CR-V Battery / Fuse questions

[Winemaker2]

I tow a 2005 CR-V behind my MH. I have had intermittent problems w/ dead battery after a long day towing.
I have read posts in the forum that many CR-V owners towing having similar experiences and a recommendation to pull the 7.5A Radio/Accy fuse #8. The owner manual advises to pull the 15A Fr Accy Power Socket Fuse #18.
I understand these must be done after the recommended warm-up / tranny prep procedure.
I have installed a direct batt'y wired power outlet w/ fuse for my supplemental braking system and have run it off a rechargeable battery pack and still had the dead battery issue. I'm assuming there are parasitic loads with the key turned to Accy position.
Pulling & replacing fuses often is a PITA and I plan to wire a fuse in series w/ a switch to make life easier. My questions:

1) Does anyone know for sure what the items powered and parasitic amperage draw is for circuit #8 ? (assuming radio is turned off)

2) Does anyone know for sure what the items powered and parasitic amperage draw is for circuit #18 ? (assuming nothing plugged into the power socket)

3) After pulling the radio fuse to try (unsuccessfully) to get an amperage reading I was surprised to find the radio operated immediately when I started the car - I expected to have to enter the code and reset the time, etc - Is there a separate radio memory feed? - Fuse? Fuse#?

Thanks in advance

[njs42]

I can tow three days before the battery dies. Are you sure your battery is in good condition. Perhaps a short. While I do not have specific answers to your questions about fuses I am installing a set up that charges the CR-V battery from the MH battery as we drive. It will also charge while you are plugged in for the night. It will solve my problem.

[Winemaker2]

It has happened after a couple of days with me even with a fairly new battery. I have completely separate tail/stop lights run from the MH so it's not that either. It isn't consistent and I see others report the same discrepancy. There are enough folks with the problem, and Honda recommends pulling the #18 fuse so there must be something to it.

I agree your solution is probably the best - I was looking for an easier way out is all.
Are you installing a purchased isolator as part of the hook-up?

[Stevegd007]

I too have had dead battery after towing my Honda for awhile. I found this item and began to use it...NO MORE DEAD battery. No fuse's to pull..no worries...just go an have fun. Suggest to give this a try: LSL Toad Charge Battery Charger

[Winemaker2]

Thanks Steve - I assume this is similar to what Norm has for a set up. I may end up that approach - just thought the switched fuse might be simpler, cheaper and just as effective. I am still curious about the parasitic loads - I guess that's the engineer in me - like to know what's behind it all.

[Stevegd007]

Well the price has gradually gone up...ya who would expect that! Current price is way more than I paid. But bottom line...I found it more than helpful, it is a great help!

[njs42]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Winemaker2 It has happened after a couple of days with me even with a fairly new battery. I have completely separate tail/stop lights run from the MH so it's not that either. It isn't consistent and I see others report the same discrepancy. There are enough folks with the problem, and Honda recommends pulling the #18 fuse so there must be something to it. I agree your solution is probably the best - I was looking for an easier way out is all. Are you installing a purchased isolator as part of the hook-up?

I am installing the same LSL device as mentioned. I think you know more about this than I do---haven't heard anything about pulling fuses.