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Old 02-15-2008, 03:45 PM   #15
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I used the Blue-Ox kit and I recommend it.
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Old 02-15-2008, 03:45 PM   #16
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Oh, yes. I will use universal sockets but I always solder all connections along with heat shrink to cover. The sockets I was looking at in pep boys has a grounding tab on the housing.
The remco kit I installed in the old escort had a three wire ribbon to run through the car. They were using the car as a ground. I ended up running a seperate wire for ground to the magnetic lights which brightened them considerably. Not a big deal as I have spools upon spools of thhn here but it would've saved me time if they had included a 4-wire ribbon. One of the few times I installed and buttoned things up without testing. It is always the way
I have had boat and equipment trailers, and TT's and am familiar with the wiring and problems. Most problems are from bad grounds anyway.
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Old 02-15-2008, 03:56 PM   #17
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I have never heard of a diode application for tail lights messing up the operation of the tail lights from the car vs. the motorhome. That's what a diode does. Sends the electricity one way only.

Check with some of the key manufacturers, like Blue Ox. They should have the best information.

If installed correctly I do not see any risk in the car's electrical operation. For example, when I wired my HHR, I purposely ran the MH wiring to the back of the car and tapped into the wiring just in front of the tail lights. No problem.

I can see if one taps into the wiring harness too far north (in front) of the car this may cause problems, as one might not be aware of where the wiring might branch to.
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Old 02-15-2008, 05:59 PM   #18
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I have the 4 door model --- don't know if the tail lights are different or not. The factory light on mine was more toward the inside of the car (looking at the left tail light from the rear -- the light was more to the right of the tail light assembly. I installed the new lights to the left. Like I said -- just make sure that there is room in the body sheet metal to accept the new light socket that will stick out some inside of the trunk area.
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Old 02-15-2008, 06:03 PM   #19
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I will also add that the Roadmaster kit is a 4 wire setup and each bulb socket is grounded. I used the ground posts that the lights in the car use now. They included the crimp on rings to use for the ground wire.
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Old 02-15-2008, 06:56 PM   #20
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My lights are up on the pillar so are a bit different:
Picture of the rear of a focus like it here:
http://media.automotive.com/evox/sti...006/3ha/44.jpg
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Old 02-16-2008, 05:04 PM   #21
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Your tail light is different from mine. On mine, I had quite a bit more room where the red lens was to do the modification. Picture of mine is here:

www.conquestauto.com/catalog/focus.jpg
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Old 02-18-2008, 03:49 PM   #22
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I used the Blue Ox extra bulb and wiring kit on my Wrangler. Its ture that the extra bulbs were not as bright as the originals, but a little aluminum foil (bright side out) behind the bulbs made all the difference in the world.
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Old 02-19-2008, 03:19 PM   #23
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I have never seen anyone comment on replacing a burned out bulb in an add on bulb system. When the socket is sealed in with RTV or epoxy how hard is it to remove if a bulb needs to be replaced?
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Old 02-19-2008, 03:35 PM   #24
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Hi Everyone

I have a add on bulb system on my 2001 Cherokee.The bulbs are easy to replace. I'm glad I went with that system
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Old 02-19-2008, 03:48 PM   #25
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by wilanddij:
I used the Blue Ox extra bulb and wiring kit on my Wrangler. Its ture that the extra bulbs were not as bright as the originals, but a little aluminum foil (bright side out) behind the bulbs made all the difference in the world. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I've done a few of the Blue Ox BX8869 installs and always find the bulb very bright. It is important to ground each tail light as per instructions as not doing so / or having a poor ground would give you dim or no light.
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Old 02-19-2008, 04:01 PM   #26
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I've got a Jeep Wrangler with after market LED tail lights, so I had no choice but use the diodes. Instalation was easy and I'm very happy with the results.
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Old 02-19-2008, 04:50 PM   #27
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To seal things up butyl rubber is great stuff. Easy to remove and watertight. I used to use it,and still do, on outdoor coax connections. Get a roll at your rv dealer. Same stuff you use around windows and as a gasket for roof vents etc..in the rv. Winnebago (and probably many others) also uses for waterproofing where the wires exit the body in the taillamps. It should work with holding in a loose socket as there is not that much heat on that area. It would be a better solution than some of these adhesives. Due to the carcinogenic vapors from various over the counter "do all" adhesives Read the labels before you use some of these sealant/adhesives; esp. in a closed in area like a car where you will be breathing the fumes for days/weeks, possibly more until they reach a full cure.
If the hole is cut properly and carefully you will not need any sealant.

Here is a picture:
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/c...ants/48463.htm
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Old 02-19-2008, 05:09 PM   #28
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ctcamper:
To seal things up butyl rubber is great stuff. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Agreed, butyl is very good and very inexpensive. Great when you install a grab rail, an awning bracket and such. A whole 20' roll is about $5.00. This thread is however is entitled "Diodes or extra bulb". I would not consider using butyl to secure a bulb receptacle in a tail light. Others might, I would not.


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