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Old 06-27-2010, 07:00 AM   #15
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The steering lock is up under this alluminum casting. Unlike the JK directions above, mine was simply screwed down (screwed up?) with 2 tiny tamper proof torx screws.

I'd guess you could simply drop this down and take out the spring and be done (the spring pushes the lock bar up to lock the wheel, the mechanism pulls it down to unlock) but I didn't want to take any chances and pulled it all apart and removed the lock bar.
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Old 06-27-2010, 07:03 AM   #16
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So, first the switch comes off. Disconnect the 2 connectors, they go in where my hand is.

Screw is out in the pic, it goes thru the copper part in the top right.
As in the directions, be very careful not to break the lil plastic stick.

The ignition lock needs to come out about a half inch, not all the way. Insert the key and turn it to run, then use a tool to push up the release tab and it will pop out. You can see the square release tab in the pic in the previous post.
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Old 06-27-2010, 07:06 AM   #17
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Then unscrew the casting and drop it down, It will be held by a cablem but will drop plenty far enough.

CAREFUL! There is a tiny alluminum part that sits in a recess and works the cable thing. It's important, don't lose it.

In this pic you can also see the spring that pushes the lock tab up to lock the wheel.
The spring is going to be discarded.
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Old 06-27-2010, 07:09 AM   #18
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once all that is out of the way, the white plastic thing will drop out. Here's a pic of it on the bench. the alluminum shaft needs to be pulled out, then the lock tab can be removed and discarded, then put the shaft back in.

The fit of the shaft is a little tricky, and there is a spring loaded brass colored peice that needs to be paid attention to.
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Old 06-27-2010, 07:13 AM   #19
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Reassemble in reverse.
Pop the white plastic part in, then push in the ignition lock. You may need to rotate the alluminum guts on the white plastic thing to align with the lock so it will all fit and the lock will pop all the way in.

Then put the alluminum block in place and screw it down. Pay attention to that little alluminum piece, make sure it's in it's hole and pointing in the right direction.

Then pop the switch on from the right and screw it down and plug in the wires.

Then put the battery cable back on and make sure everything works before buttoning up the shoud and lower dash.
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Old 06-28-2010, 05:55 AM   #20
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JimM,

What a guy. You are our new hero. Thank you for starting this thread to begin with. Thank you ever so much for documenting what you did and posting the pics and explanation. We will be able to do this too now. Thanks again.
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Old 06-28-2010, 06:46 AM   #21
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Thank you Donna.
Remember your 07 is a JK, not a TJ like mine, and will more closely match up to the directions posted by srx-6 in post 10.
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Old 04-26-2014, 04:43 PM   #22
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Spot On

Quote:
Originally Posted by srx-6 View Post
Jim
I also would like to disable the steering wheel lock on my 2008 Wrangler. I found this on the JK forum but I have not tried to do it yet.

Quote from JK Forum.com
I tow my JK a lot behind my MH. It is more of a PITA with the JK than it was with my TJ since i have to remember to pull the fuse and reconnect it every time i tow. I looked at various alternatives (battery disconnect, hot wire from MH, doing nothing, etc) but decided that the best alternative was to disconnect the steering wheel lock. That way, when i tow, i hook up, lock the doors and tow away - no key in the ignition and no fuses to pull.

My friend did it a week ago and I just completed my project this afternoon.

It is a half day project and requires some drilling and nimble fingers. Here are the steps - i have some photos if there is interest.

1. Pull out the lower kick panel pulling from the bottom.
2. Pull out the next kick panel pulling from the top - this one is hinged on the bottom.
3. Use a torx screwdriver to remove the 3 torx bolts from under the steering wheel. The first torx is exposed and easy to remove. The other two require a torx dirver 4-5 inches long to reach up into the recessed holes.
4. pull off the lower and upper plastic protective panels over the steering wheel.
5 . disconnect the 3 wiring harnesses using the release tabs where needed.
6. disconnect the tranny cable - the release tab on this one is on top of the connector.
7. Remove the torx bolt holding in the black plastic connection box opposite the keyway (on the left hand side facing front). this is the box that the large wire harness connects to. you will need a short stubby torx to get to this bolt.
8. Gently remove this black plastic connection box. It slides out away from the aluminum housing. be careful not to break the pencil thin plastic pushrod coming out of the end of the aluminum box.
9. now comes the fun part. You have to drill out the 4 rivets holding the aluminum box in place. I used a 1/8" bit and a center punch to start the hole. Note that these are not typical rivets but rather stubs coming out of the upper cast aluminum box that have been rounded over after attaching the bottom plate. I drilled at an angle and left much of the stub in place so that i could use sheet metal screws to reattach the bottom.
10. Gently pull away the lower cover. The metal steering wheel lock and a spring will fall out. There is also a metal plunger with a plastic pushrod in it that goes from the key to the plastic junction box you removed earlier. everything is keyed so that you can only reassemble in one position.
11. After removing the metal steering wheel lock and the spring, you are ready to reassemble.
12. put the metal plunger with the plastic pushrod back onto the lock cylinder. it only goes on one way.
13. put the other end of the pushrod through the hole in the bottom plate and position it back in place.
14. I was able to use 4 sheet metal screws about 3/4" long to reattach the bottom plate. Depending on how much drilling you did, you may have to experiment.
15. carefully position the plastic junction box back on the metal case. Note that this also is keyed and than the long pencil like plastic piece must fit into the hole on this box. this is tied to a microswitch that tells the computer that you have a key in the cylinder.
16. put the torx bolt back in place.
17. reattach the harnesses.
18. Start your car to test all connections. If you did not get the keyways lined up, your car will not start and the key will not return automatically after starting.
19. reattach all plastic trim and you are good to go.

as you can see, this is not real straightforward but in my case, it was worth the effort. Use your own judgment before proceeding!

I inadvertently broke off the thin plastic pushrod. the vehicle will not start without this in place. I was able to cut and grind on a small drill bit the same diameter and install it in place of the plastic pushrod. not something i would recommend unless you have to but it does work.
I have a 2008 Wrangler X Sport Automatic Trans. I just followed the above directions step by step. They are spot on.
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:24 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimM68 View Post
Reassemble in reverse.
Pop the white plastic part in, then push in the ignition lock. You may need to rotate the alluminum guts on the white plastic thing to align with the lock so it will all fit and the lock will pop all the way in.

Then put the alluminum block in place and screw it down. Pay attention to that little alluminum piece, make sure it's in it's hole and pointing in the right direction.

Then pop the switch on from the right and screw it down and plug in the wires.

Then put the battery cable back on and make sure everything works before buttoning up the shoud and lower dash.
Great post Jim
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:44 PM   #24
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While NOT a Jeep, I disabled the steering wheel lock on my 2010 Mizda Miata.

How much different can it be for a Jeep?

Untitled Document

My 2012 Miata does not have a steering wheel lock.

Tim
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Old 12-31-2016, 12:57 PM   #25
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JimM68, worked like a champ
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Old 12-31-2016, 04:46 PM   #26
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Me 2. Not a Jeep, but I disabled the steering lock on my Vue. Hook up, make sure its in "N" and the park brake is off, Lock it up and go.
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Old 01-30-2017, 06:53 PM   #27
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Don't modify your steering lock when all you need is a DUMMY KEY... that is a key without the Electronic Demobilizer... You can get one made at a local True Value Hardware Store or similar establishment... the DUMMY KEY BLANK, at least for a 2006 Wrangler TJ is: Y159, Brand: HY-KO or whatever will fit... now you have a solution and you don't have to destroy your steering lock, unless that is your goal...
Peace be with you and yours...
Gil
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Old 05-18-2017, 03:07 PM   #28
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Another happy camper

Following Jim68's excellent instructions the wheel lock is history! Thanks this might have been tough without the help.

OW
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