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Old 01-15-2014, 02:58 PM   #15
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psw757 -

That is definitely a weird circumstance but I don't see how it can be the toad harness. With the running lights on, the MH powers all of the lights - and yes, for sure the "load" of the Toad bulbs (rear and side marker) is placed on that circuit. However, that is 1 circuit in the MH and not loaded independently to the license plate lights (at least that would be extremely unususal). Further, with the toad (Cool Tech) harness it is appearing just like any other trailer to the MH. Both of your motorhomes undoubtedly have fuses in place to protect in case of too much current draw (any current draw that was enough to melt wires should be well above the threshold to blow a fuse). Long story short, I don't see a suspect bad toad ground as being a candidate culprit. If anything it would seem that a poor/bad ground is going to cause intermittant light failures - but not a situation where too much current is occuring.
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Old 01-15-2014, 08:33 PM   #16
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This is the Donkey from Cool Tech. I don't know where/what the reference is that we "sent out a bunch of harnesses with bad grounds". This is simply not true. The reality is that we have more than 1000 harness on 2007+ Jeep Wranglers and during our 6 year history of this product we have (2) units returned. One of the units had the ground & running wires labeled backwards. It was correctable in the field but an error on our part. The other returned harness was fine. The "issue" with the turn signal/brake signal was in fact a problem with some of the Mopar (OEM) harnesses and many owners opted to purchase the Cool Tech harness instead. The Cool Tech harness never had this problem. I don't know if MOPAR has corrected this problem yet or not.
You may have only had two harnesses returned but when I had problems with mine, your customer service was no help. I was told that my installation was the source of my problems. After uninstalling and reinstalling the harness 3 times and multiple calls to your customer service, I finally spent several hours checking every wire in the harness and found a faulty ground. I am in manufacturing myself and realize that mistakes are made and shipped but the fact that you took no responsibility nor offered any useful assistance to the point of blaming me for the defect in your product, you have lost me as a return customer. When I buy a product that is advertised as plug and play, I do not expect to have to " correct in the field" the product.
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:16 PM   #17
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Roger, I am very sorry for your experience and I sincerely apologize if anything about your competence was challenged. The Cool Tech business is comprised of me (chief cook and bottle washer), my 19 year old daughter (returns phone calls and answers when she can) and my wife (shipping). If you spoke to someone about the problem - it was me. It is not my style to cast fault or blame on a customer - rather I am much more interested to solve the problem. There is no one else to blame but me. So you have my apologies once again.

Regarding "construction" of the harnesses - I personally make them all. I have never entrusted this to anyone else.

I can truthfully say that I do not recall our conversation (sorry) nor do I ever remember an exchange with a customer where there was any audible agitation. I am HAPPY to replace any defective harness - but the reality is that when people have trouble (and they DO!) it is AFTER they have installed the harness. So, replacing a harness as a "shot" at correcting the problem is a burden for the customer - who has to remove one harness to install another one. If we had any kind of measureable failure rate internal to the harnesses - I suppose this may be a plausible strategy. But, literally 95%+ of the anomalies have been in the wiring of the connector at the front of the Jeep that the user/installer performs (maybe at fault 20% of the time). The MOST common problem (75% of the times anomalies occur)is the "mapping" of the wires to the tow vehicle - where there is something "non-standard" in the tow vehicle or customer-chosen umbilical cord. To further aide our customers, about 6 months ago we began incorporating a Trouble Shooting Guide - the purpose of which is to help customers efficiently diagnose the problem area.

In short, if there's an anomaly and we are too quick just to replace the harness (easy for us) the overwhelming odds are that we cause the customer extra work and we don't resolve the REAL issue. Sounds like yours was the case where we should have replaced the harness.
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Old 01-16-2014, 09:40 AM   #18
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psw757 -

That is definitely a weird circumstance but I don't see how it can be the toad harness. With the running lights on, the MH powers all of the lights - and yes, for sure the "load" of the Toad bulbs (rear and side marker) is placed on that circuit. However, that is 1 circuit in the MH and not loaded independently to the license plate lights (at least that would be extremely unususal). Further, with the toad (Cool Tech) harness it is appearing just like any other trailer to the MH. Both of your motorhomes undoubtedly have fuses in place to protect in case of too much current draw (any current draw that was enough to melt wires should be well above the threshold to blow a fuse). Long story short, I don't see a suspect bad toad ground as being a candidate culprit. If anything it would seem that a poor/bad ground is going to cause intermittant light failures - but not a situation where too much current is occuring.
Just want to make sure I understand this.

I always assumed that if there was a bad ground on the toad that the issues would arise on the toad potentially and not the coach, is this correct?

It is odd that with previous coach and new coach ( two weeks old) has burned out plate light.

Being that the toad lights function as they should I was just guessing there may be a ground issue but I don't see how that would go back to coach and blow bulbs and melt a wire harness.
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Old 01-16-2014, 09:48 AM   #19
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I always assumed that if there was a bad ground on the toad that the issues would arise on the toad potentially and not the coach, is this correct?
I would agree. In brief, what I'm saying is there is no specific correlation between a tow vehicle's license plate lights and that tow vehicle's trailer power for a trailer/toad. Further, ALL of a tow vehicle's voltage carrying wires (LEFT, RIGHT, running lights, etc) are protected by a fuse. The fundamental function of a fuse is to prevent an over-draw of current on those wires. Melted wire insulation can either be from a current over-draw (in which case the fuse should blow) or from an external-to-the-wire heat source (the heat from a bulb, for example).
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:39 PM   #20
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the mopar cable uses isolation relays to disconnect the jeeps electronics. When you plug the tow cable to the tow vehicle it sense 12v from the tow vehicle and energizes the set of relays in the the mopar cable. This seperates the jeep electrical and protects the factory circuits, so no back feeding going on. The tow vehicles controls all the function of the rear lights assembly... blinking, brake lights, hazards etc.... these signals come from the tow vehicle and the Jeeps rear lights acts like another set of rear lights parallel to the RV rear lights. It mimicks exactly like the rear light of the tow vehicle... as it should. There is a reason why the Mopar cable is more expensive than cooltechs. If you look at the cable that section that looks like little sac... those are a set of relays that isolates Jeep wiring and RV wiring... the 2 plugs seperates the signal from the 2 vehicle. Mopar did a great job engineering the cable.

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Old 01-18-2014, 04:21 PM   #21
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A Blue Ox BX-8869 completely bypasses the vehicle wiring. About $69 and eliminates all issues.
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Old 01-20-2014, 11:09 AM   #22
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This simple fix supplied by Cooltech solved the problem. Just pull the M1 fuse.

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Old 01-21-2014, 06:20 AM   #23
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Pulling this fuse corrects what issue?
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Old 01-21-2014, 06:40 AM   #24
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I used Tow Daddy on my 2011 Jeep Wrangler, works great so easy to install. Plug and play.
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:54 AM   #25
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Pulling this fuse corrects what issue?
The blinkers stop when brakes are applied, that issue.
Our coach uses the same bulb for braking as it does for blinking, as does the jeep. With the M1 fuse in place, the blinkers would stop blinking when the brakes were applied coming to a stop. As soon as I let of the brakes the blinkers would resume. Pull the M1 fuse and the problem goes away.
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Old 01-22-2014, 11:36 AM   #26
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The blinkers stop when brakes are applied, that issue.
Our coach uses the same bulb for braking as it does for blinking, as does the jeep. With the M1 fuse in place, the blinkers would stop blinking when the brakes were applied coming to a stop. As soon as I let of the brakes the blinkers would resume. Pull the M1 fuse and the problem goes away.
I see, ok.

I'm still trying to trouble shoot whether or not this system can back feed to the coach causing bulbs on coach to burn out.

Cooltech owner doesn't seem to think so but I've had two license plate bulbs blow out on two different coaches. Could just be crap luck, could be connected.

Everything on jeep works in conjunction with what coach lights are doing. Not sure what I could do other than hooking all up go through all the lights and signals and send a brake signal to jeep and then examine all my bulbs on coach to see if something blows again.

Minor but frustrating!
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:04 AM   #27
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the mopar cable uses isolation relays to disconnect the jeeps electronics. When you plug the tow cable to the tow vehicle it sense 12v from the tow vehicle and energizes the set of relays in the the mopar cable. This seperates the jeep electrical and protects the factory circuits, so no back feeding going on. The tow vehicles controls all the function of the rear lights assembly... blinking, brake lights, hazards etc.... these signals come from the tow vehicle and the Jeeps rear lights acts like another set of rear lights parallel to the RV rear lights. It mimicks exactly like the rear light of the tow vehicle... as it should. There is a reason why the Mopar cable is more expensive than cooltechs. If you look at the cable that section that looks like little sac... those are a set of relays that isolates Jeep wiring and RV wiring... the 2 plugs seperates the signal from the 2 vehicle. Mopar did a great job engineering the cable.
Redridge ... thanks for your post. I have been trying to figure out which harness to order for a new 2014 Jeep Rubicon and think this solves it for me. I noticed the kit comes with a cable that runs all the way to the coach's 7-pin connector. I am used to having a connection plug on the front of the toad, but I guess that is not needed with this set-up. I am now researching the best place to order for the lowest price (considering shipping). Any suggestions?

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Old 01-26-2014, 07:09 PM   #28
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Redridge ... thanks for your post. I have been trying to figure out which harness to order for a new 2014 Jeep Rubicon and think this solves it for me. I noticed the kit comes with a cable that runs all the way to the coach's 7-pin connector. I am used to having a connection plug on the front of the toad, but I guess that is not needed with this set-up. I am now researching the best place to order for the lowest price (considering shipping). Any suggestions?

Steve
Any jeep dealers are within 20-40 bucks from each other $150-$190... I would download the installation instruction so you know whats involved, its a bit of a pain... but well worth it. Not having a plug to mount on a baseplate is a huge plus.... esp if you are off roading. The plug will just be tucked behind the front grill. I use the currie baseplate... very clean and acts like a skid plate.

cheapest I found... you want the 2007-2014 Jeep Wrangler Tow Vehicle Wiring Harness - 82211156ab
http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/...wd=&origin=pla

here is the install...
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...82211156ab.pdf

my base/skid plate...
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