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Old 05-14-2015, 12:48 AM   #169
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Too much computer control for me and I've heard that there may already be a bunch of recalls. I have a 2008 GMC Arcadia and I originally purchased it for the wife and as a toad. When I found out I had to disconnect the battery in order to tow it I decided to keep towing the Saturn at the time. If someone is looking for a mid size pickup to tow, the old style 2004-12 Colorado/Canyon 4X4 Z71 or Z85, are still found used. It took me 6 months to find what I wanted. They don't have all the latest and greatest and I think GM treated that line like the red headed step child compared to the Sierra/Silverado (had 3 of them and loved those trucks) but, they are simplistic and tow quite well and will seat 4 adults comfortably with reasonable gas mileage for a truck. I was thinking about waiting till the "16"s come out and buy the diesel until my friend, that's a GM sales manager, told me what the sticker price was going to be . Even he said that the new Canyons were over priced. I'll keep my 2010 till something better come out.
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Old 05-14-2015, 11:23 PM   #170
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I just don't see the big issue with towing a 2015 Canyon. I disconnect the positive battery terminal and I have a replacement that supplies power for the breakaway and the dash mounted brake actuated less. Simple process to do.

1. turn ignition on
2. set brake, step on brake
3. shift into neutral
4. turn 4X4 switch to neutral
5. put tranny in park
6. swap positive battery connectors
Not a big deal to me. and I've had zero issues towing several thousand miles.
Am I missing something?

The only recall my truck has had was the reprogram of the air bags. Not aware of any other recalls. Truck has been flawless. No issues at all switch back and forth from toad to truck.

Just my 2 cents, YMMV
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Old 05-15-2015, 07:23 AM   #171
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John, have you considered a battery isolator switch that would let you simply switch the output of the battery to the vehicle or the brake? Might make it really easy.
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Old 05-15-2015, 09:20 AM   #172
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I also break the positive battery cable. I use a Battery Brain from Summit racing. When I am ready to disconnect the battery I push a button on a key fob and the battery disconnects, no opening the hood. My US Gear UTB system has a 12 volt line from the MH. This is connected to the toad battery bypassing the Battery Brain. This line provides power to the UTB for normal operation and the toad battery is connected to the UTB in the event of a breakaway.
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Old 05-15-2015, 11:51 AM   #173
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lets face it, each year these cars get more technical with all the electronics they keep adding.


rodneykramtz-it was nice meeting you both last night.
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Old 05-16-2015, 12:40 PM   #174
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So REDCOLORADO and JOHNINAR - you note you disconnect the positive battery connection - even though this is contrary to the mfr's instructions. Warranty issues aside, since the positive connection is actually quite a few (4 or 5) cables to a buss bar, are you disconnecting that buss bar from the battery? (versus all the cables or some specific ones?)
I'm not adverse to disconnecting the positive side, but if you disconnect them all you stand the chance of having troubles with the transfer case brain being "confused" and not being able to get it out of neutral after reconnecting power, just as if you disconnect the negative. But if you're only disconnecting some specific cables from the buss bar, which ones do you disconnect? (the critical one being the electric PS assist)
Also, not to start a whole new thread, but by not following the mfr's instructions do you have any concerns about having a problem and not having it covered under warranty because you didn't do as they specify?
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Old 05-16-2015, 04:35 PM   #175
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I disconnected the positive battery cable from the positive battery post and connected it to the battery brain and connected the battery brain to the positive battery post. I did not remove or move any of the wires on the bus bar. When I want to disconnect the battery I push a button the key fob and when I want to reconnect I push a button on the key fob. NO OPENING OF THE HOOD REQUIRED. The battery brain has been around for over 10 years.
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Old 05-16-2015, 05:51 PM   #176
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Now I am really confused. Red's solution is a great idea. BUT: whether one disconnects the neg. or the positive the steering is still without power. Newer vehicles have some high tech wiring but normally when you disconnect the negative everything is dead. So why does GM want you disconnect the Neg.?? Red: Your solution does not address the problem some have had with the transfer case not working after the battery is disconnected.
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Old 05-16-2015, 07:12 PM   #177
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Disconnecting the negative cable is a standard safety precaution. You should always disconnect the negative cable first. The scenario is this if you are removing the positive cable first and your wrench contacts the metal of the vehicle sparks and possible fire will occur. If your are disconnecting the negative cable and this happens, nothing will occur. If the negative cable is already disconnected and while disconnecting the positive cable your wrench contacts the metal of the vehicle again nothing will occur.
I have never had a problem with the transfer case failing to shift out of neutral. I fact I am curious of this issue. I tried this morning to duplicate what others have experienced and could not.
I had to stop when my tailgate electric lock arrived. Installed the system it works great, unlock/lock the doors and the tailgate with the truck key fob.
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Old 05-16-2015, 09:40 PM   #178
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Thanks again Bob for the info it was really nice meeting you and your wife
We had a great time at the race.
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Old 05-17-2015, 11:38 AM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Durango382 View Post
So REDCOLORADO and JOHNINAR - you note you disconnect the positive battery connection - even though this is contrary to the mfr's instructions. Warranty issues aside, since the positive connection is actually quite a few (4 or 5) cables to a buss bar, are you disconnecting that buss bar from the battery? (versus all the cables or some specific ones?)
I'm not adverse to disconnecting the positive side, but if you disconnect them all you stand the chance of having troubles with the transfer case brain being "confused" and not being able to get it out of neutral after reconnecting power, just as if you disconnect the negative. But if you're only disconnecting some specific cables from the buss bar, which ones do you disconnect? (the critical one being the electric PS assist)
Also, not to start a whole new thread, but by not following the mfr's instructions do you have any concerns about having a problem and not having it covered under warranty because you didn't do as they specify?
Good article in Edmonds concerning mods voiding warranties. "The saving grace for consumers is the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975. The act states that a dealer must prove that aftermarket equipment caused the need for repairs before it can deny warranty coverage".
Can it be a hassle, YES. Am I concerned, NO.
Thanks for your concern.
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Old 05-17-2015, 05:36 PM   #180
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Just got back from our first trip with the Colorado as a toad. Although certainly not definitive, I'm pleased to report that it towed quite nicely and everything worked just as it was supposed to. No T case issues, no glitches, just disconnect, turn the battery back on, reset the time/date, and off we went.
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Old 05-17-2015, 06:31 PM   #181
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I agree with Redcolorado. You should always remove the neg terminal first. I find changing the positive terminal easiest for me. As long as you break that circuit you won't have any issues. I use a short bungie to keep the positive cable out of trouble. I find that the use of a battery terminal that cost $2 at auto zone suits me just fine.

Not worried at all about the warranty coverage. I'm not doing anything to affect the warranty.

Lots of great posts here.
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Old 05-17-2015, 11:42 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johninar View Post
I just don't see the big issue with towing a 2015 Canyon. I disconnect the positive battery terminal and I have a replacement that supplies power for the breakaway and the dash mounted brake actuated less. Simple process to do.

1. turn ignition on
2. set brake, step on brake
3. shift into neutral
4. turn 4X4 switch to neutral
5. put tranny in park
6. swap positive battery connectors
Not a big deal to me. and I've had zero issues towing several thousand miles.
Am I missing something?

The only recall my truck has had was the reprogram of the air bags. Not aware of any other recalls. Truck has been flawless. No issues at all switch back and forth from toad to truck.

Just my 2 cents, YMMV
You do know GM tells you to turn off the engine while the tranny is in Drive, and then put in Park. Then after 30 seconds, start engine, put in drive, turn off engine, and put in park and disconnect...? This may very well have to do with lubrication issues.
Sure, you may have towed for thousands of miles, but that isn't necessarily going to show long term damage that not following their instructions might cause...but hey, if you don't keep your vehicles long enough, who cares, right?
Just sayin'...
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