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Old 12-16-2013, 10:29 PM   #15
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thanks scott
that explains it our toad is a saturn and there is nothing on while towing
but we are going to install a smi stay & play brake so that might draw
power from battery ? will need to lock in to that
thanks john
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Old 12-17-2013, 01:02 AM   #16
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thanks scott that explains it our toad is a saturn and there is nothing on while towing but we are going to install a smi stay & play brake so that might draw power from battery ? will need to lock in to that thanks john
We have a Saturn also. Instruction manual says to pull a fuse to keep battery from going down.
We mounted a switch attached to the fuse. Much easier. And can be used as an antitheft device also.
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Old 12-17-2013, 07:17 AM   #17
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We tow a Ford C-max. Battery goes dead at about three hours. We keep a charger in the RV and it only takes a second. I think the issue is the Nav system. There doesn't appear to be any way to turn it off.

I like the idea of the trickle charge method but not sure if I am mechanically talented enough to do it correctly.
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:35 AM   #18
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Clearing the air

This thread has been a great conversation on charge lines, and towing battery draw. You can tell that there are lots of people with great knowledge experience. I'd like to add a few things to attempt to clear the air.

Towed Vehicle Battery Life:
Most towed vehicle's batteries can go 1-2 days of towing before they need to be recharged by letting the engine run for 5-10 minutes. The caveat is that many of the new vehicles on the market have a high constant current draw on the battery when the key is in the towed position. This is still the case in many vehicles even if you pull fuses or run directly off of the battery with something like our 12V Direct to Battery Kit.

Though the car manufacturers are well intentioned when they make a towed vehicle 4 flat towable with new technologies, like the owner of the C-Max described above, there is still current draw.

Why the Towed Battery Charger was Created:
One of the great things about working in the RV industry is that we meet so many talented people from so many different backgrounds. Even though we've been in the industry for 20 years starting with the Brakebuddy, we often learn new lessons from our customers about better ways to do things or new ways of seeing them. We love to grow, so this is one of our favorite parts of working with our customers.

As you've seen from previous posts on this thread, there are people that know the meaning of words like "pigtail", gauge wire, bi-directional isolator, BAT pole, etc. This is awesome, but most people don't know what these terms means or what to do with them. We attempted to create a turn-key product. Just like the TVs we have and use daily, it's nice to know what a PCB is or that they use cloud technology, but the reality is I just need to know that it works. That's the goal of the Towed Battery Charger. To take something that may be complicated and package it as simple as possible.

The magic, if you will, is that we also provide an LED indicator that tells you if the product is working or not. Without it, there is no way to tell if a charge line is even working with peace of mind.

I hope this helps. Thanks for letting us be a part of the conversation! I look forward to your feedback.

-RVibrake Support
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:03 AM   #19
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T
The magic, if you will, is that we also provide an LED indicator that tells you if the product is working or not. Without it, there is no way to tell if a charge line is even working with peace of mind.

I hope this helps. Thanks for letting us be a part of the conversation! I look forward to your feedback.

-RVibrake Support
Thanks for the explanation. I believe you have a good product for those who need it. I was an educator for 35 years because I firmly believe education is not only empowering, but enriching. I am richer because I learned to DIY. I test my system periodically with a multimeter, a very useful tool in an RV -- or a house.
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Old 12-17-2013, 01:16 PM   #20
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Thanks for the explanation. I believe you have a good product for those who need it. I was an educator for 35 years because I firmly believe education is not only empowering, but enriching. I am richer because I learned to DIY. I test my system periodically with a multimeter, a very useful tool in an RV -- or a house.
Bob that makes perfect sense. Happy RVing!
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Old 12-17-2013, 04:54 PM   #21
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i am using a 5 line flat signal cable. among lines, 4 are for signals and 1 is dedicated to battery charging. it didn't cost a thing and does the job perfectly.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:01 AM   #22
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Thanks to the RVibrake support team for explaining the use of the product much better than I could. Even if sometimes there seems to be a simple fix, some of us are without the means, physically or otherwise, to accomplish the task. A simple bolt-on solution is best for us. I thank RVibrake and other companies for considering our limitations and giving us the tools and products to make our trip down the road easier and more enjoyable.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:34 AM   #23
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Kustom,
pull a certain fuse to eliminate battery draw while the vehicle is in tow. Well, pulling and re-inserting that fuse sucked dearly.
Scott

Try a fuse switch, eliminates pulling and reinserting the fuse. Works like a charm.

Roadmaster Inc. - Tow Bars, Braking Systems & RV Accessories
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:28 AM   #24
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Not sure I understand the need for a fuse or breaker at both the toad battery and the RV. Do you install the RV fuse right at the chassis battery or near the 6 or 7 wire outlet plug ?
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:49 AM   #25
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Not sure I understand the need for a fuse or breaker at both the toad battery and the RV. Do you install the RV fuse right at the chassis battery or near the 6 or 7 wire outlet plug ?
The breakers are to protect the wire. (and vehicles) Any wire tapped directly to the battery post has no protection from a short circuit, overheating, or fire. Putting the CB close to each battery ensures that as much of the wires, trailer connections, connectors, etc. are protected from shorts.
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