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Old 03-07-2014, 02:11 PM   #15
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OMG Why are we making this so complicated? I've been towing a car behind me for years and only had the batt go dead once because the Brake Buddie went nuts and the compressor kept running. As far as tail lights I just install seperate bulbs inside the taillights with wires just like a trailer. That eliminated diodes ??? All the stuff you guys are talking about gave me a headake, ya got to be an electrical engineer. Use some good old GI enginuity. Just my thoughts. Thanks
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Old 03-07-2014, 02:21 PM   #16
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OMG Why are we making this so complicated? I've been towing a car behind me for years and only had the batt go dead once because the Brake Buddie went nuts and the compressor kept running. As far as tail lights I just install seperate bulbs inside the taillights with wires just like a trailer. That eliminated diodes ??? All the stuff you guys are talking about gave me a headake, ya got to be an electrical engineer. Use some good old GI enginuity. Just my thoughts. Thanks
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Old 03-07-2014, 03:42 PM   #17
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OMG Why are we making this so complicated? I've been towing a car behind me for years and only had the batt go dead once because the Brake Buddie went nuts and the compressor kept running. As far as tail lights I just install seperate bulbs inside the taillights with wires just like a trailer. That eliminated diodes ??? All the stuff you guys are talking about gave me a headake, ya got to be an electrical engineer. Use some good old GI enginuity. Just my thoughts. Thanks
Some of us are doing this because not all cars can be towed without draining their batteries. With my 2014 Honda CR-V, Honda recommends removing a fuse if the vehicle is going to be towed for more than 8 hours or left connected overnight. I could get down under the dash and squint at the fuse panel with its micro fuses trying to pull one out and re-insert it each time we towed. Or I could wire a "fuse switch" but the micro fuse "port" makes that a bit tight, also. So I wired a charging line because it was easier than the alternatives.

I think this problem is going to get worse since more and more new cars seem to have electronics that are never fully "OFF". For example, with the key in the ACC position for towing my Honda has its Bluetooth system ON whether or not I want it and I sure don't want to disable it and have to re-pair my phone when I want to use it the next time. Similarly, the iPod plugged into the USB port is also powered, etc, etc, and who knows what else is on? IMHO its easier to provide power to the toad than to worry about turning everything off.
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Old 03-07-2014, 08:57 PM   #18
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Using a Toad charge

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To me that seems perfect because it means there's pretty much no way for the toad to drain the MH batteries. This is exactly how the Toad Charge system is designed. If the toad is kept connected overnight there's little chance that leaving something on in it will result in a discharged MH battery.
Yes, that would be the good point, the bad point is that the voltage (and current) delivered is just enough to keep it from being totally discharged. Putting the toad to bed every night if you don't drive it would be good for the battery health (shutting off the brake buddy, lights, etc.) Or a half hour trip to the local DQ or something to top it up.
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:33 AM   #19
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Just had an Invisibrake installed on a 2003 Jeep Liberty. It comes with a moniter Led/Buzzer which needs to run to front. It has a toad charge wire hooked up, but my question is there a spare wire in the harness 7-wire, to splice into to feed the signal to the front if the coach. Also does anyone know where it could be found on a 2003 40' Dutchstar in the dash area. I'm thinking a tone tracer would be a good investment about now! The installer thought the blue wire was in-used.
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:43 AM   #20
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If you never pull a trailer with electric brakes, there should be a blue wire that runs from the 5:00 position on your plug to under your dash for electric brake control. If you do pull trailer occasionally, just put a DPST switch inline.
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