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Old 09-08-2016, 05:29 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Joe45 View Post
So would it be possible for the Cruise America 19 to pull my FJ on a trailer?
Maybe a stupid question but the trailer would be aluminum at about 1300lbs while the FJ approaches 5000lbs.

19' Cruise America
Chassis E350
Engine Type Triton
Engine Size 5.4 L V-8
Using the links I provided in my earlier post, you can calculate a number of possible GCWR - GVWR values for the 2011 Ford E-series 350 SuperDuty chassis. You should also run the numbers for the 2010 chassis. I think you'll find that none of the V8 cutaway chassis have enough GCWR to meet your expectations.

None of these calculations are a substitute for the actual values from the stickers off the coaches themselves. In particular, you don't know the coach manufacturer's Unloaded Vehicle Weights, Gross Vehicle Weights or Gross Vehicle Weight Ratings.

There is (still) the open question of whether the Cruise America frame is strong enough to accept a higher-capacity trailer hitch.

I don't want to rain on your parade, but in my opinion you'd be better served looking at non-rental coaches with published tow ratings of 7,500 pounds or more.

2008 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD (Ford F-53 chassis)
2009 Honda Fit Sport
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Old 09-08-2016, 06:35 AM   #16
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Like I said, a couple of years ago I drove a loaded to the gills Uhaul 10' truck with two adults and an 80lb dog, towing a Uhaul car trailer that weighs 2,210 lbs with a '97 Jeep wrangler that weighed about 3,073 lbs not counting the heavy bull bar, rear bumper, tire/jerry can rack and full roof rack, or that it was also loaded up. The truck did it fine and someone suggested that although it has a V8 the Uhaul is much lighter than the 28' class c with a V10 and much longer frame/chassis.
The engine is only a piece of the equation, in the manufacturer calculating the maximum gross combined rating. That box truck you rented probably also had gigunda brakes/axle/tires.

Engine, transmission, brakes, shocks, rims, tires, airbags (if diesel), axles, frame.....all have individual maximum ratings. The engine you reference might be strong enough, but if the brakes or transmission aren't rated high enough, they will limit the individual axle rating of the vehicle, as well as the GCVWR.

I had an upgrade done to my coach, to increase the rear axle rating and GCVWR. Of all of the components, they had to upgrade my rear brake canisters and shocks, to increase the axle rating by 1K lbs. All of the other individual components already had an individual rating over my target rating, so they didn't need to be upgraded.

As mentioned before, you are wanting to pull a heavy trailer/load You're going to need a tow vehicle set up with enough excess capacity to pull/stop probably 7500 to 10000, and the hitch strength is just a piece of that.

DaveB, Raleigh, NC
2015 Tiffin RED 33AA, w/Honda CRV
VMSpc, Magnum BMK/ARC50
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Old 09-09-2016, 01:05 PM   #17
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So you think a 300 plus CI motor is equal to a 400 plus CI motor. Go with the V10 and the Aluminum trailer with a good welded hitch. Make sure the trailer has bakes.

2004 Clss C 31' Winnebgo
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Old 09-09-2016, 11:28 PM   #18
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Thanks again!
I will look into those requirements.
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Old 09-13-2016, 11:37 AM   #19
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Any towing scenario is 'possible', with enough money thrown at it.
Your first and foremost question/concern should be...."is this situation safe?" Not only for you, and your family members/pets, etc....but also the other motorists you share the roads with. We see plenty of scenarios in our travels where 'common sense and safety' were not included in the thought process. One must be ever mindful of liability issues these days, considering our increasingly litigious society.
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Old 09-13-2016, 10:39 PM   #20
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I've been thinking about all the points people have made here and it seems a rig to tow the FJC is not practical right now. A Super C could do it, but that's beyond my budget for now.

My dilemma is I will be going to college for a year in California and the rent is just exorbitant. Also, I don't want to get into a lease.
So I am thinking now of a small Class C (around 22 feet) or a Class B/+ (used of course) to live in during that time. I have also considered a small travel trailer to tow with the FJC, but that seems it may be a big hassle to park and try staying under the radar in a city.
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Old 09-16-2016, 10:52 PM   #21
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You can also look at older DP or super C units. Many would tow your setup just fine. If it is just you there are a lot of options. Many can be had for a very low cost.
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Old 09-17-2016, 06:29 AM   #22
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Personally I would never buy a rental unit. They are usually underbuilt. In your case they never had a hitch so no need for a beefy frame extension. I see where you have concluded that towing your setup is not a good idea. If you ever get the urge crawl under the back of the unit and look at the frame. You might be shocked.
2008 Dynasty 42' Diamond IV
2009 Silverado Toad
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Old 09-17-2016, 07:24 AM   #23
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I own a former CA rental Majestic 23A. It has a Ford 5.4L V8, has a 5K towing capacity and has a hitch on the back (I'm not certain of the rating). I tow a 4,300 LB Chevy Captiva and it pulls it with no issues. However, for a larger vehicle, I would recommend one of the larger V10 models. And for buying a rental, I have had my 2006 23A for about 4 years now. No major issues. This is one of the least expensive ways to get into RVing.

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class c, tow, towing

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