwise I am oblivious to what they are saying.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Exactly - common sense wins again, use what works for you. I double check everything when I hookup. I always check the car inside after I hook up the outside. Sometimes it makes sense to use the ebrake
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Old 10-21-2013, 05:20 PM   #34
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Well, about a week ago we returned from a trip from home to Johnson City, TX, then San Antonio TX and back home. it was the first time towing the 2013 Lincoln MKX with the Blue Ox package and AFO.

Two thoughts of process on hooking up, the first being the Blue Ox manual method where on bar locks and the other doesn't, is to turn the wheel in the direction of the unlocked bar, get in the MH and just pull forward a few feet. DW is my helper and watched as I pulled forward and within a foot or two the lock snapped into position.

The other method was to get in the car and revers pull on the bar. I think there is less strain in doing the first method as pulling back on the bars to lock one seems to put some heavy bumping tension on the system, but it worked. A few more tries of both methods will lead me to a comfortable setting.

For unhooking I found that if one lock was tight because of tension on the arm I just had to get in and turn the wheel and it loosened right up. That's a no brainer. I have not been in a position of upward/downward slope.

As for E-brake or in park, my setting up is to leave the car running and the last thing I do before driving forward with the MH, even to just lock a bar is to get in the running car (5 minutes required before towing) and go through the process: E-brake off, shift in neutral, turn engine off and in acc. position, white cloth tied around the top of the steering wheel. (Bunny Ears). Then as I move from the curb side of the street towing I look at the wheels on the toad - left side is turning. within 50 feet I make a right hand turn - right wheels are turning. This may be something in the pre-check of the lighting system when DW stands outside and we go through the light sequence to make sure everything is working. It would be just as easy at that point to check the rolling wheels. (Hope I don't leave her behind.)
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:10 PM   #35
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I have to agree with you about BlueOx. Top notch American business.
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:13 AM   #36
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I'm with most people about hooking up the tow vehicle. You must do everything that you are comfortable with, to insure the vehicle is hooked up correctly. But I someone complexed when a couple of responders wrote, "That they turned in the direction of the unlocked bar." I always turn opposite of the unlocked bar to make it extend. Now I'm wondering if I doing it wrong? I can use the Blue OX braking system in the toad to give me any braking that I need to hold the toad while I pull forward slightly to lock the bars.
This has really got me thinking about it.
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:58 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by poppopc View Post
What about the rubber sleeves on the arms?
How did you replace them.
Also can you lubricate them with W-D 40????
Good question, i too would like to know!

Where can we get replacement booties for the Blue Ox towbar and has anyone replaced theirs?

What's the best lubricant to use on sliding part of arms?
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Old 10-29-2013, 11:13 AM   #38
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Once I have everything hooked up correctly and the lights checked out, I never fool around with the car trying to lock the bars.

If I did that then I would have to go through the transmission lubrication process once again otherwise I would burn up my transmission. The Honda transmission in my Saturn Vue requires a specific procedure to follow to ensure that the transmission is fully lubricated before driving off for the day.

I simply get in the coach, pull forward quickly which locks the bars. I always have the rear-view camera on so I can monitor the car while towing. I then make a quick stop while watching the car. If it moves one way or the other, then one of the bars hasn't locked. That has never happened.

I remember one trip where once everything was locked and in place we started down the road. About 5 miles later down the road just before we were to get on the freeway I noticed that the car was weaving back and forth. I pulled over to see what was going on. The car and the Blu-Ox Tow Bar were fine but when I looked up at the camera there were about 10-12 pop rivets that had broken off of my air intake vent where my rear-view camera was mounted. That was causing the camera to bounce around which made you think that the tow bar was not locked.

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Old 10-29-2013, 11:14 AM   #39
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The rubber bellows are available from almost all Blue Ox dealers. They are rather inexpensive and fasten on with zip ties. I removed the end bracket to make it easier to slide back on after cleaning and lubing the rod. Check
Blue Ox's website for instructions.

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Old 10-29-2013, 11:21 AM   #40
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What about the rubber sleeves on the arms?
How did you replace them.
Also can you lubricate them with W-D 40????
The rubber sleeves are held on with black zip-ties.

Blue-Ox replaces those all the time during their service.

WD-40 is a good water displacement product BUT not a good lubricant.

I would recommend using Tri-Flow for your lubrication needs. It works great on the PacBrake too among many other useful purposes.

Tri-Flow TF20006 Superior Lubricant - 12 oz. Aerosol : Amazon.com : Automotive

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Old 10-29-2013, 11:24 AM   #41
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Blue Ox Towbars

If you go to the Blue Ox website (the one in Pender, NE) you will find a video of how to service the towbars.

Never use WD40 as a lubricant. It gums up over time. Use a silicone spray lubricant. I use a teflon lubricant Tri-Flow which is expensive and available at locksmiths if not at your hardware store.

I have never had any problems pulling forward to lock the bars.
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Old 10-29-2013, 11:42 AM   #42
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Agree

Quote:
Originally Posted by huntnski View Post
Good question, i too would like to know!

Where can we get replacement booties for the Blue Ox towbar and has anyone replaced theirs?

What's the best lubricant to use on sliding part of arms?
As mentioned in previous post, remove end brackets to replace bellows, and as far as lubrication goes, I use silicone grease, from what I have read this is better as petroleum based grease will not be good for bellows.

Hope it is correct, no troubles so far.

I use the neutral, hook up, push car back, then have dw pull rig slightly forward with wheel of toad turned toward unlocked side until it locks. Works fine every time, and makes her feel like she has "driven" the rig!!
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