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Old 04-16-2010, 07:17 PM   #1
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Brakemaster 9000 Update

Talked with Roadmaster/Breakemaster tech support this afternoon, and they tell me that it sounds like a short in the wire running from the LED to the back of the MH. Looks like I will be slowly tracing a wire about 35 feet inside a wire bundle. Thanks for all the suggestions and great advice, anyone got any ideas on finding a short in the wire.

Rich
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Old 04-16-2010, 07:43 PM   #2
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Run a new wire and either pull the old one out or abandon it.
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:56 PM   #3
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Kix; thanks for the idea, I'll find the wire, probably cut it off and just leave it while I run a new wire. It would be a lot easier if it wasn't inside of a plastic housing.

Rich
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Old 04-16-2010, 11:31 PM   #4
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Before you go to the trouble of trying to trace the run of wire, here are a few suggestions:

1. Since you are going to abandon it anyway, I'd cut the wire off the dash light. Then use an ohm meter on a high scale hooked to the wire that you just cut and a very good clean frame ground. If you don't see a low resistance, you don't have a short. I'd lean towards this because a ture short should have caused you to blow a fuse in the toad.
2. If you do have a short, it is likely not in the middle of a span but someplace where the wire makes a transition.I'd start under the drive's console and only look at the wire carefully where it goes through things like the floorboards or around things where it may have rubbed. My wire runs right up the inner channel on the chassis ot where it crosses over behind my genset to enter the driver's compartment. If I had a wire problem, that entry point is where I would start my tracing.
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Old 04-17-2010, 02:31 PM   #5
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Chasfm11; If you don't think it's a short, and I have to agree with the blown fuse theroy, which I can not find any blown and as far as I can tell I have a good ground would you have any idea what might be causing this problem. Like I had said previosly, every thing worked good last year until I got ready to take a vacation in October then all was okay except the LED light. Nothing was changed that would cause this problem. Have you ever heard of a Brake-Lite relay going bad? I'm starting to grasp at straws now to get this rectified soon.

Thanks to all for any ideas and suggestions

Rich
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Old 04-17-2010, 10:30 PM   #6
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I've suggested a couple of the ways that I would troubleshoot it if it were my problem. Connecting a 12v battery to the frame of the MH with the positive leg of that battery connected directly to the Brakemaster wire on the MH will tell you immediately that the wire and light are go - or not. If you do that and the light doesn't light, I'd cut the light bulb off and connect it directly across the 12 volt battery terminals. It either lights or it doesn't. The only caution is that the connector on the MH wire needs to be clean enough to make good electrical contact. Total troubleshooting time for those two steps should be less than 5 minutes.

I've worked on the lights on sailboat trailers for years. We always have trouble with them because the lights are getting dunked in the water when the boat is launched and retrieved and the water corrodes everything that it touches. The most common cause of any light not working is a poor ground,. This is usually caused by a connection where water has worked on the metal. It is a very rare case where the wires themselves are damaged unless you have a mouse, rat or squirrel trying to eat them..Wires do get pinched around connecting points but that has been a small percentage of the total troubles that I've seen.

Anybody who has ever worked on trailer lighting problems should be able to help you. When you describe that the wire runs from the cold side of the brake pedal switch, through wire and connectors to a light on the MH dash, they should be able to figure out how to divide and conquer the situation. It is about as simple an arrangement as I've seen.
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Old 04-18-2010, 01:52 PM   #7
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Chasfm11; Thanks for the detailed information on how to test the light, I'm getting a new 12 volt battery for riding lawn mower today and will be using it to test with and will redo all the groundss to make sure they are clean/tight. I also have an electrician friend who is willing to assist me so hopefully we will get it figured out soon.

Thank you once again.

Rich
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Old 04-19-2010, 09:17 PM   #8
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brakemaster 9000 update

Tested the LED and it lit as did the old one also. Checked the grounds which were clean and tight. Now it is on to futher testing, something is wrong somewhere, is there anyone in Southern Colorado area (Colorado Spring/ Pueblo)are that has experience with the brakemaster system that would be willing to work with me on this?

Rich
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Old 04-20-2010, 08:18 AM   #9
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The Brakemaster dash indicator light is a simple circuit from the toad's brake pedal light switch to the light in the dash and then to ground. You can trace the wiring through the harness fairly easily - it is completely separate from the stop/tail/turn system. The 12v comes from the car system and so a good ground is needed between coach and toad in addition to the wire from toad brake switch to dashboard light.

There is nothing complex here - you just have to follow the wire. Check for voltage at various points while the toad brake pedal is pressed down and figure out where the open circuit is.

Note that if you disconnect the toad battery or pull certain fuses on the toad, there will be no 12v at the toad brake switch and therefore no power for the indicator light on the coach dashboard.
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Old 04-20-2010, 09:23 AM   #10
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pappaono, I'm confused by your reply.

The purpose of connecting the lawn mower battery was to determine if your problem was in the MH or the toad. In troubleshooting, this is simple divide and conquer logic.
If you connected the battery to the point on the rear of the MH where the umbilical cord from the toad connnects and the light on the MH dash came on, the problem isn't on the MH side. Let's assume that is what you meant to say.

As Gary points out, the toad side circuit (assuming that only the Brakemaster kit parts were used) is very simple. There is a wire that connects directly from the brake light switch on the toad's brake pedal and runs to the front bumper of the toad where the umbilical cord is connected. Using an "ice pick" type tester, you either do or do not get the test light on when you have someone step on the toad's brake pedal while the ice pick connector is touching that wire at the bumper.

If you do get a good test light, your problem is in the umbilical wire itself or the connectors on it. If you didn't get a good test light on the toad, either the wire form the connector has been damaged, perhaps where it goes through the toad's firewall, or the splice connector on the wire which ties it to the toad's brake light wire is not making proper contact.

I'll say again. There is nothing unique to the Brakemaster setup. Any good auto electrical guy can fix this for you. You just have to get it to the point where you know which vehicle the problem is in.
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