Buying Toad - Cherokee Trailhawk

[FLSteve]

Originally Posted by whalepirot

Ha! I was talking to a Tampa dealer about, I think, the Cherokee Elite you bought!


I installed the Roadmaster baseplate in a couple hours. The instructions are excellent as is their phone support. I'd called 'cause I couldn't pull the fascia off, for fear of breaking a tab or something. It seemed there was one more bolt holding it on, and the inset pic is sub-optimal. Well, that newish part is flexible and strong, so when I pulled hard enough, vertically and away from the Jeep, presto! BTW, the 'hidden' bolt, holding the fascia to the fender is NOT body color and sits behind and inside of the topmost inner wheelwell fastener; the one (of three) I'd first removed. (The other two were body colored; not part of this install.)


Next week, I'll install the R-master wiring harness to get tow lights.

Good thing we got it when we did or it might be sitting in your driveway now! I am using the Blue Ox Base Plate and will install it next weekend. I have watched the etrailer video several times now and think I am ready but appreciate the heads up on the bolt. I will also be installing the Roadmaster wiring harness for the tow lights and have watched that video as well.

Will post my results when done.

FLSteve

[whalepirot]

Originally Posted by FLSteve

Good thing we got it when we did or it might be sitting in your driveway now!

No wonder they wouldn't negotiate more!

Actually this 'stripper' TH is perfect. I'm not big on sunroofs and after two problematic 7'ers (BMW Li) and a Lemon-Lawed 2015 Subaru Outback 3.2, I love simplicity more than ever. Also, we both like the rather rare blue more each day.

One note on selecting neutral: I read the OM procedure a few times, and after two failed attempts (5s hold), discovered that the 'N' button gets pushed until the flashing ceases; light steady.

Be advised,k those plastic push-pins holding the underhood cover in place, have a center pin that gets raised, allowing the forked pin's body to exit easily.
Again, you have to pull HARD to detach the fascia.

[jgbram]

We bought a used 2015 Cherokee Trailhawk last year. We installed the wiring harness ($900 installed) but have never had a problem with a wobble. Tow with a 2018 Thor Miramar, can hardly feel it behind me. My wife wanted a automatic, and the Cherokee is one of the lightest, very easy to drive and it’s off road rated.

[Peter M]

Originally Posted by FLSteve

Good thing we got it when we did or it might be sitting in your driveway now! I am using the Blue Ox Base Plate and will install it next weekend. I have watched the etrailer video several times now and think I am ready but appreciate the heads up on the bolt. I will also be installing the Roadmaster wiring harness for the tow lights and have watched that video as well.

Will post my results when done.

FLSteve

FLSteve why not go with the tow ready diode system ? Looks like a cleaner install with one diode system per side. Can't beat the price $55.

https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-...-tr118821.aspx

[FLSteve]

Originally Posted by Peter M

FLSteve why not go with the tow ready diode system ? Looks like a cleaner install with one diode system per side. Can't beat the price $55.

https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-...-tr118821.aspx

I do remember seeing that one and even had it in my order basket at one time. But for some reason ... can't even remember why now ... I went with the Roadmaster. I already have it so will just proceed with it. Yours does look simpler in hindsight.

FLSteve

[whalepirot]

Originally Posted by FLSteve

went with the Roadmaster. I already have it so will just proceed with it.

Operational test success, post install!! Kudos to eTrailer for the excellent video, package and CS. Our '19 Trailhawk's rear lights operate precisely as required/desired.

Thoughts to add:
1) I used various shrink tubing sizes to better seal the rubber cone backside on the 6-pin plug. All wires are encased in black stretch mesh for about 14"; the ends shrink tubed.
2) Despite no current requirement for coach-sourced power to the toad (battery charger), I ran a wire. It's clipped, coiled and secured beneath the underhood plastic cover 'cause it's easy to do it now.
3) Routing the 'cross wires' behind the rear bumper cover (our T-hawk has no hitch) was eased by simply removing 4 10mm bolts holding the lower edge of it to the Jeep. That allows plenty of flex to get them up, away and secured.
4) The wire colors in the video are accurate. I hesitated cutting any wire on the new Jeep. The smallish Jeep wires get roughy 1/4" stripped, so the copper strands can be "doubled" back on themseves, more snug inside the kit-supplied blue crimp connectors.
5) the other doubling mentioned in the video, refers to TWO brown wires (one crosses to the opposite side's tail light). The yellow, versus blue crimp is larger for that extra thickness.
6) use a quality crimping/stripping tool, being careful not to slice off any wire strands (resulting in a smaller wire).
7) unplugging the taillights is easy once a wee puzzle is solved: sliding the red lock piece allows depressing the black lock portion (red piece keeps it up and locked).
8) When installing the RM baseplate pieces I left the plastic lower grille untrimmed. The RM 7-6 wire kit employs a larger socket than the RM baseplate kit is designed for. The wire kit bracket served as a cutout template for the grille; the grille's upper rim needed about 1" of trimming to allow full opening of the hinged socket cover; easy via small air saw. I also blackened the shiny attach screws from the kit.
9) tis easier to reach the underbody areas for routing the 4-wire from front to rear by merely jacking up the Jeep's side about an inch. A lift is not required, but I prefer sliding on cardboard versus concrete.

I hope this further eases others' installations.

[Peter M]

Thanks for the added detailed installation instructions.

[FLSteve]

Originally Posted by whalepirot

Operational test success, post install!! Kudos to eTrailer for the excellent video, package and CS. Our '19 Trailhawk's rear lights operate precisely as required/desired.

Thoughts to add:
1) I used various shrink tubing sizes to better seal the rubber cone backside on the 6-pin plug. All wires are encased in black stretch mesh for about 14"; the ends shrink tubed.
2) Despite no current requirement for coach-sourced power to the toad (battery charger), I ran a wire. It's clipped, coiled and secured beneath the underhood plastic cover 'cause it's easy to do it now.
3) Routing the 'cross wires' behind the rear bumper cover (our T-hawk has no hitch) was eased by simply removing 4 10mm bolts holding the lower edge of it to the Jeep. That allows plenty of flex to get them up, away and secured.
4) The wire colors in the video are accurate. I hesitated cutting any wire on the new Jeep. The smallish Jeep wires get roughy 1/4" stripped, so the copper strands can be "doubled" back on themseves, more snug inside the kit-supplied blue crimp connectors.
5) the other doubling mentioned in the video, refers to TWO brown wires (one crosses to the opposite side's tail light). The yellow, versus blue crimp is larger for that extra thickness.
6) use a quality crimping/stripping tool, being careful not to slice off any wire strands (resulting in a smaller wire).
7) unplugging the taillights is easy once a wee puzzle is solved: sliding the red lock piece allows depressing the black lock portion (red piece keeps it up and locked).
8) When installing the RM baseplate pieces I left the plastic lower grille untrimmed. The RM 7-6 wire kit employs a larger socket than the RM baseplate kit is designed for. The wire kit bracket served as a cutout template for the grille; the grille's upper rim needed about 1" of trimming to allow full opening of the hinged socket cover; easy via small air saw. I also blackened the shiny attach screws from the kit.
9) tis easier to reach the underbody areas for routing the 4-wire from front to rear by merely jacking up the Jeep's side about an inch. A lift is not required, but I prefer sliding on cardboard versus concrete.

I hope this further eases others' installations.

whalepirot … perfect timing as I plan to install mine this weekend. I will print this out so I can refer to it. Thanks for posting this.

FLSteve

[FLSteve]

So this means you ran it from the front plug on the Trailhawk to the back of the Trailhawk or just into the engine compartment?

FLSteve

2) Despite no current requirement for coach-sourced power to the toad (battery charger), I ran a wire. It's clipped, coiled and secured beneath the underhood plastic cover 'cause it's easy to do it now.

[whalepirot]

Originally Posted by FLSteve

you ran it from the front plug on the Trailhawk to the back of the Trailhawk or just into the engine compartment?

Just a 12g wire to the engine compartment with no targetted use, yet. That's the wire size eTrailer said is in the coiled connector.

[FLSteve]

Was able to get my installation done last weekend. Did the Blue Ox base plate on Saturday and finished up with the Roadmaster lighting harness on Sunday. I do miss the look of the red tow hooks but can't have it all. (Am thinking about maybe painting the tow hooks red but that's probably a bad idea). I did watch the videos for both items on eTrailer.com several times and between them and the instructions, did not run into any issues … just took longer than I thought it would. I did not use the Blue Ox supplied bracket to install the wiring connector and break-away switch as my Trailhawk has some little round sensors at each side of the grill … I think the ones that let you know when you get too close to a wall. Pictures show how I wound up doing it. Did a short test pull and all seems to be fine.

I use a BrakeBuddy unit as we tow both our vehicles and just change it back and forth … and I did not install a 12V charger as that has never been an issue with any vehicles we towed.

Things look a little scary after you pull off the front end panel. My non-RV friends still can't believe I would do that to a brand new vehicle!

FLSteve

[Isaac-1]

Thanks for posting this, I am about to install a baseplate, and lighting kit on our 2017 Jeep Cherokee Overland edition, one thing I was surprised to note in your photos is that our lane departure lens is on the drivers side of center, and yours in on the passenger side.

[Ken C]

Originally Posted by FLSteve

Was able to get my installation done last weekend. Did the Blue Ox base plate on Saturday and finished up with the Roadmaster lighting harness on Sunday. I do miss the look of the red tow hooks but can't have it all. (Am thinking about maybe painting the tow hooks red but that's probably a bad idea). I did watch the videos for both items on eTrailer.com several times and between them and the instructions, did not run into any issues … just took longer than I thought it would. I did not use the Blue Ox supplied bracket to install the wiring connector and break-away switch as my Trailhawk has some little round sensors at each side of the grill … I think the ones that let you know when you get too close to a wall. Pictures show how I wound up doing it. Did a short test pull and all seems to be fine.

I use a BrakeBuddy unit as we tow both our vehicles and just change it back and forth … and I did not install a 12V charger as that has never been an issue with any vehicles we towed.

Things look a little scary after you pull off the front end panel. My non-RV friends still can't believe I would do that to a brand new vehicle!

FLSteve

Ours is on the drivers side as well

[FLSteve]

If you are talking about the big round "eyeball/camera lens" looking thing … I think that is the adaptive cruise control sensor?? When I was doing my pre-purchase research … I did see some pictures of units with it in the middle as well. Maybe it moves around based on what type of Cherokee model you go with??

FLSteve