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Old 07-04-2018, 08:23 AM   #1
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Chevy Colorado - Roadmaster Battery Disconnect Installation

I guess I have issues with drilling a new truck so I am trying to figure out a way to install my Roadmaster Battery Disconnect solenoid under the hood without drilling my inner fender. Nothing says rust in the northeast like exposed sheet metal.

I made an aluminum bracket to fit over the ground stud so I can mount the solenoid and wanted to get some feedback. It seems hold it well based on my initial fitment check and the cable runs are about perfect so I don't need to cut my battery cover either like they do in the etrailer.com video of the same installation. My only concern is because it is a single stud the bracket may rotate with vibration but I think once the heavy cables are tie wrapped in place that may be OK. Worst case is to move it later.

Am I missing something?



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Old 07-04-2018, 09:11 AM   #2
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I don't see any problem. Even if it rotated some the terminals are not going to touch any metal.
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Old 07-04-2018, 10:09 AM   #3
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That's a great looking solution!
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Old 07-04-2018, 10:41 AM   #4
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That looks great and should work just fine.

Not owning a newer truck I have to assume the grounding stud is where you would hook up the negative lead on jumper cables or a battery charger? I don't see a ground cable going to the stud.

I love the look of the newer Colorado/Canyons. That was my #1 pick for a toad but they are a bit out of my budget. I will be excited to see and hear how your set up works and how your Kountry Star pulls it around. I bet it will be nice.
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Old 07-04-2018, 10:43 AM   #5
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Thanks.

Not sure what that stud if for, it is marked as a ground.

One other interesting thing I found, I crawled under the dash really far and found an extra rubber nipple on the main electrical cable seal. I suspect it is for the factory to run an option that my truck doesn't have but my plan is to run my wires through it once I open it up. Have a few questions for RVI Brake tomorrow first.
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Old 07-05-2018, 12:58 PM   #6
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Sounds like you're making good progress. Have you got around to wire the tail lights yet?
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Old 07-05-2018, 07:32 PM   #7
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Chevy Colorado - Roadmaster Battery Disconnect Installation

Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-nickie View Post
Sounds like you're making good progress. Have you got around to wire the tail lights yet?


I ran the four conductor wire today. Etrailer ran it part way down inside the frame and then for some reason brought it out near the fuel tank and snaked it outside the rest of the way. I ran it inside in small sections at a time (there is a few tricky sections) and it is fully enclosed inside the frame. Goes into the frame right near the radiator and comes out right where the truck wiring is routed so I will just follow GMís wiring into the lights. Didnít even have to lift the truck, just went under and did it. Nice having that ground clearance.

Also installed the RVI Brake battery charger module today by attaching to a post that holds the large plug in front of the battery. Put some foam on it and tie wrapped it in place. Seems to be nice and snug.

Need to talk to Roadmaster tomorrow to find out the wire gauge they us in their 7 pin to 6 pin cable. I plan to use the same gauge from the ground terminal of the 6 pin to the negative battery post.

Trying to get a lot of the preliminary wiring, etc. done so when I pull the nose for the base plate installation things will go quicker, at least thatís the theory.
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Old 07-05-2018, 07:45 PM   #8
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Exactly. I had all the wires run and tied up under the front bumper before I started pulling the grill off to install the baseplate also.
Way to think ahead and plan things out. Thumbs up

But I'm wondering why you need to run a wire from the 6-pin to the battery ground?
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Old 07-06-2018, 06:21 AM   #9
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Chevy Colorado - Roadmaster Battery Disconnect Installation

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Originally Posted by dan-nickie View Post
Exactly. I had all the wires run and tied up under the front bumper before I started pulling the grill off to install the baseplate also.
Way to think ahead and plan things out. Thumbs up

But I'm wondering why you need to run a wire from the 6-pin to the battery ground?


If you watch the etrailer installation of the diode kit, they run the white ground to the rear of the truck and then use a self tapping screw to ground to the sheet metal. Since I am running a battery charger as well, I am going to use a larger gauge wire and go straight from the ground pin of the six pin to the truck battery ground. This also eliminates another hole punched in my sheet metal.
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Old 07-06-2018, 07:53 AM   #10
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I see. I didn't put a charge line on my battery. I've drove for 4 days straight once without ever unhooking or starting the truck. Battery held up fine FYI.
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Old 07-06-2018, 03:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettenuts View Post
I ran the four conductor wire today. Etrailer ran it part way down inside the frame and then for some reason brought it out near the fuel tank and snaked it outside the rest of the way. I ran it inside in small sections at a time (there is a few tricky sections) and it is fully enclosed inside the frame. Goes into the frame right near the radiator and comes out right where the truck wiring is routed so I will just follow GM’s wiring into the lights. Didn’t even have to lift the truck, just went under and did it. Nice having that ground clearance.

Also installed the RVI Brake battery charger module today by attaching to a post that holds the large plug in front of the battery. Put some foam on it and tie wrapped it in place. Seems to be nice and snug.

Need to talk to Roadmaster tomorrow to find out the wire gauge they us in their 7 pin to 6 pin cable. I plan to use the same gauge from the ground terminal of the 6 pin to the negative battery post.

Trying to get a lot of the preliminary wiring, etc. done so when I pull the nose for the base plate installation things will go quicker, at least that’s the theory.

I checked a few yrs ago and at the time Roadmaster was the only one that had one #12 wire and the rest was #14 , i used the #12 for my charge line from coach chassis battery to toad battery (charge wire from chassis battery was #10)

First Class set up on your battery disconnect.
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Old 07-06-2018, 05:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettenuts View Post
I guess I have issues with drilling a new truck so I am trying to figure out a way to install my Roadmaster Battery Disconnect solenoid under the hood without drilling my inner fender. Nothing says rust in the northeast like exposed sheet metal.



I made an aluminum bracket to fit over the ground stud so I can mount the solenoid and wanted to get some feedback. It seems hold it well based on my initial fitment check and the cable runs are about perfect so I don't need to cut my battery cover either like they do in the etrailer.com video of the same installation. My only concern is because it is a single stud the bracket may rotate with vibration but I think once the heavy cables are tie wrapped in place that may be OK. Worst case is to move it later.



Am I missing something?









The ground lug is the connection for your negative cable if you have to use jumper cables. It is not advised on modern vehicles to use the negative post/connection on the battery.

I would find another location, maybe just below where it is now do you have access to the lug.

There are other places to achieve a ground but the lug is there for a reason.

You're doing a great job. I wish you had a few more photos. I'm still planning on the Colorado a toad and following your progress.
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Old 07-06-2018, 06:04 PM   #13
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Just in case anyone needs the information, the Roadmaster 7 pin to 6 pin cable uses 16 gauge wires for all but the ground and 12v connections. These are 14 gauge wire.
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Old 07-07-2018, 07:19 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScopeGuard View Post
The ground lug is the connection for your negative cable if you have to use jumper cables. It is not advised on modern vehicles to use the negative post/connection on the battery.

I would find another location, maybe just below where it is now do you have access to the lug.

There are other places to achieve a ground but the lug is there for a reason.

You're doing a great job. I wish you had a few more photos. I'm still planning on the Colorado a toad and following your progress.
Thanks for the information on jumping. Honestly haven't read that section of the owners manual.

The bracket can be removed very quickly if need be for jumping or you might be able to clamp directly to the bracket since the solenoid requires grounding as well.

I actually found a very similar bracket made from stainless that I have ordered. Hopefully it will work because it should provide better fatigue life than aluminum. Will provide more information if it fits correctly.

The instructions also state to mount the solenoid in a position out of direct road spray. Not sure if that means keep it "dry" or "not out in the open". Seems pretty well protected behind the radiator frame.

I will try to take more photos as it moves forward, still waiting on a few parts I ordered.
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