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Old 01-23-2013, 05:55 PM   #1
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Blue Ox base plate install help 2011-13 grand cherokee

Just bought a new 2013 Grand Cherokee and need advice on Blue Ox base plate install. Looking over the instructions and the plastic rivets to remove and replace. On my Saturn the rivets were removable. Blue Ox mentions a plastic rivet tool, is it necessary. Any other advice is appreciated. I'm using wiring kit calling for separate bulb in the rear requiring holes in the tail light asembly. Jeep design is standard with 2011 - 2013.
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:02 PM   #2
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I can't help with the rivet issue but.......I do recommend using diodes for the tail light/brake lights vs. the separate bulb. My experience withteh separate bulb is that they are not as bright as the stock fixture with a diode. YMMV but that's my experience.
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:39 PM   #3
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My 07 grand cherokee had the plastic rivets i would assume like you are talking about. After installing base plates i used a normal rivet gun to install new rivets. You can buy a cheap rivet gun at hardware store or walmart. Make sure the size of the rivet will fit the rivet gun. If not i have drilled the gun out so a bigger rivet would fit.
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teddy1 View Post
Just bought a new 2013 Grand Cherokee and need advice on Blue Ox base plate install. Looking over the instructions and the plastic rivets to remove and replace. On my Saturn the rivets were removable. Blue Ox mentions a plastic rivet tool, is it necessary. Any other advice is appreciated. I'm using wiring kit calling for separate bulb in the rear requiring holes in the tail light asembly. Jeep design is standard with 2011 - 2013.
Come on over we'll do my 2012 Grand Cherokee too. They used diodes in my wrangler and the front parking lights come on when I turn the coach headlights on. The headlights on the toad glow dim when the coach lights are on too!
So I would use stand alone lamps.
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:59 PM   #5
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Come on over we'll do my 2012 Grand Cherokee too. They used diodes in my wrangler and the front parking lights come on when I turn the coach headlights on. The headlights on the toad glow dim when the coach lights are on too!
So I would use stand alone lamps.
If wired correctly with a good quality diode that is impossible. You may want to look into having your re-wired correctly using a quality diode.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:11 PM   #6
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My previous toe vehicle was a 2002 GC. I purchased a rivets tool at one of the parts houses, Auto Zone or Oriellys. I also used a large screw drive to assist in removing the rivets. You can also purchase replacement rivets at the auto parts store. The GC was a very good tow vehicle.
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:50 PM   #7
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I've had both of my Jeeps (Wrangler and Liberty) wired using the extra bulbs. If the wiring in your coach is providing the proper voltage, they work fine.

Interesting thing my installer told me - Jeeps are also sold in Europe, and they require an extra bulb for something. So there's already a place in the housing to install the extra, it's just not used in the US. Makes for a very easy install.
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:56 AM   #8
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Like others have said, get a standard rivet tool that the plastic rivet fits in. I used a TowDaddy wiring kit. It's not cheap but it just plugs in the the existing wiring and uses the existing bulbs.
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:09 AM   #9
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I've put in lots of plastic rivets with a regular rivet gun, just takes more time.

Some parts stores "rent" tools. You pay the price of the tool upfront, then when you return the tool they refund your money.


On our '05 I had to remove the grille first, it was held in place by these clips.

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The plastic rivets are easiest if you knock the center back through with a punch.

Also take note of the 7mm screw right at the end of the bumper cover, going up into the fender.

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Old 01-24-2013, 09:48 AM   #10
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the plastic retainers can be re-used if you are careful removing them, if not they are not very expensive at the auto parts store. The plastic retainer tool can also be purchased at NAPA, Auto Zone etc. for around $7.00 and makes the job really easy.
For the type of clips in the photo above, take a small flat screwdriver (pocket style) and pry up on the center insert "rivet", when it is pulled out about 1/4" the outer part should be loose enough to slide your new tool underneath to pop the whole thing out.
When replacing put the retainer into the hole until the outer part is flush and then push the center in until it snaps into place flush with the outer portion.

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Old 01-24-2013, 04:10 PM   #11
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If wired correctly with a good quality diode that is impossible. You may want to look into having your re-wired correctly using a quality diode.

Not impossible because they can fail that is why I dont use them and it could cause a world of problems back feeding these new computer vehicles , but a lot of folks do use them.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:12 PM   #12
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The type of rivets the OP is refering to are not plastic pop rivets as some posts assumed, but plastic push rivets...pop rivet guns do not work on these.
workinrvrs is correct that there is a tool made to remove the rivets without ruining the rivets via a punch or other aggressive methods. I have removed too many of these with a pocket knife and needle nose pliers, but the tool is great. Lisle makes the tool and can be found at most auto parts stores. "Lisle 35260 Plastic Fastener Remover"
Other tools that may also be helpful
"Astro Pneumatic 4524 Auto Fastener and Molding Removal Tool Set, 11-Piece"
$22.40
In Stock
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC
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Old 01-24-2013, 05:06 PM   #13
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Jeff753 and KIX, the diodes are only in the turn signal wires and depending on the vehicle's internal wiring the front parking lights can come on with the tail lights.
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:23 PM   #14
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Types of bumper fasteners

These are the different types of plastic fasteners used to hold bumper covers on.

This is the most confusing type. It looks like the plastic rivets when closed, but can open 2 different ways.

Type 1 as shown. Type 2 requires you to push the center in 3/4 of the way, then you can remove the fastener.

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The style on the far left is mostly used underneath by the air dam. Second from the left is most commonly found up top and under the grille (like in my prior photo). Third is a christmas tree fastener (found in many differing sizes) used mostly in wheel wells. Lastly is a variation of the first 2, only with a threaded keeper pin. Again found mostly in the wheel wells.

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Now onto the plastic rivet. I included a medal 1/4 inch rivet (used to hold door glass in) to give an idea of size. Chrysler has used these rivets for a great many years to hold there wheel liners in. The head size is the only part that will very in size (until you get to Fords cowl panels). Shaft size are all the same.

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Rivet guns. Top 1/4 inch rivet gun, used mostly for installing door glass. Can be used on plastic rivets. Bottom left is a standard medal rivet gun. On the right is 1 style of plastic rivet gun. Makes installing plastic rivets a 1 squeeze event.

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I have, however, installed plastic rivets using wire cutters and a clip tool. After all you're just collapsing plastic.
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