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Old 11-16-2008, 05:43 AM   #1
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I am having trouble keeping my TOAD (Honda CRV, 2007) battery charged while towing the vehicle. In an effort to resolve this, I installed a DC - DC battery charger that runs off of the coach electrical connection, but this is not doing the job.

My thoughts are to connect the "Battery" or 12v cable in the connection harness to my TOAD battery, but I do not want to do it directly. I am thinking of using a Diode and a fuse in series.

My questions are:

1. If I use the Diode and fuse, what size/capacity/amps should I use?

2. Is there some other way I should be considering doing this?

Any help/experience in this regard would be great.

Thank you
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Old 11-16-2008, 05:43 AM   #2
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I am having trouble keeping my TOAD (Honda CRV, 2007) battery charged while towing the vehicle. In an effort to resolve this, I installed a DC - DC battery charger that runs off of the coach electrical connection, but this is not doing the job.

My thoughts are to connect the "Battery" or 12v cable in the connection harness to my TOAD battery, but I do not want to do it directly. I am thinking of using a Diode and a fuse in series.

My questions are:

1. If I use the Diode and fuse, what size/capacity/amps should I use?

2. Is there some other way I should be considering doing this?

Any help/experience in this regard would be great.

Thank you
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Old 11-16-2008, 06:45 AM   #3
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They make a special battery isolator for doing that. It is a large current handling diode in a aluminum heatsink. They are available at any RV supply store. A 30 amp fuse is good enough.

For my education.....why is the Honda battery running down? Do you have to tow with the ignition switch in the first on position? If so why?
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Old 11-16-2008, 07:26 AM   #4
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Yes, the ignition switch must be turned to the first position to unlock the steering. In this position, it turns on the radio system. They recommend pulling the radio fuse, but on this honda it is very hard to get to, so putting it in and out is a real PITA. Also, my breaking system, SMI Airforce 1, also draws from the battery.

So, the best overall solution to my problem is to make sure my coach feeds power to the TOAD.

I have found a "better" DC-DC battery charger from LSL products called the "Toad-Charge". This appears to provide sufficient amps, compared to the current unit I have, so I am going to try it out.

Anybody have experience with it?

Thanks
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Old 11-16-2008, 12:50 PM   #5
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Hopefully others towing the CRV will offer suggestions. I'm towing a Jeep Liberty and its key remains in the off, but not locked, position.

However, I did check with LSL at one time and they cautioned that the ground wire in the wiring harness may not be large enough to carry all the current being supplied to the toad. You have several supply wires for turn signal, brake light, etc., but only one ground wire.

I've got an SMI AF1 and it does not draw any current from the toad battery. All power is supplied through its electrical harness to the coach. On my setup, the toad battery does supply power to the toad brake lights and the toad brake light indicator in the coach when the toad brake pedal is "depressed" by the SMI air cylinder.
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Old 11-16-2008, 02:08 PM   #6
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Hi Zbugsii,
Go here to see the product I installed. It is also the product, I think, you refered to in your post. It is an easy install. It works as advertised. I would make the same purchase again.
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Old 11-17-2008, 03:46 AM   #7
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I also installed a Toad-Charge unit and am well pleased with it. The Ground wire from the Alpine to the Edge is 10 gage and I've not had any issues when powering the Even Brake from the Edge battery and dedicated lighting circuits.
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Old 11-17-2008, 11:28 AM   #8
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I have used the Toad Charge for over two years. It is simple to install and use. And, it works very well.
It will charge the battery only when needed. I have left it hooked up for several days when traveling without problem. Once the car battery is charged, it either maintains the charge or is idle.
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:55 AM   #9
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I guess I am confused. We have towed our 07 CRV w/NAV for 10K miles or so and never had a problem with battery discharge. Use a Brake Buddy and do not pull the fuse. I make sure the radio/ac are off and that the GPS screen is off before starting. I do start the car when we stop for lunch and before starting again I go through the transmission sequence. Our travel days are relatively short - 7 hours or so. I have measured battery voltage at 4 hours and 6 hours and the charge was OK - I don't remember the exact numbers, but charge was high enough to start the engine with no sweat. I realize it is probably safer and easy to install a charge wire, but I wonder if maybe you do not have another problem causing a quicker battery drain.
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Old 11-19-2008, 11:04 AM   #10
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Hi jzick,
My towing worked well for many years without the device mentioned in my post. Then it happened. I knew something was different by the feeling I got when using the service brake on the coach. I had no toad brakes! When we got to the CG, I could not start the toad. The battery was dead. To this day, I have no idea why the battery was dead. I charged the battery and all went well for the rest of the camping season. During this time the lack of toad brakes due to the battery being dead was always in the back of my mind. Another thread, on iRV2, lead me to the product in my post. I continue to have no breaking or battery problems, with the same battery. I feel fortunate, the problem happened in flat Florida, not in the Rocky Mountains.

I guess the bottom line is the lack of toad brakes really scared me. Since batteries can be "difficult and mysterious" when they work or don't work, I feel much better knowing the battery is being given "no excuse" not to work.
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Old 11-23-2008, 01:29 PM   #11
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I use the Toad-Charge for both our CRVs...probably more preventive than actually needed, but it does the job nicely
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Old 11-23-2008, 04:37 PM   #12
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Concur. I installed the Toad-Charge and just towed my CRV 7000 miles over 2 months with a brake buddy and never had a battery problem.

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Old 11-23-2008, 05:13 PM   #13
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Why not power Air Force One from the coach? That's what I've done with my SMI 4 wire system, and I do not remove any fuses. Start the CR-V, run through the gears, put in neutral, turn key one click back to ACC.

You could also wire in a switch to "turn" the fuse on and off.
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Old 11-24-2008, 11:24 AM   #14
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MikeT:
Why not power Air Force One from the coach? That's what I've done with my SMI 4 wire system, and I do not remove any fuses. Start the CR-V, run through the gears, put in neutral, turn key one click back to ACC. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The AFO uses so little power it's not worth trying to run power from the coach. The brake system itself uses NO power, it's all air powered. If you have the indicator lights connected, they use a little power (very little - LED lights). The only time there's any significant power use is if the breakaway system is activated, and that's for a very short time.

joe
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