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Old 07-09-2012, 04:04 PM   #15
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I looked at one today and was wondering if it would work for me aslo. I have a Berkshire 390 RB with a 340 ISB Cummins rated at 5000lbs towing. That is getting close .I think the curb weight was 4800-4950. What brake system do you use and what tow bar? I would also welcome input from folks that have done this for awhile. Is this pushing it? I live in MI and plan some trips but mostly not up and down montains all every day. If you don't mind what's it cost to get all hooked up tow bar base plate brakes wired?
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Old 07-10-2012, 02:36 PM   #16
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Enclave information

I have only towed mine the one time so I am sure there will be replies from others with a lot more experience than I have. I can answer one of your questions with how I implemented my towing experiences and I can give you some of the prices I paid for setting up the towing. I purchased a use Blue Ox tow bar with 10,000 pound towing capacity. I paid 300.00 for that from a craigslist ad. I looked at the installation instructions for a blue ox baseplate and although I am fairly handy with tools and I have a friend that is extremely good at fabrications I decided to have an authroized blue ox dealer install the baseplate. A part of the decision to do that was liabliity issues. The dealer I had install it was listed on the blue ox website as being an authorized dealer. If something should happen (which I really doubt as being a possibility) And the car should seperate from the tow bar I can defend my self as to part of the liability by showing the baseplate was installed by a authorized dealer. The Dealer charged me 400.00 to install the baseplate. I had the dealer order the baseplate itself and they charged 475.00 for it. I realize I could have gotten it quite a bit cheaper on the internet but again I wanted to have that entire install done by the dealer and it was worse it to me to pay the extra money and have them order and install the entire package. The 2012 enclave uses computer board lights so you only have the computer line going back to the lights themselves. I elected to not use the wiring of the car. My dealer had misunderstood my request not to get the wiring done for the baseplate and had gotten started wiring it. He had the 6 pin plug and wiring harness already attached to the car when I found out about it and stopped him. We came to a financial agreement he left what he had installed in place and I did not have to crawl under the car to run wiring. I would strongly suggest doing that also. My friend and I made a light for the back of the car. My enclave has a a receiver hitch. We took two inch light wall square tubing. and drilled the hole for the pin to mount it in the reciever hitch. We then took a piece of 36 inch and welded it to the tubing going into the reciever ( welded reciever tubing in the middle) The 36 inch length is a bit short but works well and keeps your lighs from being in front of the exhaust. By mounting the lights on the receiver they are out of the way of opening the rear hatch. We took a piece of 1/8th inch plate and cut it just slightly larger than the back of the lights. We welded these plates onto the end of the 36 inch piece of tubing. We drilled holes in the tubing and plate center where we could run the wiring inside of the tubing. We mounted the lights to the plate and ran the wiring internally. I wired a 4 pin trailer conductor onto the end of the wiring the dealer had ran and wired the appropriate 4 wire conductor to the plate. I used led lights with chrome rings for the lights. these were 20.00 each I could have used standard trailer lights for about 10.00 each and brought the cost down considerably but I liked the way the LED with the chrome ring looked on the car. It took us approximately 3 hours from start to finish for this project and I have approximately 50 dollars in materials tied up with it. If i want to take the lights off I can store them in the compartment under the floor above where the spare tire is kept. That is another reason for the sizes we chose there is a nice compartment there and I can put all my towing materials including the light in it.

I have not purchased my brake sytem yet I am still looking at options. I know I am going to get flamed but to be honest the 150 mile trip I towed my enclave on I did not realize that it was back there to be honest. I did not notice much difference in the power of the motor home. I have a 400 hp cummins. When I hit my brakes to stop it did not seem to be a difference in breaking time. I was driving in smaller mountains on this trip and did not have any performance or brakeing problems. That being said I am going on a trip out west this fall and crossing some large mountain ranges I figure the brakes on the motor home will have enough to do without trying to stop the enclave so I will have a braking system before I attempt that. But for what I am doing locally I dont see it as being a big problem.

Hopefully my experiences will help you in your decision. My wife traded her Nissan Murano in for the enclave and she loves it. We wanted something towable that had three row seating for kids and grandkids and the enclave seems to be fitting the bill for that. We are getting about 19 to 20 mpg for all around city/ highway driving.

If someone will tell me how to include them here I will show the picture of the enclave with the lights on it. I uploaded them to the IRV website but do not know how to include them in a post.
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:05 PM   #17
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That is great info thanks for taking the time to explain the wiring for the lights. I'm still shopping for a enclave looking for a deal. I hate to buy new but I may end doing that. Lots we have looked at have to many miles on them. To post pictures I use my I phone and it's easy there is a + on the top hit that and pull the picture from the camera or your files. I don't have the HP you have but I think it will tow fine. And like you I will worry about brakes when we head west this winter.
Thanks again.
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Old 07-10-2012, 06:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phil57 View Post
That is great info thanks for taking the time to explain the wiring for the lights. I'm still shopping for a enclave looking for a deal. I hate to buy new but I may end doing that. Lots we have looked at have to many miles on them. To post pictures I use my I phone and it's easy there is a + on the top hit that and pull the picture from the camera or your files. I don't have the HP you have but I think it will tow fine. And like you I will worry about brakes when we head west this winter.
Thanks again.
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I am going to hope that is a picture of the enclave with the light bar attached. I dont know how prices are going we recieved really good financing on our 2012 and I just saw a commercial where North West Arkansas gmc/buick dealer was offering 7000.00 incentives on enclaves. The only issue I have is when you pull the two fuses to tow it I get an engine warning light when i put them back in and start the car. If i let the car set for about 15 minutes they seem to go away.

If you read some of the posts against not haveing a brakeing unit people are pretty insistent how bad a practice it is. One of the things I considered was I was going a short distance and if I felt it was any problem we could unhitch the enclave and my wife could drive it. I also want to point out that the literature for me MH says the suspension and the brakes are designed to handle a 10,000 pound tow load and the tow bar can also handle that large a tow load. I do not know I would want to take a chance with the vehicle weight being close to my maximum limit when it comes to not having a brakeing unit. But that is a decision everyone has to make for themselves.
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Old 07-10-2012, 09:19 PM   #19
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I tow a 2010 Enclave. Have pulled it at least 3000 miles. The check engine light comes on because you are pulling fuses and killing all power to the computer. That's what it is telling you, 'I've lost all power'! The light resets itself after driving for awhile. The code will remain in the system until reset, but the light will not come back on unless you pull the fuse again. Look into the auto relay sold by PPL RV Equipment in Texas (google PPL motorhomes). It simply kills the power as soon as you plug the light cable from the coach to the car, just like you pulling the fuse. Very simple. Disconnect the cable and the power is back on. (You will still get the check engine light). Costs $75.

The Enclave is an awesome vehicle = to drive and to tow. Enjoy yourselves.
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:19 AM   #20
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We tow a 2008 Enclave and only pull 1 fuse per the manual (Batt #1). Have had a check engine light once that went out after a few start ups. Vehicle tows great with no wandering, tire wear or bouncing.
For lights we used the kit from Blue Ox that uses new lights and does not use any of the vehicle wiring. So far, no problems with that either. Ours is the AWD verision and no problems with that either.
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:22 PM   #21
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Towing my enclave to california

I made my first big tow with the 2012 enclave. I did not have any problems. I started the engine when I stopped to go to the bathroom rather than when I stopped for fuel. I have a 150 gallon tank. I do not have a 150 gallon bladder. I made a small circuit to get away from pulling the fuses. I noticed where someone mentioned the relay assembly that pulls the battery cable when you plug in. I do not know why but they do not offer that for the 2012 enclave so I was not sure if there was a reason why you have to have the battery connected on the 2012. I also like towing exactly like the manual says to tow in case of warranty issues. I found 2 fuses that were single pole double throw 12 volt activated. They will handle 70 amps on normally open or normally closed contacts. ( most double throw fuses I found would handle 50 or 60 amps on the normally open contact but only 30 or 40 on the normally closed and we need the normally closed to carry the current) the fuses were 10.00 so I ordered two of them for both fuses. I know one fuse is only 15 amps but overkill never hurt anything. I made spade terminals to fit in where the fuses go. ( Made is the operative word I could not find the right terminals to replace them with so I made some) I hooked the relays up to seperate fuses in line with the normally closed contacts and replaced the factory fuses with the spade terminals going to the relay. I then hooked the power for the fuses to the +12 volts coming from my 7 pin motorhome connector. I hooked the other side of relay power to the negative lead coming out of the 7 pin. On my alegro bus the +12 volt only is applied to the connector when the key is on. When I turn the key on with the motorhome it applies power to the relays and disconnects the fuse. When i turn it off the relay drops out and puts the two fuses back in. I put the relays on a Piece of plexiglas and mounted that on the firewall with velcro. If i need to take the car to a dealer I can disconnect the whole system and take it off so that the dealer does not have the relay system to call a reason for system failure should that happen.

I had a problem on the trip with my enclave battery going dead. I believe that it was a weak battery when I bought the car and the brake system drained it down totally. Plus starting it and only running it 5 minutes did not give the system time to recharge the battery. I modified my original circuitry with some diodes. I could not get any heavy current diodes cheaply and radio shack had a package of 4 6amp diodes for under 3.00.
I mounted the diodes at the same junction as the 12 volts coming from the Motor home for the relays. I then ran a wire from the cathode (negative side) of the diode to the positive side of the battery. The diodes will allow current to flow from the motor home through the diode to the battery and charge it while I am driving. The reason for using a diode is that it will allow current to flow from the motor home to the battery but will block the battery voltage from picking up the relays all the time. I have not tried using this sytem yet but I installed it today and the battery did not energize the relays so it should work fine. If anyone wants a picture, circuit diagram, where to find the relays email me I will be glad to share. If anyone does not want to try to make them let me know I thought about making some and selling them for anyone that could not make their own. Anyone with basic electronic skills can make one. I liked the fact that when I turned off the motor home I could just go start the car, I did not have to put fuses in or take fuses out or unhook anything. I also worry about constantly removing and replacing fuses eventually will hurt the mechanical connection between the fuseholders and the fuses. This stops that from being a problem.
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