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Old 03-25-2016, 11:10 AM   #15
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Also, beware, in the event that you unlock the arms on the towbar, or pull the pins, there is nothing to stop the toad from rolling forward as the arms compress. It could get a little cramped standing between the coach and the toad.
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Old 03-25-2016, 11:10 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by 69Stang View Post
So what is the proper way when disconnecting? Release the pins from the base plate connector first? Or unlock the bars first? I have a Roadmaster EZ5 base plate and Roadmaster 5250 towbar. I have yet to flat tow mine, but will next month.
I have Blue Ox, but I would imagine the procedure is the same. Unlock the bars first. This is supposed to relieve the tension on the pin so it can be removed. As others have noted, however, there can still be a lot of pressure on the pin that makes it very difficult, if not impossible to remove. I have used a procedure in the past that i will not use again having watched the video above. But, unless you stop on really level ground, there will be some binding that can make removing the pins a bit testy (at least on Blue Ox). I will try the method in the video on our next trip.

On edit: OK, all you guys type faster than I do. But, I see we all agree.
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Old 03-25-2016, 11:19 AM   #17
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Dennis45,
Thanks for the link to the video. That was very informative. I will try that on the next trip if things get locked up.

I have only one little quibble with that video, however. The very first time I hooked up I put the safety cables and the electrical hookup on top of our towbar thinking this would keep everything off the ground. A few blocks away from the storage unit I looked in the rear view camera only to see the toad moving back and forth on the towbar. When I pulled over I saw that one of the safety cables was coiled around one of the handles which was keeping it from locking. I have put all cabling under the towbar ever since. In the video the presenter puts the safety cables under the towbar, but he puts the electrical connection over the top. I will continue to put mine under the towbar. I have never had an issue since I adopted this practice.
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Old 03-25-2016, 11:24 AM   #18
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Also, beware, in the event that you unlock the arms on the towbar, or pull the pins, there is nothing to stop the toad from rolling forward as the arms compress. It could get a little cramped standing between the coach and the toad.
My memory is not always the best, but I swear that the Blue Ox manual clearly states to engage the emergency brake on the towed vehicle before doing any disconnect. At least that is my practice.

Otherwise, as you point out there could be a serious situation with the toad getting loose and rolling forward on you.
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Old 03-25-2016, 11:29 AM   #19
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I have Blue Ox, but I would imagine the procedure is the same. Unlock the bars first. This is supposed to relieve the tension on the pin so it can be removed. As others have noted, however, there can still be a lot of pressure on the pin that makes it very difficult, if not impossible to remove. I have used a procedure in the past that i will not use again having watched the video above. But, unless you stop on really level ground, there will be some binding that can make removing the pins a bit testy (at least on Blue Ox). I will try the method in the video on our next trip.

On edit: OK, all you guys type faster than I do. But, I see we all agree.
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Take a time out and view the video I posted. You should be unlocking the levers first and Then removing the pins.
Thanks for the info. I'm unable to view the video where am I currently. I'll take a look when I get home.
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Old 03-25-2016, 11:33 AM   #20
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Dennis,
Thanks for the link to the video. That was very informative. I will try that on the next trip if things get locked up.

I have only one little quibble with that video, however. The very first time I hooked up I put the safety cables and the electrical hookup on top of our towbar thinking this would keep everything off the ground. A few blocks away from the storage unit I looked in the rear view camera only to see the toad moving back and forth on the towbar. When I pulled over I saw that one of the safety cables was coiled around one of the handles which was keeping it from locking. I have put all cabling under the towbar ever since. In the video the presenter puts the safety cables under the towbar, but he puts the electrical connection over the top. I will continue to put mine under the towbar. I have never had an issue since I adopted this practice.
Bob
Bob, you bring up an interesting point. That scenario has crossed my mind more than once so when I lay the umbilical cord I make sure it is behind the lever thinking it will fall away from the lever rather than become tangled into it.
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Old 03-25-2016, 12:27 PM   #21
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All my safety cables and electric connections go under the tow bars. I put a bungee cord around it all to keep them from accidently dragging on the pavement. One small bungee does it.
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Old 03-25-2016, 12:31 PM   #22
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All my safety cables and electric connections go under the tow bars. I put a bungee cord around it all to keep them from accidently dragging on the pavement. One small bungee does it.
I like this idea. Thanks.
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Old 03-25-2016, 01:26 PM   #23
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All good info.. I've been towing my Civic with a non-collapsible tow bar for years. I just purchased a used Blue Ox to use for our "New to us" Saturn Vue. This should make connect and disconnect just a little easier.
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Old 03-26-2016, 03:06 AM   #24
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When we unhook our routine is to get in the car, pull it forward a little(releases the tension), put on the brake(so it doesn't roll anywhere), unlock the bar, remove the pins. All cables are under the tow bar and we use a Protect-A-Tow that goes under everything, works great.
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Old 03-29-2016, 10:10 AM   #25
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Dennis thanks for video
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Old 03-29-2016, 10:19 AM   #26
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Dennis thanks for video
You're welcome, I trust it helped answer some questions. I thought it did a good job of explaining the system.
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Old 03-29-2016, 06:56 PM   #27
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Here is some good information on binding vs non-binding releases. Not all non-binding are actually non-binding. I went with the Blue Ox BX7420 Avail Towbar which is supposedly non-binding. I'll find out in 4 weeks.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/rv-to...uide-a/599.htm
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Old 03-30-2016, 02:33 PM   #28
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The biggest problem I have with my Roadmaster Falcon 2 is when the Toad is pulling away downhill so it does't do any good to release the levers and the pins bind up.

I always have the Toad in park and parking brake on before releasing levers or pulling pins. I have had experience many years ago with trying to deal with the momentum of several thousand pounds moving at even slow speeds - a 200 pound person doesn't have much influence.

If the levers won't release, I pull the toad forward to put pressure on the arm and set the parking brake to keep the pressure on, and then release the arm. If I have a cooked approach I might have to do this a second time after the first arm releases. Once the arms release, the pins slide right out.
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