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Old 01-11-2015, 10:39 AM   #15
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After hooking-up, I don't back the MH up, either. I pull forward [gently] and turn the steering wheel of the MH side-to-side a bit. The tail swing of the MH is enough to get the towbar to latch.

I agree ... to unhook, I turn the steering wheel of the toad side-to-side a bit to get the levers to unlock. Unless on perfectly level ground, we almost always need to do this.

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Old 07-04-2017, 01:16 PM   #16
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Exclamation Set Screws

For those that can't get the adjusters to turn, there is a set screw on the side of the square tube that has to be loosened first. Don't forget to re-tighten when finished!
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Old 07-04-2017, 01:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smlranger View Post
If you have the car perfectly aligned behind the coach, the arms will lock when you gently back up the car. Most times, only one will lock and when you start pulling the car with the coach, the other will lock, especially when you make a turn in the direction that fully extends the unlocked arm.

If only one of mine locks after hook up and backing up toad, I just watch the bar in my rear view camera as I start to move the coach forward and I always see the unlocked arm engage (lever flips up).
Exactly.

However in practice I usually don't back the toad to lock. I just watch and feel when I first move the coach, both lock right away if straight, if not straight one locks right away and then the other.
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Old 07-04-2017, 02:02 PM   #18
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I've been towing for years, and have always just slowly driven the coach forward and away. When I arrived at my destination and was ready to unhook, both bars were always locked.
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Old 07-06-2017, 12:21 PM   #19
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I always back up gently until at least one of the arms on the Aventa LX locks. I do this before I put the transfer case in neutral. When unhooking, I put the transfer case in gear before trying to unhook the tow bar. I have this vision of being between the motorhome and the toad as I unhook and the toad starts rolling one way or the other.
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Old 07-09-2017, 10:15 AM   #20
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I have found that when unhooking, if either side is "bound up" (won't release), I can usually push the car back slightly by leaning on the bumper, and that's enough to get the pin out. Easier than getting in the car to turn the steering wheel.
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