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Old 11-07-2015, 10:10 PM   #1
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CRV accessory power socket

The information in my 2010 CRV manual on page 123 relating to the power sockets rate all three accessory sockets at 10 amps. The schematic of the fuse panel on page 401 rates all three accessory sockets at 15 amps. Which is it? Many of you on this forum allude to using these sockets to power your Roadmaster, Brake Buddy or similar auxiliary brake unit so how is it working for you? Iím just getting started setting up the CRV for towing. Iíve been towing a 2001 Civic since new and wired in a separate socket to power my brake. I am wondering now if it was necessary. Thanks
Stan
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Old 11-07-2015, 10:54 PM   #2
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10 Amp outlet is more than sufficient to power any portable braking device.

My Patriot for example has a Max 2A draw.
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Old 11-08-2015, 05:55 AM   #3
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Stan-

Here are two other points to consider for any 12V-socket-powered installation:

1) how are the sockets powered when the key is in the tow position?

2) can the socket retain the plug securely?

Also, if you haven't run across them yet, there are some posts about the capacity of the CRV batteries. The discussion revolves around the necessity (or not) for a charge line from the coach, and the method to install a larger battery in the CRV. You may want to look at those posts to stimulate your thinking.

Mark
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Old 11-08-2015, 08:05 AM   #4
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The Honda Owners Manual says to disconnect the fuse that supplies power to the aux 12 volt sockets. If you follow their requirements you won't have any power at those sockets while towing.

I don't know what modifying the wiring to provide a charge line from the MH or installing a larger battery will do to the warranty, but I advise you to check it out.

I do have some concerns about installing a charge line from MH to CRV. Any charge line to a battery needs voltage regulation determined from the battery it charges. I don't know how that is being done.

I have a, new to me, 2011 CRV with an eight year/120,000 mile Honda warranty. It has some specific requirements. I don't know what it says about the wiring/battery changes some have done since I don't need those outlets while towing. Just be careful with any modifications.

Good Luck!
Wil
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Old 11-08-2015, 11:55 AM   #5
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Stan,
I should have mentioned the battery issue in my first reply,

The battery in the CRV Is very much undersized. The standard OEM Group 51 battery is in the order of 400 CCA which is not much bigger than a good Lawn Tractor battery. On the newer models particularly with Nav etc, the battery will go dead in 2-3 hours of towing. Honda says to pull a fuse for towing but when you do that (which by the way you need to be double jointed to do) the Aux Power plugs go dead.
So, the solution is to replace the battery with a Group 24, 850-900 CCA battery which is standard in the Oddesy. The switch is very simple. Just go to your Honda dealer and purchase the two piece battery tray which will cost under $20. See attached photo for the P/N's.
Then buy a group 24 battery and install it in the same way as the OEM. NAPA had an 850 CCA for around $140 if I recall.

Now, you might also want to consider a charge line from the MH to the CRV battery. This too is pretty simple and is very common on most toad set ups. It does exactly what the term implies, keeps the toad battery charged from the MH battery while under tow.
A wire is run from the Live side of the master switch in the MH engine compartment, thru a 20A inline fuse, to the Aux Pin on your 7Pin connector. I believe it is the 1 O'clock position looking at the open side of the socket.
Now, from the corresponding pin on the toad side, run a wire thru another 20A fuse and connect to the Positive side of the battery on the CRV.

You can, if you wish, add a diode in this line to direct current from the MH to the toad but IMHO, it's not necessary. The voltage from the MH to the toad will always be higher when the toad is not charging and therefore the current flow will be to the toad anyway. I don't have a diode and it works fine. The important thing is the fuses. You can use a resetable circuit breaker instead of a fuse which will reset on its own. Your choice.

By making these simple changes, you will now be able to run ALL Day long and arrive at your destination without having to boost a dead battery on your toad AND, not have to worry about pulling fuses etc. I have run for two days without unhooking the toad and just starting the car for a few minutes in the AM to lube the transmission.
The CRV is a great car and a really great toad. It just has a battery problem.

P/S, one other thing about towing, if you look at your manual, it says you should change the transmission fluid every 18000 miles. I do mine every year.
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Old 11-08-2015, 11:58 AM   #6
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Sorry, here's the photo. My apologies for the upside down pic, for some reason between this forum and Apple, the world is upside down.
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Old 11-08-2015, 12:15 PM   #7
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Stan-

Is your Intruder built on a Ford F53 or a Workhorse chassis?

Mark
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Old 11-08-2015, 08:37 PM   #8
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Thank you all. I have been out in the garage all day trying to stuff this old body where even a young body shouldn’t go. I managed to wire in a fuse switch for the #34 fuse and a hot socket for the brake but it wasn’t fun.
Dennis: I wired in a heavy duty socket using 12 guage wire and put in a 15 amp fuse. I looked at the way I did it on the Civic and I didn’t go to the battery after all. Instead I tied into an unused hot lead in the fuse panel. I wired the CRV the same. Worked for me for 15 years on the Civic. If your Patriot only uses 2 amps maybe it’s time for me to upgrade.
Mark: The existing sockets are dead unless the ignition is on. Acc doesn’t power them up unless I screwed up testing. The existing sockets are good and tight and so is the one I installed. It would be nice to have a charge line to the battery but right now I only have a 4 wire set up for the toad lights.
Wil: My new to me 2010 CRV is probably like your 2011. When I read the manual I thought, no problem, just pull the fuse. After today I would like to sit down with the engineer and have a chat. There is no warranty on my CRV so I don’t have to worry, I can do anything I want with it. But instead today I did a bunch of stuff I didn’t want to do. I still have a baseplate I have to install and after watching the blue OX installation instructions I’m dreading it. I installed the one on my Civic but it was a bunch easier. If I was smart I’d have someone else so it but they would probably charge me over $500. Difference is they would have it completed in 4 or 5 hours where as it will probably take me 2 or 3 days.
Dennis: I have read a lot about the batteries recently so I went out to the garage to see what I have. The previous owner replaced it not too long ago but installed another group 51. This one has 550 cca. Not much better. I’ll see how it does. I would love to have a charge line but I’m all set up for 4 wire. Never had a problem with the Civic and towed it long hours. The Civic was pretty basic compared to the CRV. This one is an EXL but no navigation so maybe it wont be an issue. Preventative maintenance is the key to the longevity of any auto so I’ll sure keep up with changing the transmission as well as everything else.
Mark: My Intruder is on the Ford F53 chassis, 460 engine and horrid gas mileage. Strong engine though. It’s getting old, I’m getting old and I’m married to an old woman but she’s still going strong like my intruder. It’s been a good rig all in all.
Stan
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Old 11-08-2015, 08:54 PM   #9
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Hang in there Stan, remember, we are all in this together. There's only one way out.
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