Community Forums

ChasL · 03-06-2017, 06:41 PM

What braking system do use on your Chevrolet spark? Any problems installing and any recommendations. Thanks in advance.

walt2137 · 03-07-2017, 06:14 PM

I towed a 2014 Spark for about a year and used a Roadmaster Brakemaster it was a easy install, I ran the 1/4 air line through the wire bundle boot by the steering wheel by making a hole in the rubber boot and using monkey snot or electric wire lube to fish it through for the air line for the Brakemaster and I used a Roadmaster base plate

mikelcan · 03-08-2017, 10:13 AM

I have not installed anything yet as I am still waiting on two parts to come in. When I purchased my RV it had the brakemaster components already installed on the RV. So I purchased brakemaster to put in my Spark. I am waiting on the seat bracket for the brakemaster as well as the light connection kit to connect my brake lights, turn signals, etc.

I went with the demco baseplate and tow bar along with the demco light connector. I am hoping everything will be in by the 18th and I can install that weekend.

Mike

walt2137 · 03-08-2017, 11:56 AM

Mike this car was made by Daewoo in South Korea (owned by GM) for Chevy and the tail light wires are extreamly small and hard to work with. I didn't know Demco made a bracket for the Spark , I know you are probably aware of this but just a reminder be sure to use thread loc. I really like Demco's 10,500 tow bar but not their brackets. I made my Brakemaster seat bracket it's just a straight piece of 1/4 X ? Metal and I have a extra Brakemaster and breakaway in my shop.

ChasL · 03-10-2017, 10:27 AM

Installed Roadmaster EZ5 Base plate & ready Brute Elite tow Bar & Brake System. Very Easy to install. E-trailer has very good video on how to install Base plate on 2017 Spark. Have only Test towed Spark and it seems OK. I am using Wireless Stop/Turn Lights.

mikelcan · 03-14-2017, 12:35 PM

Demco called me and they no longer make the plug type light connector that does not need any splicing for the Spark. So I had to order the diode kit that requires splicing. Even if it does not come in by the weekend I will probably do the baseplate install along with running all the brake components this weekend and tackle the lights when they come in. Hoping to do a test run in April for a weekend then a week long trip in May

Mike

ChasL · 03-14-2017, 06:47 PM

There is a good video on how to install Turn/stop lights on e-trailer. I have used this method on a Ranger Pick up with very good results and easy to do. I may also use the installation on my spark if the wireless lights do not work to my satisfaction, At present they work great. I mounted inside on back package tray using 4 inch square steel plates bolted on each side. The magnets are very strong but lights can be removed easily. The wireless lights run $100 on Amazon 150 most other places.
Blazer C6304 LED Wireless towing lights.

mikelcan · 03-22-2017, 05:25 PM

I installed the baseplate and most of the brakemaster system this last weekend. Probably have about 8 hours of actual work and a few hours of scratching my head on what I was going to do. The baseplate itself was relatively easy following the instructions from Demco. There was one picture on where to cut an air deflector that was not clear (figured out after that part of the picture was an inset picture) but holding up the baseplate to the car clarified where to cut. Running the air tube and wire for the brakemaster took longer than expected and was part of the head scratching as there is not a lot of room and there are brake / clutch lines on the firewall where I would have liked to drilled the hole. Finally found a location that worked for me. The seat adapter was indeed a straight bar that if I would have known before ordering I would have bought one for $5 from a hardware store instead of $50. That also took longer than I would have expected as the instructions stated to pass the bolt from the bottom and have the nut on top in the seat channel. That prevented the seat from coming all the way forward where my wife needs it to drive. So I had to put the bolt in from the top and that took some persuasion as it was too tall to clear the seat adjustment bar. But finally got it in. All that is left is to connect the wire that feeds the led on the RV dash to let you know when the pedal is pressed. What I found is that my model does not have an actual brake light switch but a pedal position sensor that gives feedback to computer. I imagine it is part of the anti rollback feature that keeps the brake applied for a bit when taking off on hills. I either need to add a separate switch, forgo the indicator light or perhaps tap into the brake lights themselves.

I am going to tackle that in two weeks when I get the next chance to work on it and install the diode kit for tail lights.

Mike

walt2137 · 03-22-2017, 05:43 PM

Mike I posted the info about the seat bracket being a straight piece of metal on 3/8 did you not see it?

ChasL · 03-22-2017, 07:31 PM

I have a Brake Buddy Classic Alert System (PN Hopkins 39302) from my old defective Brake Buddy. I plan to modify to use on my Spark. A dual 4MM Banana Jack binding post for speakers will fit the transmitter unit perfect. I intend to pick up 12vdc from Brake light or Third brake light. I have tested this off Vehicle by applying 12 volts to transmitter and Receiver in Cigar Lighter in MH a distance of 45 ft and it worked. I am hoping I can use the 3rd Brake light as a 12vdc source as this will allow me to attach transmitter to back package tray or headrest with Velcro or ?. The speaker terms are Conwork Dual 4MM Banana Jacks Binding Post for speaker amplifier terminals. Brake Buddy Classic Alert System PN Hopkins 39302 . These are available on Amazon. The current draw for transmitter should be no problem as its all solid state.

mikelcan · 03-22-2017, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by walt2137

Mike I posted the info about the seat bracket being a straight piece of metal on 3/8 did you not see it?

I did see your post after I had already ordered the part and was still waiting on delivery. The information on the wires was also correct as the wires on the brake position switch was tiny compared to what I was expecting.

Thanks

Mike

ChasL · 03-23-2017, 08:33 PM

Walt2137. You are so right about the Light wires being small on Brake/Tail lights. It is same on 3rd Brake light. I think I will just do without Brake light indicator for time being. Thanks to all who posted.
C. Wood

walt2137 · 03-24-2017, 05:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikelcan

I installed the baseplate and most of the brakemaster system this last weekend. Probably have about 8 hours of actual work and a few hours of scratching my head on what I was going to do. The baseplate itself was relatively easy following the instructions from Demco. There was one picture on where to cut an air deflector that was not clear (figured out after that part of the picture was an inset picture) but holding up the baseplate to the car clarified where to cut. Running the air tube and wire for the brakemaster took longer than expected and was part of the head scratching as there is not a lot of room and there are brake / clutch lines on the firewall where I would have liked to drilled the hole. Finally found a location that worked for me. The seat adapter was indeed a straight bar that if I would have known before ordering I would have bought one for $5 from a hardware store instead of $50. That also took longer than I would have expected as the instructions stated to pass the bolt from the bottom and have the nut on top in the seat channel. That prevented the seat from coming all the way forward where my wife needs it to drive. So I had to put the bolt in from the top and that took some persuasion as it was too tall to clear the seat adjustment bar. But finally got it in. All that is left is to connect the wire that feeds the led on the RV dash to let you know when the pedal is pressed. What I found is that my model does not have an actual brake light switch but a pedal position sensor that gives feedback to computer. I imagine it is part of the anti rollback feature that keeps the brake applied for a bit when taking off on hills. I either need to add a separate switch, forgo the indicator light or perhaps tap into the brake lights themselves.

I am going to tackle that in two weeks when I get the next chance to work on it and install the diode kit for tail lights.

Mike

Mike you can use low pressure 12v make switch and I think it would have to be in the 20# to 30# range and hook it into the Brakemaster air line to activate the dash light, before I take off in the Kia I pump the coach brakes 3 or 4 times to deplete the vacuum in the brake chamber and load the breakaway air tank.