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Old 08-08-2016, 07:14 PM   #15
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I won't buy ANYTHING from Harbor Freight. Cheap chinese junk.

jt

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Old 08-08-2016, 07:30 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by harleyjt View Post
I won't buy ANYTHING from Harbor Freight. Cheap chinese junk.
jt
Not me.

I always buy my zip ties there.
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:50 PM   #17
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Expensive lesson!

Harbor Freight products are Chinese Bombs, use once if it works that long and throw away.
Buy American buy quality.
Dr4Film ----- Richard
I tend to agree. and I don't buy anything from Reese, Curt, (Many of the others)....... for the same reason.

I see the Weight Distributing hitches from One of the major Hitch companys sell installed every week sold for $409. Made in China. It looks to be a twin to what HF sells for half that. A real twin right down to the Styrofoam and cardboard used in the packaging.

Many hitch parts I make myself. I am about to make a towbar for the Jeep so I can flat tow it and make a hitch hauler for my honda Scooter for next years trip.

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Not me.
I always buy my zip ties there.
I buy some things like there as well.
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Old 08-08-2016, 08:00 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Easyrider View Post
I looked at many different drop down receivers before purchasing a Roadmaster which is rated for 10000lbs. Most of what I found on the internet were rated for 3500lbs. The Roadmaster costs considerably more than the others, but you get what you pay for. I would not attempt to tow a car with a 3500lb. rated drop receiver.
That's what our RoadMaster drop is rated for also. The older Sterling we have is rated for 6 000 and is the "weakest" link as the receiver and rig is rated for 15,000.
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:47 PM   #19
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Do Not Buy Receivers from Harbor Freight

So when you set up your toad you should do a couple of things. You need a break away switch on your supplemental brake system. You also need to set the break away cable to pull the switch key 6" before the end of the cables. If your tow bar breaks you are going to count on your break away switch to trigger your brake system. You want the brakes ON before the cables snap. That way you are dragging an anchor instead of a toad that is acting like a pendulum, so you can make a controlled stop, a 4,000+ pound pendulum is going to make it VERY hard to control your coach. If the brakes on the toad are not on you are going to use the rear of your coach as a big, expensive bumper with your toad slamming into it (possibly riding up the tow bar) trying to get stopped. That is going to damage not only your toad but your MH and make a controlled stop extremely hard. If you have a DP with a rear radiator you are really going to be upset. Most people have their break away cable set to pull the key when the cables break, at that point it is too late, particularly since most of us are using either 6 or 10,000 pound cables and with no brakes you could drag that toad miles before stopping, swinging from side to side!
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Old 08-09-2016, 12:25 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by DrDaveMA View Post
So when you set up your toad you should do a couple of things. You need a break away switch on your supplemental brake system. You also need to set the break away cable to pull the switch key 6" before the end of the cables. If your tow bar breaks you are going to count on your break away switch to trigger your brake system. You want the brakes ON before the cables snap. That way you are dragging an anchor instead of a toad that is acting like a pendulum, so you can make a controlled stop, a 4,000+ pound pendulum is going to make it VERY hard to control your coach. If the brakes on the toad are not on you are going to use the rear of your coach as a big, expensive bumper with your toad slamming into it (possibly riding up the tow bar) trying to get stopped. That is going to damage not only your toad but your MH and make a controlled stop extremely hard. If you have a DP with a rear radiator you are really going to be upset. Most people have their break away cable set to pull the key when the cables break, at that point it is too late, particularly since most of us are using either 6 or 10,000 pound cables and with no brakes you could drag that toad miles before stopping, swinging from side to side!

Thanks Dave,

That info was a real eye opener for me, never thought of the need to set up that way before.


Now I'm wondering if the OP used a receiver that was of too low a rating???

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Old 08-09-2016, 06:01 AM   #21
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Any pictures of the drop down receiver?
Am I missing something here on this topic. Posters are buying the receiver, don't most if not all motorhomes come with receivers???

At first I was thinking drop down and my mind though dropdown as to ballmount. Thinking who would connect a toad with that. Then i read again and its the coach mounted receiver.

A receiver on the MH is something that MUST be installed, welded and done by a professional.

As always I get awesome information here. Going to go shorten my breakaway line.


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Old 08-09-2016, 06:56 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Mekanic View Post
I tend to agree. and I don't buy anything from Reese, Curt, (Many of the others)....... for the same reason.



I see the Weight Distributing hitches from One of the major Hitch companys sell installed every week sold for $409. Made in China. It looks to be a twin to what HF sells for half that. A real twin right down to the Styrofoam and cardboard used in the packaging.



Many hitch parts I make myself. I am about to make a towbar for the Jeep so I can flat tow it and make a hitch hauler for my honda Scooter for next years trip.







I buy some things like there as well.

I thought Reese was a good product. If not, what is "the best"?


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2015 Jeep Roadmaster AT. tow bar with RVI2 supplemental.

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Old 08-09-2016, 07:21 AM   #23
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I thought Reese was a good product. If not, what is "the best"?


2016 Coachmen Mirada 35 BH
2015 Jeep Roadmaster AT. tow bar with RVI2 supplemental.

Taking in the sight wherever our Trolley takes us...

I did too. Have used Reese products for a number of years.


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Old 08-09-2016, 07:30 AM   #24
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I sold a Curt equalizing hitch that came with my cargo trailer when I purchased the trailer second hand from Craigslist. I always had problems with that hitch not staying in the correct position that it was set at.

I then purchased an Andersen 14K Hitch with a combo ball, 2 inch and 2 5/16 inch. This hitch has been one of the best solid hitches that I have owned.

I highly recommend it.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 08-09-2016, 07:50 AM   #25
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Bruce91, I believe this is what he is referring to.
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:06 AM   #26
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If you want an excellent drop hitch look at the Andersen units.

They are called Rapid Hitches.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:10 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by bruce91 View Post
Am I missing something here on this topic. Posters are buying the receiver, don't most if not all motorhomes come with receivers???

At first I was thinking drop down and my mind though dropdown as to ballmount. Thinking who would connect a toad with that. Then i read again and its the coach mounted receiver.

A receiver on the MH is something that MUST be installed, welded and done by a professional.

As always I get awesome information here. Going to go shorten my breakaway line.


2009 Thor Magellan 36R, Ford ranger w/rampage lift in bed for Harley
Roadmaster falcon2 tow bar, RVI brake
The part that is mounted on the vehicle is a Hitch. That part that's slides into the hitch is a receiver.
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:36 AM   #28
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The part that is mounted on the vehicle is a Hitch. That part that's slides into the hitch is a receiver.

Respectfully I think that's backwards. The receiver hitch is what's on the vehicle. The ball mount slides into the receiver which is the square tubing on the receiver hitch.


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